grey prints

[aner_green]

<p>Hi<br>

I try to print my own 35mm and 120 b&w film with an LPL C7700 enlarger. I use 50mm Schnieder for the 35mm and an 80mm Rodenstock for the medium format. The problem is that every time I print I get grey prints with hardly any contrast no matter what value of magenta or yellow I put in the enlarger. I can see the color changing when I change the magenta for instance but it still doesn't change the contrast of the print. I also tried different types of papers, but with no different results.<br>

Does somebody know if the problem is with the enlarger? lens? papers?<br>

Thanks,<br>

Aner</p>

[joseph_dickerson]

<p>Aner,<br>

There are a number of things that can cause your prints to be gray. The first thing I'd check is the safety of your safe light(s). <br>

How fresh is the paper? Are you processing your own film? Try printing in someone else's darkroom and see if the problem still exists.<br>

Do you have a school close by where the teach traditional darkroom. If yes, you might bribe a student, beer and a pizza will usually do it, to make some prints for you. If the prints are good then the negatives are fine. Just make sure you use a student that knows what they're doing.<br>

Basically you just have to start eliminating variables until you find the culprit.<br>

Let us know how it turns out.<br>

JD</p>

[aner_green]

<p>Thanks Joseph for the fast response<br>

Do you know what is the average lifetime of a pack of papers? I use Ilford's<br>

Do you think there is anything about the enlarger that can cause this problem?<br>

p.s.<br>

I tried to print without safe light both the enlarger's and the darkroom's itself. same results</p>

 

[jon_wilson]

<p>I too am learning the process, but one thing I have learned is that in using a color head, you need to start both magenta and yellow at "0" and make your test strip. If the print is not black enough, then more time or more magenta is needed. I have found that if you are using a normal exposed normal processed negative (depending on the fog base) you would start your Magenta somewhere between 25 to 50 magenta. <br>

I believe there is a chart on the Ilford website for using a color enlarger with Ilford Mulitgrade IV paper. Depending on the color head, it provides you with recommended Y & M settings based on grades 0 through 5.<br>

Hope this helps. It has helped me get a better grasp for printing.....now if I can only find for time to do it.<br>

<br />Jon</p>

[aner_green]

<p>Hi Jon<br>

I have to say that i am pretty experienced with black and white printing. But last time I did it very well was when I was at school. Now I have my own darkroom and an old LPL enlarger so that's why I ask these questions.<br>

It is very frustrating no getting the right contrast for the photo.<br>

If somebody knows what to do, I'll be very grateful<br>

Thanks anyway Jon. you helped me <br>

Aner</p>

[jim_momary]

<p>1. How old is the paper and the chemicals you are using?</p>

<p>2. Any light leaks that might cause fogging? Did you try developing a sheet that was never exposed, straight out of the paepr pack? It should come out close to pure white.</p>

<p>3. What do the negatives look like? Do they have the proper range of contrast and tone?<br>

Can you scan one and play with it in an image program and get a decent looking image/or print?</p>

<p>Jim</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>Also completely fog a sheet, and develop it. If you don't get black black black in 90-120 seconds, something is punk with your developer.</p>

[leicaglow]

You most likely have exposed the paper to white light, unless it is very old.

[chris_waller]

<p>Are the filters engaged? That is, is the white-light lever lifted or not?</p>

[ron_taylor3]

<p>Aner...<br>

I am an old school photographer who has taught B&W photography on many occasions. Lets start at the beginning.<br>

1. The dark room itself: set a timer for 5 minutes, go into the dark room, close the door, turn off all lights and start the timer, when the timer stops, look around, is it really dark, can you see your hands in front of your face? I have used cardboard and black construction plastic to mask out light during my college days.<br>

2. The developer: How old is the developer, Did you follow mixing directions on the developer container?<br>

3. Your safe light: Mix fresh developer, stop, and fix in the trays. Set your timer for 5 minutes again and turn out all lights, including the safe light, pull a sheet of paper out of the middle of the pack, seal the pack up again. Place the paper emulsion side UP on the counter (the emulsion side curls up, you can also test for the emulsion by wetting your lips and place the paper between your lips and close them on the paper, only the emulsion side will stick to your lips). Next, put your keys on the paper and turn on the safe light only for 5 minutes, then develop the paper for 2 minutes, stop for 15 sec. fix for at least 1 minute then turn on the white light. A black or dark gray sheet with the silhouette of the keys says the safe light ain't so safe. <br>

4. Enlarger: With nothing in the film carrier, and a SAFE light, do #3 again with the paper under the enlarger, turn it on for 2 minutes, develop as before. You should have a black sheet of paper with a silhouette of your keys in white.<br>

5. Print paper: Age and heat both can fog paper but it takes quite a bit of either. If you had anything other than white in silhouettes form the keys, the paper is not worth wasting your time with.<br>

Black and white printing can be rewarding and fun, it will become more of a challenge as you get more proficient, IT IS NOT A CHEAP HOBBY. I recommend 1 book for beginners "the Print" by Ansel Adams, you should be able to get it used.<br>

Let me know if this helps.<br>

Enjoy!<br>

Ron Taylor</p>

[kevin_kolosky]

<p>The first question I would have is whether or not you are exposing and developing your film properly.<br>

Generally speaking the amount of exposure controls the low values and the amount of development controls the high values.<br>

Are you sure you are developing your film long enough?</p>