Hasselblad 500c/m

[ian_humphrey]

<p>I am having some problems with the wind on mechanism of my camera after correctly inserting a new roll of film. Both indicators are showing white and am able to take the first shot but sometimes when turning the winding crank on the camera body, altough the shutter cocks the film has not been advanced to the next frame; not always but sometimes. I find that if I rotate the winding crank on the film holder I can sometimes advance to the next frame and the inicator turns white to match the white indicator on the camera body and can fire the shutter; a bit of a pain really. I have a manual that suggests if the rear indicator shows red, removing the film holder, firing the shutter, reattaching the film holder and winding the body crank by one complete turn which would also be an inconvenience. Is this the correct thing to do or do I have some other problem. I thought that it would only be essential to have both indicators showing the same colour at the initial insertion of the film and not half way through the film.<br>

Any suggestions would be appreciated<br>

Ian</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

It sounds like you have a problem with the magazine. The film should always be wound on when you use the camera's wind knob/crank.<br>Try this: remove the magazine, and fire and cock the camera. Does the gear on the back of the camera rotate? It probably will. It's difficult (near impossible) to have that thing not work the way it should and still be able to turn the wind crank.<br>And if so, the magazine needs service, repair or (perhaps better?) replacing.<br><br>Unless you want to make a double exposure, or want to skip a frame, leave a bit of film unexposed, the indicator on the magazine must always be white when you attach the magazine to a camera that is cocked, or red when you attach it to a camera that is in a released and not yet cocked state. It's not just important for the first frame. Always needs be checked when attaching a magazine.

[len_robertson]

<p>Ian - Have you gotten film back from your lab with actual double exposures or overlapping frames, or are you assuming the film isn't advancing properly because the red/white indicator isn't turning white when you advance the film? As I remember, the indicator is a little metal "flag" which is rocked back and forth from red to white by the actual film wind mechanism. I think there is a tiny spring which holds it in position. It is possible either the pivot point for the indicator is sticky with dirt or old lube, or the spring is weak or broken. In a sense it doesn't matter if the film isn't advancing properly or it is just a malfunctioning indicator. It should go to the shop either way. But you may be able to shoot a roll of film or two and ignore the indicator just to test all the other functions of the camera. At least I think this may be a new camera for you and you would like to see some results before having to wait for the magazine to be fixed. If you can find a lab which will do "develop only" that may be a good idea. If the film isn't really advancing, you won't have to pay for prints or scans of overlapped frames.<br>

Len</p>

[ian_humphrey]

<p>Thanks for your response. I have examined the camera body and the cog rotates as it should when the handle is rotated, and I can not see any obvious problem with the film holder. However I have discovered that if the film does not advance when the body winder is rotated if I replace the lens hood and fire the shutter I can then wind the film normally and am ready for the next shot after I remove the lens hood. I did wonder if a shot of wd40 on the film holde cog might help. Let me know what you think.<br>

Thanks<br>

Ian</p>

[sfcole]

<p>I just had two backs cleaned and lubed--both would advance to the first frame but become bound up thereafter and refuse to wind.</p>

[ian_humphrey]

<p>Try my solution mentioned above It might work<br>

Ian</p>

[len_robertson]

<p>Ian - I doubt if WD40 would do any good, since it probably wouldn't get to the correct part of the mechanism. Here is photo from Flickr showing a film magazine interior:<br>

In addition to all the fine gears, there are a few springs which could possibly be broken. I suspect WD40 would just make a mess for a repair person to clean out. The film advance indicator "flag" is shown in the lower left corner. <br>

I'm confused about replacing the "lens hood" having an effect on the camera operation. You don't mean the film magazine dark slide do you?<br>

Len</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

Indeed. Please, do not make a mess of it by squirting WD40 on/in it! It will only make matters worse.<br>You'd do much better opening up the thing (three screws below the leatherette cover on the wind crank side of the magazine) and see what you encounter. Even when you do not know anything about how these mechanisms work, you're likely to do less damage than a squirt of WD40 will do.

[ian_humphrey]

<p>Scott<br>

I experienced the same problem, but I found that if I turned the camera gear knob and then fired the shutter with the lens cover on, it seemed to resolve the problem. Try it.<br>

Ian</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>The <strong>WD </strong>in WD40 stands for <strong>Water Dispersant</strong>. Water Dispersant #40 contains a light weight oil, probably vegetable oil, and will dry out in a few months and leave a light residue that will build up with repeated applications and turn into a sticky mess. 3in1 oil is a vegetable base oil that will dry out and leave a sticky residue behind. <strong>Do Not</strong> use these oils in cameras or shutters.</p>

<p>Oils such as TriFlo http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Tri-Flow_Superior_Drip_Lubricant.html<br /><br>

and gun oil work well. You only need a drop about the size of a straight pin point or less to lube a camera/shutter part as more will act like glue.<br /></p>

[ian_humphrey]

<p>Scott<br>

In addition to my instructions above after firing the shutter and it still does not rewind on, I have found that you can rewind to the next frame using the winding knob on the film insert winding crank and this works well if it happens again if it does not rewind after using the body crank to set the shutter.<br>

Ian</p>

[scott_murphy5]

<p>I am guessing that the problem is not with the camera but rather with the back. Honestly, I would take it to a qualified repair shop and let them tinker with it. It might requre onlya very minor fix. And I would NEVER squirt WD40 into any camera, back or lens. If you think you have high repair bills now, just wait after you hit it with WD40.</p>

[ian_humphrey]

<p>Hi Scott<br>

I took the easy way out and sold the body and film back to to a guy who has a museum, but kept the lens and bought a replacement on e-bay which works fine. I think the original body and back were faulty when I first bought them and should have returned it but as I possibly caused some of the damage this was not possible and it was uneconomical to repair ; so bye bye to it.<br>

Ian</p>