Nikon D2X color cast on jpeg photos

[rod_jones2]

<p>Since buying my Nikon D2X, I have been most satisfied except for the brown color cast across most photos and a general lack of bright colors on days when the light is bright overcast to overcast. On days of bright blue skies, the colors are great.<br>

I also find that the camera generally overexposes most photos by 1/2 to 1 EV so to overcome this, I have the camera set to -0.7EV compensation and I make final adjustments in Lightroom.<br>

I have tried "Auto" White Balance and each of the "cloudy" and "shade" settings and all have a brown color cast.<br>

For your information, Tone Compensation is set to "+ more contrast", Color Mode to "I", Hue adjustment to "0 degrees" and Color Space to "sRGB".<br>

I always shoot in jpeg - I have seen other responses on this Forum about using RAW, but the file sizes does not suit my travel photography.<br>

Does anyone have any advice how to overcome the brown color cast and lack of color brightness/vibrance?</p>

 

[lornesunley]

<p>ummm, shoot in RAW, that gives you a file with the data that can be used to correct your problems. Just shooting JPEG locks in the problems with no real recourse to better corrective measures.</p>

<p>And yes, I did read the bit about file sizes. Either you save the data you need to correct the problem, or you live with the problem.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<blockquote>

<p>"I always shoot in jpeg - I have seen other responses on this Forum about using RAW, but the file sizes does not suit my travel photography."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>In 2005-2006, that might have been a reasonable compromise. Fast 1GB CF cards cost over $100. A 50-100GB portable hard hard drive cost upward of $500. Nowadays a 4GB CF card costs around $25 or less. You can buy a laptop with 250-500GB HD for under $300.</p>

<p>Media is dirt cheap. It's false economy to avoid shooting raw. I routinely shoot JPEG/NEF simultaneously with my D2H and V1. I've never once regretted that. I've often regretted shooting JPEG only for photos that seemed okay to me in 2005 but now realize I could edit better if I'd shot raw.</p>

<p>And if you're using Lightroom to tweak your D2X JPEGs, you're seeing only a fraction of the potential of those photos. I'm slowly working my way through thousands of D2H raw files in Lightroom because the results are far better and more consistent than my earlier edits in Nikon Capture, Bibble and various other programs.</p>

<p>Regarding color casts, the D2X - like the D2H - has a WB sensor on the prism. It's that little wedge shaped white doodad. You can use it to fine tune WB for almost any situation. The only time it's balky is under flickering metal halide or fluorescent light, or very dim outdoor light. Otherwise, you can custom white balance through the lens using a neutral white or gray card.</p>

[elliot1]

<p>Are you seeing this color cast in your prints, on your computer monitor or both?<br /> <br /> <em>"a general lack of bright colors on days when the light is bright overcast to overcast. On days of bright blue skies, the colors are great."</em> This is normal. Different lighting conditions typically require different settings for best results. On days that are overcast, turn up your color saturation a bit and you may be happier with the results. RAW shooters don't have to worry about this because you optimize the settings during post processing.</p>

 

[JosvanEekelen]

<p>The first step is to calibrate your monitor, or at least check the calibration.</p>

[mark_stephan2]

<p>Can you post a picture with exif data? That helps when diagnosing a problem. I still shoot a D2x (greatest digital camera ever made :-)) and cannot duplicate your problems.</p>

[Palouse]

<p>I still shoot with a D2X--mostly landscape and nature. It's my only camera. I shoot in RAW, color mode III. -.3EV. I shoot with Daylight, cloudy or shade WB and correct in Capture NX2. No brown color cast unless I want one--harvest/forest fire season with lots of dust and smoke after sundown.</p>

[Gup]

<p>I've never experienced a colour cast either. Show us what's going on.</p>

[JAPster]

<p><em><strong>a general lack of bright colors on days when the light is bright overcast to overcast. On days of bright blue skies, the colors are great.</strong></em></p>

<p>The condition of your atmosphere definitely affects how much your subject's colors 'pop' (or not). Remember, all the colors (different wavelengths) you expect to see in your subject are already resident in natural sunlght. So on a clear cloudless sunny day you get much more direct sunlight falling on your subjects, so you get more reflected sunlight back to your camera, so any colors will be brighter. On a moody cloudy day however, the overcast diffuses much of that sunlight, scattering it all around in a multitude of directions, so less sunlight reflects off your subjects, and colors appear muted. This phenomena is true regardless of what model camera you happen to be using.</p>

[derek_thornton1]

<p>Rod, if you are shooting jpeg's go to your favorite camera store and enter "wite balance" into the search. There are hundreds of white balance disc and cards ranging from $5.00-$100.00. that should help you greatly. You will have to reset your WB any time the light changes. Personally, I have always shot RAW with auto WB. </p>

[luke_kaven]

<p>Upping the contrast on your picture controls will exaggerate exposure due to the artificial boost in the tone curve. Using the "neutral" (LR: "camera neutral", C1: "linear") profile is the only true exposure indication. The appearance of overexposure is not the meter's fault, but the result of your adding two-thirds of a stop or so in effect through the choice of picture settings. Best to shoot RAW. </p>

[ellis_vener_photography]

By shooting JPEGS only you give up at

least 50% of the quality a D2X is

capable of. you lose control over fine

tuning white balance, non destructive

noise reduction, dynamic range and

color "depth."

 

On the other hand shooting RAW

means that you have to acquire at least

a passing acquaintance with a raw

processing program: Lightroom,

Aperture, Adobe Camera Raw, etc.

and you take at least partial

responsibility for how your photos turn

out. Some people don't want to deal

with that and are happy living inside

the limitations of an 8 bit color space

and prefer to not worry about what they

are missing.

 

As for me I only shoot "raw" because I

like controlling how my photos turn out.