Identifying exposed film

[ardea]

Hi...One of the helpful features on on my Canon EOS 1V was that it

numbered the film leader with a sequential number and of course, the

film frame numbers were imprinted also. This helped a lot ID'ing film

and exposure. Being a newbie to LF I was wondering how to ID the Film

after development. It's easy to ID the film holder, but more

difficult to relate the film to that holder number and then to your

field notes. Sometimes it's easy but other times the exposure

differences are too subtle for these old eyes. Now to the point. How

do the experienced shooters tackle this problem? I have this idea

that I will share for thought.

 

On the border of the film there are narrow areas that remain

unexposed. These areas are masked by the film retainers in the

filmholders. I'm thinking of drilling holes just through the retainer

with a #60 or #65 (around .035" or 0.9mm) twist drill and locate the

holes in a sequence that will relate to the number of the film

holder. The holes, being drilled in the masked area, should appear on

the unused portion of the film (unless that area of the neg was a

very low zone). This would also help locate film holders that are

leaking.

 

IE this would be the hole code for number 3 film holder, ...

This would be number 8, . ...

and this number 13, .. ...

- well you get the idea.

 

I would like to hear what you all think, pro AND con or any other

ideas.

Thanks so much for reading this,

 

Richard Martel Florida Keys

[todd_caudle]

Sounds like it would work. OR, you could buy some of the film holders that have little clear plastic, numbered wheels on the inside that you can set at a given value, and therefore match up holder with processed film. I have some of these, and like them very much. Others hate 'em, not keen on the locking darkslides, which is another feature I actually like.

[eugene_singer]

Richard, it sounds like a good idea. Just don't expect to be able to sell those drilled holders to anyone, in the future. I once bought a dozen 4X5 plastic holders that had "V" shaped notches filed along the inside edge of the bottom flap. They worked O.K., but I never was able figure out the guy's numbering code system.

[john_kasaian1]

Richard, I think Ansel Adams has a system using holes in the holder to identify film. He discribes it in detail in one of the books in his 3 volume series---sorry I don't remember which one---it might be worth looking into. I bought most of my holders used from a studio that closed and since I didn't know any better, I just continued with the same method the previous owner of the holders used---each side has a sticker with a number, and each shot is recorded in a notebook with the pertanent info referenced with the number on the holder. Since I only develop 1 or 2 8x10 negs at a time this works for me, but I imagine that if I were shuffeling 8 or 9 4x5s it would be easy to loose track. Good Luck!

[bill_proud]

Richard,

 

I shoot Fuji Quikload, which has a white pull tab that I use to note exposure and other data. I ordered two stamps with critical info such as date, time, lens diameter, f/stop, shutter speed, tilt, filters and a, "goes with" line to tie it to second and third exposures. I can pre-stamp the tabs before going into the field and then enter the notes. There is also a "title"_____ line. I think the stamps only cost about $10.00 apiece.

 

I keep the empty sleeves so I can go back and recall this data if necessary.

[www.graemehird.com]

This thread from 2000 might also give you some ideas:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0031RC

[ardea]

Thanks so much for the info that I requested...Food for thought. I think placing small notches in the film holder flap using a simple code system will do the trick....Thanks again and thanks for helping make this site a place to exchange thoughts and ideas...Cookies for all.

 

Regards, Richard

[jason_greenberg_motamedi]

Grafmatics have a nifty system of numbering built in; there is a small wheel which rotates when you shift the film, numbering it 1-6. However the number cuts into the image a bit, which many people find annoying. These wheels are easily removable.

[jnanian]

hi richard:

 

years ago kodak made a folding camera ( it used roll film and

"cut film plates"), it was called the "autographic". this camera had

a little door that flipped-up and a pen that allowed the

photographer to write notes &c on the negative. i think a similar

system was used with other plate cameras too, where a

light-proof door allowed for notes, or marks &c.

 

your idea sounds great, i would love to hear how it works.

 

best of luck with it!

 

- john

[andrew_oneill]

Why don't you try a "notch" system? You'll need 3 different shaped small files such as jeweler's files: V-shape, round, square. The round file use to make half-circle mark which would represent "10". Square mark= "5". V mark="1".

ie: Holder #1= one V; holder #2= 2 V marks. Holder #16 would equal: a half circle, a square mark, and a "V" mark. Make your notches along the film gate's edge that touches the film. I learnt this years ago and it works fine.

[photobyalan.com]

Using the border areas of the film is the correct idea. I have found an excellent way to do it. I use a Dremel or other rotary tool to cut a notch about 1 inch long and 3/8" deep into the middle of the flap at the bottom of the film holder (the one you open to load/unload film sheets). Then I get some clear overhead transparency sheets for inkjet printers (or clear Avery labels) and use a very small font (like 5pt.) to make a combination copyright notice/film holder number label. These labels are cut to size and fastened with clear tape to the inside of the flap where it lays against the film. When the dark slide is inserted, the notch, and the film, is covered. When you pull the dark slide to make an exposure, it opens up the notch as well and lets light through the acetate (with your copyright and numbering info printed on there) and exposes the film when you trip the shutter. What you end up with after developing is a complete image on the film, plus a small 'window' in the border of the sheet next to the film coding notches, that has your message and the number of the film holder. Since there are two flaps, each holder has two separate numbers (you can call them 1A and 1B, for instance) so you can immediately identify what holder, and what side of the holder, was used for that exposure. It also gives you a permanent and visible copyright notice on the original sheet of film. There is enough room on my 4x5 holders to have the copyright symbol and my name and phone number along with the holder number.

 

It might take a bit of experimenting to get the labels printed and cut to the correct size, but once you get the size and trimming figured out, you can print a whole sheet of them with all the info and numbers then cut and tape them into your film holders. If you like to keep careful records, this system will be worth every bit of time and effort.

 

BTW, I have sold holders on eBay that were modified in this manner, and they sold easily and at about the average price for similar holders (and, yes, I disclosed the modification in the auction listing).