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<p>I'm a high school black and white film photography teacher. I need to buy quality, rugged, old film cameras on a tight budget! I know Pentax K1000 are a great camera but they're popular and $$ to buy. What other sturdy cameras have a good reputation that I could start following on ebay?</p>
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<p>Other Pentax K-mount cameras can be a much better buy than the K1000. The KM is a superior camera, but often sells for less since it's not a K1000. One advantage of a K1000 is that it's quite likely it's rather new, and won't need a clean/lube/adjust.<br>

Just be sure whatever you buy doesn't require mercury batteries. Too much hassle for your students to deal with the workarounds. So forget the Minolta SRT-100 and SRT-200 series. <br>

The Canon AE-1 uses a silver oxide battery, and Canon FD mount lenses go for modest prices. But many of AE-1's need some repair. There's a "squeak" they develop. <br>

The Nikon cameras that use silver oxide batteries are holding their value well. Nikkormat FTn goes cheap, but mercury battery problem...</p>

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<p>Try the Prakticas. The M42 cameras give you a wide variety of affordable lenses. You can go with Pentax or Zeiss lenses and there's an infinite variety of slightly lesser lenses that provide good results too. My favourite is the Pentacon 1.8/50 (better known as the Meyer Oreston). I'll put it up against anything in 50mm. It may not come off better, but it won't come off worse either. They use 625 alkaline batteries too.</p>
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<p>If you can solve the mercury battery problem (either through a local source that doesnt care about the EPA or by getting them off ebay) the Minolta SRT's are some of the best old manual focus cameras you can find. They beat the K1000 hands down and lenses for them, while going up somewhat, can be had relatively cheaply. </p>

<p>You might also want to look at the later Minolta X-570. A solidly built (rugged plastic) smaller sized body that had metered manual mode, which I am assuming you want to teach instead of just a program mode. Batteries are easy to find as well. Here is a link for a good article on the X-570.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.rokkorfiles.com/X-570.htm">http://www.rokkorfiles.com/X-570.htm</a></p>

<p>Whichever model or brand you decide to go with you might consider using Garys camera repair for any issues that might crop up. Cheap prices, fast turn around and you get an almost new camera back.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.garryscamera.com/">http://www.garryscamera.com/</a></p>

<p>The Minolta lens family is fairly extensive and any manual focus minolta lenses you but will work on the SRT's and the X-570 and any other of the manual focus Minolta cameras, such as the XE's, the XD's, the XG's and so on. </p>

<p>On the Canon front, look for the FTB or FTBn. Wonderfully solid metal fully manual cameras that are usually on the somewhat cheaper side.</p>

<p>Hope this helps.</p>

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<p>I second <strong>Rob Holz </strong>on the Prakticas. Look for the L-series and try avoid the Nova-series. L-2 [without Meter] and MTL-3 [with the Meter] are among their most durable. For the meter you may use any battery cell that provides 1.5 volts approximately. You could also fit smaller sized cells with paper shims, such as, the 357, AG-13, etc. Best. sp</p>
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<p>Betsy, if you are in the US do I have a deal for you: 3 K-mount mechanical SLRs w/50mm lenses for the whopping price of free. 1 Pentax K1000, 1 Chinon CM4, 1 Sears KSX-1000. All in good working condition including the light meter - film tested. Cosmetics may be so-so. Just send me a PM or an email.</p>

<p>In general, the Sears/Chinon/Ricoh K-mount cameras are very good values. They sell for far less than the equivalent "name" brands, they are typically younger (early to mid 80's), they typically have a vertical metal shutter that is a lot more rugged and reliable than horizontal cloth shutters, and they use cheap, common 1.5v button batteries. Cameras that are donated or from eBay often will have light leaks from deteriorated foam seals but these can be replaced by anyone somewhat handy and craft materials like wool yarn, foamies, etc. </p>

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<p>I was ready to say a word of praise for the Ricok cameras.<br>

the K mount ricoh and sears cameras, as well as the metal shutter ( more rugged)<br>

that have LED metering so a bump or bang is less likely to damage them.<br>

ONE warning : the self timer is a problem and it might vbe better to never use it.<br>

some have even suggested removing the arm and covering the hole.</p>

<p>Flash: those with a top flash shoe may be intermittent<br>

EASY : carefully remove the top and clean and slightly bend up the prong.<br>

so not be fearful, these are simple tasks and the coat of the camera is lower<br>

it will serve you well as a direct replacement for the K1000 and similar cameras.<br>

nothing is wrong with a k1000 but as said more $$$<br>

and many are really old. The Cosinas and Chinons are not always built to the same quality as pentax cameras, but at $25.00<br>

you can replace them easily.<br>

I applaud you for taking a practical approach.<br>

many want to buy the best and pay several hundred dollars each.</p>

<p>If a $25.00 camera is lost stolen or damages it is not a crisis.<br>

and you can have enough so each student can have one to use.</p>

<p>If you deal with real beginners or younger students. a brand name 35mm P&S<br>

could be useful for beginners. a small zoom everything camera can be had for less than $5.00</p>

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<p>The Cosina made SLRs like the Vivitar V4000, V4000S, 3800 etc. are inexpensive but not terribly rugged. The two cameras I would recommend are the Canon FTbN and the Nikkormat FT2. The Nikkormat FT2 takes available MS-76 batteries. The Canon FTbN can use a zinc-air size 675 hearing aid battery even without a rubber O ring. The spring in the battery chamber/cap will hold the battery. The zinc-air batteries only last a few months once their tape is pulled off. These cameras both have something which is not on the K1000, depth of field preview. This is why I have always thought the K1000 isn't the best camera to learn on. The FTbN has 12 degree metering while the FT2 has center weighted metering. This is another advantage for teaching. Your students can learn that a camera's light meter is calibrated for 18% gray and can be taught to point the metering area at a mid tone for a correct overall reading. This cuts down on the scenes which have bright backgrounds and underexposed foregrounds. The correct metering techniques can also be taught with the FT2 but the metering area is not clearly marked in the finder as it is in the FTbN. The FTbN is the later model of the FTb. It shows the shutter speed in the finder and has a black plastic tip on the end of the film advance lever. <br>

A few other considerations: The standard 50/1.8 Canon FD lenses are usually less expensive than the 50/2 or later 50/1.8 Nikkors, all Nikkormat FT2s have the K focusing screen with a split image surrounded by a microprism collar. Most of the FTbNs you will find have the plain microprism screen but a few show up with a screen similar to Nikon's K. These cameras, Canon or Nikkormat, should be taken to a qualified repair person for a CLA (cleaning, lubrication and adjustment). This should cost $75 to $100 for each camera. After that they should work well for many years. Although the Nikkormat FT2 takes an MS-76 battery the lenses will still have to be indexed each time they are taken off and put back on. The Canon FTbN does not require this step. If the lens is not indexed properly the meter readings are not reliable. For now most students will just be using a 50mm lens but the indexing still needs to be explained. <br>

One more alternative I will add is the Minolta SRT series. Both the Nikkormat FT2 and the Canon FTbN also have mirror lock-up. That might be a little advanced for a beginner photo class. I mention this because the early Minolta SRT models have it but later ones do not. As has been mentioned before, some cameras are not as easily adapted if they were made to run on mercury batteries. All Minolta SRT cameras fall into this category. If this doesn't deter you then you can consider the SRT-101, SRT 102 and SRT 201 models. These all have depth of field preview. If you are getting the cameras the CLA treatment then the technician can convert the SRTs to 1.5 volts so that would solve the battery problem. Minolta SRTs will probably cost less than the Canon FTbNs and the Canons will cost less than the Nikkormat FT2s. There is a later Nikkormat FT3 which also takes the MS-76 battery and which does not need indexing when mounting a lens but which requires AI lenses to work with full aperture metering. All of these (Canon, Nikkormat, Minolta) are good. Based on the combination of features I like the Canon FTbN best. These can also be converted to 1.5 volts (mercury battery not needed) when they are serviced. I would avoid cameras like the Minolta X series models. When they work they are fine but many if not most of these are no longer functioning because of problems with the electronics. <br>

<br>

</p>

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<p>The Ricoh KR-5 / Sears KS-500 (same camera) are sleepers and can be had cheap. The most important thing is being able to check the camera functions. As mentioned, almost all of these old cameras will need the light sealing foam replaced. These two don't have a feature 'called depth of field preview' that allow you to get an idea of how much or little the background (or foreground) will be in focus at working aperture. That may not be an issue but I always liked to show people that what you see with through the lens viewing is wide open and if you are using a smaller aperture your results may look quite different on the processed negative. Even with that I think they are good values as teaching cameras.</p>
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<p>The Yashica FXs are pretty low on the Radar The FX /FR series. However the FR and the FX 1 need a battery to work the shutter. I especially recommed nthe FX 2 it uses normal LR44 for meter only the shutter is manual. Same for the later FX3 series (cosina?) The FXD though needs a battery to work! </p>
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<p>Another vote for the Praktica L series. I would go for the MTL5B as it's meter uses a bridge circuit and takes the 1.55v A76 battery, commonly available. I bought two for friends recently for £12 and £16 with 1.8/50 Pentacon lenses. There is one seal next to the door hinge that usually needs fixing, buy a length of velvet tape and some Bostic clearbond. For detailed sealing instructions see:<br>

http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00SVtt</p>

<p>You may also need to clean out the battery compartment with a little white vinegar on a cotton bud if someone has left a battery in there.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>I'm coming in late to this, but I suggest going away from an older manual camera to a newer AF model that allows one to use the PASM modes. You can pick up used Canon Rebels and Nikon N8008, N2002, N65 cameras for a fraction of the cost. On top of that, the controls will be similar to the ones found in DSLRs. On top of that, the newer cameras usually have better metering and exposure options (easier to teach +/- exposure compensation). There really is no problem with shooting a Canon Rebel or similar Nikon in manual mode. You avoid all the problems with outdated batteries, and bodies that have been abused over the years. I highly recommend the N8008 (less than $20 each at KEH) - it can use manual or AF lenses, runs on AA batteries, and has an excellent high-eyepoint viewfinder. Additionally, lens apertures are set on the lens barrel, just like older manual cameras. A 35-80 AF lens on that camera should cost very little these days. KEH has the standard 50mm 1.8D AF lens for less than $90. A Sigma 24-70 lens is less than $50.</p>
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<blockquote>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=332004">Erik Magnuson</a>, Oct 05, 2012; 10:48 p.m.<br /> Betsy, if you are in the US do I have a deal for you: 3 K-mount mechanical SLRs w/50mm lenses for the whopping price of free. 1 Pentax K1000, 1 Chinon CM4, 1 Sears KSX-1000. All in good working condition including the light meter - film tested. Cosmetics may be so-so. Just send me a PM or an email.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Eric has the best deal for you Betsy, <strong>Defiantly go that way</strong> ..<br>

<br /> There is a reason that Pentax K1000 was the number one beginner camera for decades and schools recommended them and that you know about it.<br>

If you need more cameras too, just get more Pentax or other K-mount bodies. that are cheep. even if they break.. I picked up 2 non-Pentax K-mount bodies for 6 dollars each, recently online.<br>

Don't worry that they are manual focus because that's better to learn on and anyone else that thinks AF is better for beginners is .. what am I doing.. you already know this your a teacher :) <br /> well good luck and enjoy the K-mount bodies.. As time goes on maybe you can slip into the budget a great used Tukamar lens here and there.. Keh would be a good place to buy from for a School.. and the best thing is that if you ever add an advanced digital class all you need to do is get a good Digital Pentax DSLR and all the old Pentax Tukamar lenses will totally function great on .. Just make sure you have someone removes the pin on any Ricoh lenses if you got any before putting them on the new Pentax auto-focus bodies..<br>

Oh.. and congratulations on being art teacher of the year :)</p>

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  • 2 weeks later...
<p>I'm going to add my voice for and Minolta SLRs. They usually carry a 50mm f/1.7 lens and go for around $50 a piece. The x-700 and x-500 are great. Even the old SR-1s and SR-7s are great and cheap if you want to go super old school. And, remember, Minolta made glass for Leica. Their lenses are top notch. </p>
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  • 2 weeks later...

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