Falsely Advertised Ikonta

[k5083]

<p>Having had success with <a href="../classic-cameras-forum/00ZuFk">some minor repair of a friend's Ikonta </a>a few months ago, I decided to keep an eye out for a 6x4.5 ("A") Ikonta that might have a sluggish shutter or other similar issues to rehabilitate. On ebay I found what seemed a good candidate, an early 520 model that was advertised as containing one wooden and one metal spool, i.e., it had not been used for quite some time. It was evident from the listing that it had a Tessar in Compur and some very large Zeiss bumps.</p>

<p>When it arrived, I was so inclined to assume that the shutter would need a CLA that I almost didn't bother to test it first. Curiosity got the better of me and I did so. To my surprise the shutter performed within 0.3 stops of spec at all speeds; the top speed of 1/300 was even a little fast. Contrary to the representations made in the listing, this shutter could not have been sitting idle for decades. Someone has maintained it -- and quite well too, there being no tool marks around the screws etc. </p>

<p>So, to my disappointment, there was almost no work to do except for removing the Zeiss bumps. This was my first time doing that, and it went okay, not great. The leather is not perfectly smooth, partly because the bumps distorted it, partly because my work could have been neater. Looks better than before though.</p>

<p><img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/Ikonta01.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>The other thing that it needed was to address possible light leaks around the red film windows. These have no sliding cover and this is one of the early configuration Ikontas with one of the windows located over the film feeder spool where light leaks are often a problem. I used a modified version of Cliff Manley's mod described in <a href="../classic-cameras-forum/00PJJQ">this thread</a>, but with smaller pieces of foam and paper than he used. I also keep the windows covered with electrical tape which I peel up only when advancing film.</p>

<p><img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/Ikonta02a.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>It occurs to me that another good way to avoid light leaks with this model of 520 is to avoid uncovering that corner window at all, and use only the center one. This is possible if you are using a brand of film that has the right sort of markings on the backing paper. Most Fuji films that I've used have a series of dots that give you warning when the next number is coming up, and the first of those dots in the 6x9 sequence (which is used by 6x4.5 cameras like this one) is almost exactly halfway between the two numbers. So you can learn to position that first warning dot in the center window such that you only need to use that one. But this doesn't work with Kodak films, which have no warning markings until you are almost at the next frame number.</p>

<p>Anyway, I used both windows for my test roll, because I wanted to see if my light seal system worked. And it did. So here are the thoroughly banal test shots taken in New York and on a trip to Chattanooga (yes, that would be the choo choo).</p>

<p><img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/Plant01.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/ChooChoo01.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/ToNewYork01.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>I'm a little disappointed not to be able to post a thread crowing about how I fixed up this camera, but in spite of the seller's false representations, I think I may as well keep it.</p>

 

[JDMvW]

<p>Congratulations on the misrepresentation!</p>

<p>As your pictures show, the old Tessars were very nice lenses. Well done.</p>

<p>I personally tend to look at the 'bumps' as part of the authentication process, although I do fix them if the camera needs a recover anyway. :)</p>

[winfried_buechsenschuetz1]

<p>I have run across quite a few shutters, repaired some of them and cleaned many of them. But I never had any problems with rim-set Compur shutters. I once bought a very similar Ikonta and checked the shutter with a set-up made from a phototransistor and a digital scope - and was quite surprised about the accuracy of this old boy. The 1 sec was accurate down to 10 or 20 milli-seconds, i.e. better than 2 p.c. accuracy!</p>

[starvy]

Lovely uncoated Tessar I believe? Love the first and third. Use with a hood paired with modern film I believe that these Tessars are still very good performers.

[leicaglow]

<p>I'm so sorry for your loss<g>.</p>

[marc_bergman1]

<p>Not being familiar with the term Zeiss bumps I did a search. It is always interesting to learn new things.</p>

<p>http://www.zeisscamera.com/services_overhaul-cIIa-leather.shtml</p>

[chuck_foreman1]

<p>My deepest sympathies! I have this model too! And while I certainly am not up to repiring things like you are; I am happy to report as Winfried, my Compur als seems perky and happy! You might have lifted Cliff'S post from mine. I have also been bothered by light leaks. I tried a simpilar setup wit hbacking paper and a flap. IT wasn'T very good and no I cover and count the turns and proof on the second window as you have described. Your train shot seems alomost surreal. I also thought an older Tessar would show some differences to a modern, but I felt this was right up there. Dan Fromm recently made the comment that these Tessars show no differences across 70+ plus years. Maybe it's my film, but the B&L Tessar from the  Graflex (circa 1925) seems to be a bit different. Nice contrast, but lacking a bit of definition. I now want a 6x9 or 6x6 that does double duty as 645! I am inspired to take mine out again it'S been about a year sine I last loaded it! </p>

[DWScott]

<p>I have two Zeiss folders -- the 522/24 Ikonta 35, and a Super Ikonta B. Both cameras looked un-serviced (and largely unused) when I received them in the past couple of years, and the shutters are both are impeccable. Accurate and without any hesitation at all. The Super Ikonta suffered from a filthy lens, so I disassembled it, cleaned it, and reassembled while also recalibrating the rangefinder. The shutter didn't need to be touched.<br>

It's amazing, these Zeiss have fared so much better than any of my other antique or classic cameras. Truly a testament to high quality workmanship and materials.</p>

[k5083]

<p>Thanks guys. I was able to get the uncoated Tessar to flare badly if I worked at it, but even a hood is unnecessary if you are careful where you point it. I use a homemade phototransistor tester plugged into my PC's microphone jack, and I agree the old Compurs are goodies but I have never seen one this accurate out of the gate, and rarely even after a CLA. I will say that in my experience the prewar ones run better than the postwar. </p>

<p>A 6x4.5 folder is such a handy camera to have. This is almost exactly the 1.5cm shorter than a 6x6 Ikonta that the difference in image size would suggest, and it makes the difference in being truly pocketable. Plus you get the 16 frames per roll and often would have cropped the 6x6 to a rectangle anyway. My prior 6x4.5 was a Nettar that died a few years ago and I'm happy to have a replacement.</p>

 

[Rick_van_Nooij]

<p>Sorry to hear you got suckered on this camera August. ;)</p>

 

[rick_drawbridge]

<p>Tough. You'll just have to live with it, <strong>August</strong>. In fairness, it must be one of those rare occasions when an auction purchase turns out to be better than expected. That's certainly a nice old Tessar you have there; I'm only sorry you didn't have the pleasure of taking it apart for cleaning.</p>