Taking the plunge into Large Format...

[Mike Howard]

<p>Recently I decided to "kick it up a notch" and get a basic setup for large format. I purchased very cheaply a Crown Graphic and an Omega D2, both of which are somewhat beat up but functional, minus a few minor doodads. I have done a great deal of research and still have a few questions left, in order to complete the package.</p>

<p>1. I need film holders. There are a great many of them on the market for various prices. My Crown has a spring back (it appears to be pre-1950). Will pretty much any 2-sided holder fit? Which ones are considered good? KEH has several for pretty cheap, and that's where I intend to get them. A Graflok back would be nice, but I don't really see it as necessary at this point.</p>

<p>2. On the D2, I have pretty much everything except a cone. Should I get both the 2 1/2" and 4 1/2" cones, for flexibility? I have a very nice condition S-K Componon 135, with plate.</p>

<p>3. Speaking of the lens, is 135 really big enough, or do I really need a 150? I have read many articles on the interwebs, with some saying 135 is fine, others saying N/G.</p>

<p>4. What should I look for as my first wide angle lens, once I get to that point? My Crown has the 135 Optar, in super condition. The shutter seems it will be fine now that I've worked and cleaned it up a bit.</p>

<p>5. Back to the D2, I have no base, nor baseplate. I plan on making my own for both, anyone do this and have any pointers?</p>

<p>Thanks for helping out a beginner here. I realize many of you will consider the CG "not so good" but I figure I gotta start somewhere, and this thing was really cheap. I'm an engineer in the automotive industry, and I love these mechanical beauties. It's beat up plenty, but nothing that affects functionality. I'll probably reskin it, repaint the black pieces, and give it a really good cleaning, but then again, maybe not :)</p>

[leighb]

<p>First off, take a look at the tutorials and the forum at the Large Format Photography site<br /> http://www.largeformatphotography.info<br /> Lots of good information and many helpful folks there. Great Classifieds but you must be a member for 30 days.</p>

<p>1. Film holders...<br /> Probably the best available are made by Toyo, and the price reflects that.<br /> I prefer the newer Riteway holders with an automatic slide lock and little number dials that imprint the film.<br /> My next choice is Fidelity Elite holders. The older Riteways and Lisco holders are farther down my list.<br /> Whichever you get, look for plastic dark slides rather than those with metal handles; metal handles are older.</p>

<p>2. I'm not familiar with that enlarger. Generally you use a 135mm enlarger lens for 4x5.</p>

<p>3. Lenses<br /> You may end up with many lenses. My 4x5 kit includes 14 different ones, from 65mm through 450mm.<br /> There's little difference between 135mm and 150mm. I have both (plus 105, 120, 180...)<br /> <br /> The critical parameter with a Graphic is the Flange Focal Length (FFL) of the lens. <br /> This is the distance from the lensboard to the film when focused at infinity. It's not the same as the optical focal length.<br /> Generally FFL > OFL for short lenses, about equal at mid-lengths, and FFL < OFL for long lenses (sometimes by a lot).</p>

<p>The Graphic cameras have a relatively short bellows, so the range available is less than a field camera.<br /> You can find FFL specs for any modern lens online, particularly compilations on the Ebony camera website and LFFP.</p>

<p>Also be careful of shutter size. Modern shutters include the Copal 0 (smallest), Copal 1, and Copal 3 (largest).<br>

The Graphic probably won't take a Copal 3.<br>

- Loupe<br>

You'll need a focusing loupe. I recommend the 3.6x Toyo (also branded Omega). <br /> It's almost 4" long, so you don't bump your nose into the ground glass.</p>

<p>5. Enlarger mounting...<br /> Mount it to the wall with a countertop below it.</p>

<p>BTW, the Graphic is a great camera, very rugged. It takes a licking and keeps on clicking. (sorry)</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p> </p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>#3 & #4: What focal length is appropriate depends on the type of photography you want to do.<br>

A 4x5 Crown Graphic has a 52.4mm minimum flange to film distance and a 12 1/2 inch (317.5mm) bellows extension. See <a href="http://www.graflex.org/">http://www.graflex.org/</a> . Most 65mm should work at the widest end and 305mm (12 inch) for the longest. The front standard throat opening is 75mm approximately. The lens rear element will have to be smaller to fit in the bellows throat and or the shutter mount ring no larger than 78mm outside diameter for the lens board to fit properly.</p>

<p>Post your serial number and I will give you the year of manufacture.</p>

[Mike Howard]

<p>Sorry guys, in #3, I am referring to the enlarger lens. Looks like 135 for that is ok.</p>

[leicaglow]

<p>#1, The best I've used are Sinar, but for economics and quality, I prefer Toyo.<br>

#2, Normally, on a D2, you don't need a cone, if you're talking about the one you mount the lens to. With Omega/Chromega enlargers, there are so many accessories you can buy, that I'd recommend adding them only after using the enlarger for awhile and seeing if you're missing something. It IS good to know what is available for your system though.<br>

#3, 135mm is fine. I've got a 150mm that doesn't seem to give me much over the 135mm, so I don't use it (and it's a lot bigger).<br>

#4, It totally depends on what you're using the WA for. I shoot with a 65mm/72mm/90mm for WA. I tend to use the 90mm the most of all of them. The 65mm is a bit smaller than the others, and good for a field camera, but still, I use the 90mm the most.</p>

<p>Yeah, no bad-talking one of my favorite cameras. For LF, it gets used for 90% of my shooting, followed by my Sinar and Toyo View. If you don't think it's a good camera, it could be that it needs some reconditioning or something. Keep it in good shape, and it's a joy to use. </p>

<p>Some things I recommend doing with the CG: <br>

1. Do some testing with the camera to make sure the front standard isn't bent, and when locked down in its normal zero position, it is parallel to the film plane.<br>

2. Upgrade the ground glass to something more modern and bright, and you will love your CG camera a lot more, compared to using it with the old GG.<br>

3. Patch up any holes (seems there are a bunch of them on old Graphics). It will help your self esteem.<br>

4. Buy some replacement camera leather, if you like, from CameraLeather.com, and give it a new look. <br>

5. Clean it up really good, and use small amounts of graphite lubricant on the rails and other parts, to make sure everything moves smoothly.<br>

6. Make sure your lens boards are good quality, drilled correctly, and not hacked together. You will gain a bit of image quality if yours are in good shape.<br>

7. Get a good loupe, preferably one that has long relief from the GG, so you can see it outside of the shade.</p>

[clay2]

<p>Hi Leigh,</p>

<address>How did you come up with that link? (<a href="http://www.largeformatphotography.info/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.largeformatphotography.info</a>)</address><address> </address><address>I looked under large format forum, learning, and equipment, but can find no general '.info' link.</address><address> </address><address>Must be tired.</address><address> </address><address>Best regards,</address><address> </address><address>/Clay</address>

<p> </p>

[leighb]

<p>Hi Clay,</p>

<p>I'm a member of that forum.</p>

<p>If you Google "large format photography" (without quotes) that's the first site that comes up.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

 

[clay2]

<p>Ha! Thank you. I would never have thought of that.<br>

Best regards,<br>

/Clay</p>

[Mike Howard]

<p>Thanks for the great responses guys, you are all much appreciated!</p>

[snicker_doodle]

<p><strong>FILM HOLDERS:</strong> I wouldn't worry too much about which film holders... just find some nice used ones at good prices and don't worry about it. Just be sure you buy from a reputable seller who guarantees them.</p>

<p><strong>135mm EL:</strong> It should work fine.</p>

<p><strong>LENSES:</strong> As others stated, this depends on subject matter, shooting style and budget. Personally, I want every focal length that I might ever want to use. Yes, I'm a spoiled brat. I no longer shoot 4x5 but the first list below would be my lens choices if I did. The second list is less comprehensive with more affordable alternatives... but they're still excellent lenses. I don't do architecture so I don't usually need a lot Scheimpflug movements. You may have different needs.<br /> ----------------------------------<br /> <strong>COMPREHENSIVE LIST:</strong><br /> 47mm SA XL<br /> 80mm SS XL<br /> 120mm Apo Symmar-L<br /> 200mm Nikkor-M<br /> 300mm Fujinon-C (or) Nikkor-M<br /> 450mm Fujinon-C (or) Nikkor-M<br /> 600mm Fujinon-C<br>

---------------------------------<br /> <strong>BUDGET LIST:</strong><br /> 90mm SA f/8<br /> 135mm Xenar f/4.7<br /> 203mm Ektar f/7.7<br>

--------------------------------<br>

You'll be very lucky to purchase that first list for less than $6,000.<br>

The second list, if you don't mind a little cosmetic wear, can be bought for as little as $400 or so.</p>

[snicker_doodle]

<p>^^^ If you want a little wider range and don't mind fairly significant focal length spacing then you could opt for the following (or similar). It's a little pricier than the budget kit above... and, BTW... you can find much less expensive alternatives... these are simply my choices.</p>

<p>75mm SA f/5.6<br /> 152mm Ektar f/4.5<br /> 300mm... maybe a Geronar.</p>

[ron_taylor3]

<p>An easy way to test your bellows is to load a holder with 1 sheet of B &W film, take the camera outside into daylight and insert the holder, cap the shutter and pull the dark slide out. Hand hold the camera and rotate it in all directions to be sure the entire bellows gets direct sunlight on it at least twice. Develop the sheet film for 150% of normal for the temp you have. If there are any fog streaks that show the silhouette of the holder or parts thereof, replace the bellows. This method also works for testing shutters and lens boards.<br>

I learned the hard way many years ago to number my film holders. I cut small V notches in the inside panel on the hinge flap at the end of the holder to image the film holder number with each exposure, the notches on the left indicate 5, 10, 15, etc. notches on the right are 1-5, makes a problem holder easy to find most of the time.</p>

[Mike Howard]

<p>Once again, thanks to everyone for the great help, it has given me much to look at over the next weeks.</p>

[shotz]

<p>You can always turn your Crown Graphic into a Panorama Camera-</p><div></div>

[shotz]

<p>sample photo with my Panorama</p><div></div>