Canon AE-1 Program Gone Missing... Replacement?

[willscarlett]

<p>I'm really not sure what happened to my Canon AE-1 Program. I noticed it went missing towards the middle or end of February, with an FD 50 f/1.4 lens on it. The body caps for both the camera body and the lens are with all my other photo gear, but the camera and lens continue to elude me.</p>

<p>Anyways, I'm realizing that I'll have to replace this, especially if I want to continue using all the Canon FD lenses that I have. What I'm wondering is, should I replace this with another AE-1 Program? I really like the camera, but was never crazy about the meter readout in the viewfinder. I find it to be inaccurate, especially when it came to backlit scenes. It also had a knack to underexpose shots if the sky was a major portion of the image or if someone had strong highlights on them. I do understand this model was center weighted for metering tho.</p>

<p>So, what I'm wondering is... should I go with another AE-1 Program? Or perhaps, just the AE-1, with it's matched needle metering? Or is there another model altogether? And how much should I pay?</p>

[dave_s]

<p>Best bang for the buck: T70. It has a choice of average or partial metering, which is often useful. A T70 is also likely to be a few years younger than your AE-1P. Millions were made, millions sat practically unused, so you can get an excellent copy for $50. Its major downside is the absence of any depth of field preview.</p>

<p>Best camera: IMHO T90 or F-1N. I find the F-1N easier to use, and it feels like a beefed-up 'A' series camera. But the T90 is an awe-inspiring camera.</p>

[SCL]

<p>Sorry to hear about your loss. Having owned an AE-1, T-50, A-1 and T90....for me the T90 just beats everything else by a wide margin I've tried in the FD line. I never owned the F1, but it would be hard to persuade me to exchange another FD body for the T90. I haven't looked at prices recently, but if you check KEH's website, it will give you an idea of current prices from a reputable dealer, then you can check the bigauction site and do some price shopping comparisons.</p>

[chris_waller]

<p>If you can get hold of an F1N then that's what I'd recommend.</p>

 

[thomas_goehler]

<p>The metering of an AE-1p is absolutely accurate or it is supposed to be at least. I've had mine for nearly 26 years now and whenever the metering was wrong, i.e. the photo was over- or underexposed the mistake was entirely on my side, because I had made a mistake. You might want to check this possbility first, before you blame it on the cam.</p>

[philip_wilson]

<p>Best FD bodies (I have most of them) are the T90 if you like modern features and great handling and the F1s if you like solidity and a manual approach. The New F1 is more sophisticated - the original is more solid. You should be aware that the T90 likes to be used.</p>

[willscarlett]

<p>Thank you all for the suggestions. I imagine I'd like to stick with something like the AE-1, AE-1 Program, since I really like the fully manual cameras. From the ones that have been mentioned here, it seems the F1N is a manual camera also. My other cameras are primarily manual too, except for a Nikon 8008.</p>

[craigd]

<p>I'd just get another AE-1 Program. If you want to try something slightly different, get an A-1.</p>

[mark_stephan2]

<p>I also recommend the A-1. I just sold a mint AE-1P on <a href="mailto:eB@y">eB@y</a> and kept my newly refurbished A-1 because it's the best A series body made.</p>

[mark_pierlot]

<p>If metering flexibility is your paramount concern (and it sounds as if it is), the T90 is the body for you, given that it enables you to readily switch between center-weighted, partial, and spot metering. Hell, it even has multi-spot metering, if you want to go hog wild.</p>

<p>The F-1N (my favourite FD body) also has the three metering modes, but it requires changing focusing screens to access each of them. This is okay if you have the time, patience, and pocketbook to acquire and change between the various screens, but if I were you I'd just a T90. And be happy! </p>

[JDMvW]

<p>Another vote for the T90. If you like the FD lenses and manual focus, the T90 is one of the finest cameras ever made. This may not seem like a compliment on this forum, but it is essentially a MF EOS film camera (that was considerably ahead of the early film EOS cameras, in fact) and took the old FD lenses.</p>

<p>I have both a AE-1 Program and a T90. If I could only keep one, I'd stick with the T90, but the AE-1P is cheap enough these days to have both. You'll have more trouble getting a good price on the FD 50mm f/1.4 lens than on the body, whichever you get. You can also get an inexpensive 3rd party winder (like the Spiratone one).</p><div></div>

[flatulent1]

<p>My first choice is (as always) the T90. If you want a manual-type camera to replace the AE-1P, then either get another AE-1P, go for the AE-1 (I like it better than the AE-1P, which I sold), or try the all-manual AT-1. The F-series are big rugged cameras, and if you liked the feel of the AE-1P you may not care for the size and heft of the F1.</p>

[james_turner6]

<p>I'd like to put a word in here for the Pellix. </p>

<p><img src="http://www.phiveas.co.uk/images/Pellix.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="487" /><br>

OK, only kidding. If you're hung on the AE1-type camera, try an AE1. They're lovely cameras and something of a milestone in their own way - bringing SLR photography to the masses back in the day. </p>

<p>But in truth none of the cameras mentioned (Pellix apart) will disappoint. The chief "experience" difference IMHO is that the F1N and T90 are a good deal heavier than any of the A-series cameras.</p>

[willscarlett]

<p>One thing I really liked about the AE-1 Program was the split image rangerfinder view of the focusing screen. My Nikon FE2 has that as well. Does the AE-1 have that?</p>

[mark_pierlot]

<p>The split image microprism focusing screen is pretty much standard in FD bodies.</p>

<p>The F-1 and F-1N offer a dizzying array of user-interchangeable focusing screens, so if you're interested in tying out different types of screens, one of the F-1's might be the body for you.</p>

[marc_rochkind]

Yeah, I suppose the T70 and T90 are better choices.

 

But the EF is by far the most beautiful and elegant of the FD line. (Predates the AEs.)

[james_turner6]

<blockquote>

<p>the EF is by far the most beautiful and elegant of the FD line</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Definitely. Slightly cranky metering: biased towards the lower two thirds of the frame, on the basis that the sky will usually be in the top third. Portrait mode didn't seem to occur to the designers. But beauty for sure.</p>

[User_502260]

<p>I don't have either AE-1 model but I do have an A-1. The only advantage I see in an AE-1 Program is the interchangeable focusing screen. In general I prefer cameras which can fit a grid type screen. The A-1 is the only electronic Canon SLR I have unless you include the partly electronic EF. It is possible to get properly exposed images with a variety of meterering types. You just have to make the necessary adjustments. I find the 12 degree metering of the F-1, F-1n, FTb and FTbN suitable for most subjects. I just meter off of a middle gray tone, recompose and shoot. The F-1N can be set up to give the same 12 degree metering but unlike the Minolta X-700 or the Nikon FE/FE2, with the AE finder you can't lock the reading. This causes me to use the F-1N in manual mode. The meter is faster than what I get with the old F-1/F-1n but is not otherwise very different from using an F-1/F-1n. I do not have a T-90 and will probably not get one. If I want that kind of feature set I will use a Nikon N90S. The N90S is more plentiful, costs less to buy and would be easier to get repaired.<br>

If I am using a camera with center weighted or bottom center weighted metering then I will tilt the camera down and lock the reading (or set it manually). Then I will tilt back up, recompose and shoot. I started out with a Konica Autoreflex T2, which has center weighted metering. Tilting down and then partially depressing the shutter button locks the reading. With a camera like a Pentax Spotmatic which has averaging metering you still need to make sime adjustments in backlit situations. All meters are calibrated for 18% gray so if you meter off a subject which is much lighter or darker than 18% gray you will get an incorrect reading. Some DSLRs have very sophisticated multipattern metering which also takes into account the color of a scene. As long as you understand how meters work you can get good exposures with any properly working camera/meter. You might like an EF. The older ones have a plain microprism while the later ones have the popular combination of a split image surrounded by a microprism collar. An A-1 has more features than an AE-1 or AE-1 Program, has the standard screen that you like and has more accessories. You can stop by and look at the A-1 and the EF if you like. </p>

[ted_schefelbein]

I would get an A1 before I got either AE-1. I am also a fan of the little manual Canons like the TX-they are cheap, accurate,

easy to have serviced, and not only will no one steal them, but, I don't care if they do. So, I always have a camera with me.

I have an old F1 that is wonderful to use, but, is none of the points I brought up above, save accurate. Hence, it is seldom with me.

 

Ted

[michaelchristensen]

<p>AE1Program is a classic .. very easy to use, great meter, good build quality (for plastic). I have had and sold/traded this camera no less than five times over the years .. currently have one left; also an A1 (which is a bit on the complicated side for flash) but has LED readout that is very bright and responsive .. an Old F1, a couple of New F1's, and a T90. Really each is a great camera.</p>

<p>I have found the meter to be accurate in all of these models. The T90 really is a good camera which evolved from a series of refinements .. none of which are important to me .. but may be to you. I love a camera that has some weight and heft to it; one which is easy to set (less menu/choices), has an uncluttered viewfinder without beeping.flashing LEDs (I find it fun to use when I'm learning about the camera, but seriously .. less is better as time goes on) .. all of these cameras meter quite well. I love the match-needle meter in my F1N and this is my mainstay in the Canon FD world .. although the T90 is a bit seductive and fun to use.</p>

<p>As these camera prices have really dropped over the years .. and everyone knows that you always have at least two cameras .. well, you should play with a few of them. I really thought I would love the A1, but I found the bright LED readout a bit too much of a distraction .. although I can tell you with confidence .. the A1 with slide film was spot on accurate and very fun to use; and the A1 is a very sophisticated camera when you need that. I've slapped power film winders on all my FD cameras; if that is important to you .. look at the T90 which integrated that into the body.</p>

<p>I find that the T90 cleaned up the meter display issues of lesser bodies .. and moves film smoothly with authority. By today's standards, the buttons and switches are a bit old-school and some are hidden under a side-door .. a very expensive camera when it appeared on the scene .. I have to say it was probably worth the price .. very refined and a pleasure to use.</p>

<p>As good as FD glass is .. I would have no problems keeping these bodies around for occasional useage. I am not as endeared to the lesser T-series bodies which I find to be cheaply manufactured, but have no doubt the meters are equally good. </p>

<p>If you are the type that tends to be harsh on equipment, the New or Old F1 .. and the T90 are built for you. My daughter dropped my prize AE1P (black version) into a mud bank which put the return mirror out of spec; that camera traveled all over Europe with me without a glitch .. she now shoots a Nikon F5 which has scratches and war wounds but just won't quit working! .. and she likes the autofocus (I digress) ..</p>

<p>Every time I pick up an old camera .. I begin thinking how can I make this thing "sing" .. and can say, that the FD line-up is quite a chorus of song. Use them and enjoy the gift of fine Canon technology .. you select the vintage per your taste.</p>

[bill_force]

<p>I have several Canon FD cameras, 2 FTQL, A-1 AE-1 Program 2 T-50 and one T-70. The old stylel bodied cameras are all in working condition in fact are all excellent but all 3 of the later automatics (T-50 and T-70) have all had the shutters fail. Maybe th magnets but not worth the money to replace a shutter on them. For this reason (personal) I won't buy any more "electronic" Canon film cameras. I've been in South America 12 years and the tropics are hell on electronics and plastics.<br>

My main film camera is the AE-1 Program with the winder, flash etc. and does a perfect job for me. I use a hand held meter (2 diff. ones) to varify the meter on the AE-1 P and it seems to be about 95% accurate vs. the hand held. Because I do have several decent FD lenses but use film cameras sparingly (almost all B&W only) I bought a Sony NEX to utilize my FD lenses and they do great on the Sony. One way of stretching your lens investment if you care to do some digital also.</p>

[User_4136860]

<p>Hi Bill, what adaptor do you need to fit FD lenses on to a Sony NEX , and to what degree do they work on them ?, I know nothing about digital cameras and to be able to utilise my FD optics on a digital compact sounds ideal.</p>

[bill_force]

<p>Fotodiox from Amazon. It's is a simple connector with no glass insert and cost $19.<br>

Fotodiox makes almost any adapter you would need for all cameras including "mirrorless".</p>

[james_turner6]

<blockquote>

<p>what adaptor do you need to fit FD lenses on to a Sony NEX , and to what degree do they work on them ?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Novoflex for me, but there's no particular magic in a glassless metal tube. And the lenses work very well indeed, especially the better ones: I've tried everything (OK, not <em>everything</em>, but quite a few) from 14mm to 300mm with very pleasing results, except with a 24mm f1.4L. Bear in mind that the sensor is not just a compact camera's: it's the same size as most digital SLRs'.<br /> Focussing on an LCD screen takes a bit of getting used to, but the new models offer EVFs which must make that easier, and you can always cobble a viewfinder using a Hoodman loupe or similar. If you search for Nex on this forum you will turn up quite a few discussions of this. See also the Mirrorless forum and search for FD.</p>

[edward_dawson]

<p>One of the best cameras I've ever owned. I still have it, although I have not used it in years.<br>

Metering was never an issue unless I made mistakes myself.</p>