pushkarrajsharma Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 <p>hi<br> i hv just bought a wireless remote for my d300s to capture star trails as i m going on a trek 13000 ft .<br> i hv not used it before<br> i want to know how to allow camera to go on high shutter more than 30 secs using wireless remote<br> or any othre ways to allow camera to take shutter more than 30 secs .. like 30 mins or more</p> <p>all help will be appreciated</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCL Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 <p>I can't speak to the wireless version, but I'm sure you can check the instructions and see if there is a lock open button for long time exposures. I use a wired version and you can lock the shutter open by sliding the button into a lock position. I'm not sure why you would want it open for 30 minutes or more, as that would probably well over-expose anything you would be capturing, even with a low iso.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pushkarrajsharma Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 <p>hi stepehen thanks<br> i bought a wireless remote already :( . i want to use it for star trails exposure of arond 30 minutes or so plz help</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_halliwell Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 <p>The D300S has a B setting on the speed 'dial', the remote will have a slider to allow it to be locked in the 'fire' position. If it doesn't have a lock, maybe you got the wrong one?</p> <p>Battery drain in extra long exposures is high so take some fresh, fully charged ones</p> <p>READ THE MANUAL BEFORE THE NIGHT IN QUESTION..... :-)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nathansanborn Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 <p>If your shutter is set to bulb exposure and for use of the wireless remote, one press of the remote opens the shutter, the next press of the remote closes the shutter.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CvhKaar Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Another method : you can use the camera's intervalometer by setting up a series of 30sec intervals.., and combine the shots afterwards with Photoshop, or another program, So if you set it up for lets say 20seconds exposure, and then 10 seconds between shots ( interval is 30 seconds total) and have this repeated. This allows the sensor to stay cool, and you avoid a lot of noise and environmetal light problems... If you do want long exposures, you will need long exposure noise reduction on , do not forget that the noise reduction process takes about the same time as the exposure itself to proces. ( so : 30 mins. exposure takes 30mins to process the data afterwards,a 1 hour xposure takes 1 hour afterwards etc. ) , so if you switch of the camera straight after the exposure ( or your battery gets drained..) , you might loose the shot.... Also be very carefull doing really long exposures, as. sensors do heat up, and you still might get red "stains" in your pictures, or burn out the sensor.. Here is some other reading on this subject with usefull links in it : http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00UD23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 <blockquote> <p>"..one press of the remote opens the shutter, the next press of the remote closes the shutter."</p> </blockquote> <p>That may be true for some remotes, but not all. Usually the B (Bulb) setting only opens the shutter for as long as you have your finger on the release. Some remote wireless triggers have a 3 (or 5) second delay, so that if you keep the release pressed for more than 3 - 5 seconds, the release locks the shutter open until it's pressed again. This mode is usually indicated by an LED going off or staying on, or whatever.<br /> Reading the instructions that came with the remote would be a good idea!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nathansanborn Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 <p>Joe, this is true for the Nikon ML-L3 wireless remote... you are all correct in that the best place to answer questions like this is the cameras manual.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo_joe1 Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 <p>Don't think the D300s has an IR receiver for the cheap MLL3. I think you have to use a remote that plugs into the 10 pin accessory socket, and these vary from make to make - unless you're rich enough to shell out for Nikon's overpriced bit-of-wire-and-a-switch.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CvhKaar Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 //'Don't think the D300s has an IR receiver for the cheap MLL3. I think you have to use a remote that plugs into the 10 pin accessory socket, '/ Agree to that . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pushkarrajsharma Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 <p>yes guys i hv ml-l3 will it work for long shutters . ? i just see 1 button and no slider in it .. or interval clicks are the best options ??</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjoerd_leeuwenberg Posted April 2, 2012 Share Posted April 2, 2012 <p>Better get another remote or camera, as guys above have said, the two are not compatible:<br> <a href="http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Remote-Cords/4730/ML-L3-Wireless-Remote-Control-(Infrared).html#tab-ProductDetail-ProductTabs-CompatibleWith">http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Remote-Cords/4730/ML-L3-Wireless-Remote-Control-(Infrared).html#tab-ProductDetail-ProductTabs-CompatibleWith</a><br> Also make sure you try at another location before the trip, have a small flashlight and keep in mind that batteries have less power at low temperatures, It wouldn't surprise me that the battery will be drained on the second picture noise reduction cycle.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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