Follow-up & further question on: Proper luminance for print matching

[jettlich]

<p>I saw an October forum discussion called "Proper luminance for print matching." My question goes a bit further so I thought I'd post my own inquiry, as somewhat related to the last.<br>

I just got a new monitor, the <strong>HP ZR24W 24" Wide LCD Computer Display</strong>. A couple months ago, I also just started color calibrating with the <strong>ColorMunki Display by X-rite</strong>.<br>

I recently got pictures back from Shutterfly. Some were auto-corrected and some had no-correction so I could see the difference and compare both color and luminance.<br>

In comparing the prints to the images on my monitor, with Color Munki at the 120 luminance level (which is how I had it set at first), my monitor was WAY brighter than both the auto-corrected prints, and the non-corrected prints (especially brighter than the non-corrected prints).<br>

I then redid my color calibration and <em>chose</em> 90 as my luminance. It's much, much closer now. In fact, I'm satisfied with the <em>color matching</em>. But my question is - should I go as low as 80 on <em>luminance</em>, JUST to attempt to match this batch of Shutterfly non-corrected pictures? Or, should I always have my monitor set to some 'low' industry standard (like 90-110, and never go below)?<br>

I know I shouldn't adapt to wrong luminance or wrong color to match a printer that may be totally out of whack! But where's the balance? <br>

Thanks a ton for your help.</p>

[digitaldog]

<p>First off: <br>

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/why_are_my_prints_too_dark.shtml<br>

Next issue is Shutterfly which appears to be a non color managed workflow. You have a profile to soft proof with (and you know they are using it)? <br>

80cd/m2 is really low, hard if not impossible for a modern LCD to hit. Raise the print viewing conditions. </p>

[danny_wong2]

<p>Calibration works only when all steps of the production process are managed, controlled and calibrated.<br>

Are your printing files sent after proofing with a calibrated monitors and set to the printer(the actual machine)'s profile? Are your prints viewed under the controlled lighting environment of a viewing station?<br>

At my printer, when I sent in a printing order, I have to specify which printed I have prepared the files for and what is the date of the profile that I am using.<br>

Before any major printing order I also check to see if my profile for that printer at my lab is up to date on my workstation.</p>

 

[jettlich]

<p>Thanks for your responses thus far.<br>

I should make note of my workspace: My work area is in the basement office/schoolroom w/ only a 2'x3' window, on the wall of the monitor. So there's not varying, big window light to have to account for each time I'm editing. However, the one light we have in this room is on the upper wall to the left of the workspace and it's a typical four-flourescent-tube light, flattened horizontally on the wall. It's a consistent light, though, no matter what time of day I'm working! And in theory, shouldn't Color Munki (which I have adjusting every 5 mins., I believe) be always adjusting to this constant light source in the room? Anyway, just wonder if my workspace lighting may be accounting for any of this, or if my calibration tool would be adjusting with that.</p>

[Robin Smith]

<p>The output file does not have to be set to any printer profile. That is done by the printing service, but it does need to be output in the right color space for your printer. They usually request sRGB. Are your output files in this color space?</p>

<p>You could use their printer profile if you want to soft-proof, but unless the pics are very demanding I personally don't find this necessary.</p>

[jettlich]

<p>Thanks again.<br>

Yes, I now have my images set to sRGB, which is what Shutterfly uses. I just calibrated again. Again - the color looks just about right on. But the prints, even in a controlled viewing light, look darker (about .25-.5 exposure) than what I see on my screen.<br>

Do I dare keep my monitor luminance controlled at 90 but over-brighten or over-expose my images during editing to accommodate the printer's seeming darkness?<br>

I don't want to edit all my pictures just to match one company's seeming darkness, but what else to do?<br>

Thanks.</p>

[emil_ems5]

<p>What you are experiencing is the difference between a projected and a reflective image. The contrast range of a reflective image will always be lower than that of the image on the screen, unless you proof your image (in Photoshop) with the appropriate profile for the paper. If you have no proofing equipment whatsoever, i would suggest you the following adjustment to a finished picture, before you convert it to sRGB:<br>

(a) Put in an adjustment layer with a curve. Apply Photoshop's "Darker" option and have the layer opacity set at 25%.<br>

(b) Put another adjustment layer with a curve on top of (a). Apply Photoshop's "Linear Contrast" option and have the layer opacity set at 100%.<br>

The resulting picture will look a bit too light and contrasty on your screen, but the printed image will be a reasonable match with your screen image without those two layers.</p>