Advice on recomposing frame on a portrait shot

[cash_chew]

<p>Normally when I take portrait photos (fairly still subject), I like to use AF-S with single point AF so that I can move focus point around to focus on eye or face, and then recompose the frame (focus points don't cover the whole frame, therefore recomposing the frame to my likes for off center subject) before releasing the shutter. There are times that the pictures were not as sharp due to shallow DOF or frame recomposition. Any better alternative of taking sharp picture other than increasing aperture number?<br>

Some veterans here like to use AF-ON button to activate focus, while other use half-shutter pressed (including myself). What are the pros and cons on this? If I need to take still and moving subject, can I just set the camera to AF-C all the time and still be able to take still portrait and recompose frame using AF-ON button to do focus activation only? This is the only thing I can think of that the half-shutter will not lock the focus on AF-C mode when you recompose. Any drawback on this approach taking still portrait?</p>

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[lornesunley]

<p>If you are using an AF-S lens just twist the focus ring to get the subject in focus after you have the subject framed the way you want ...</p>

[robert_hooper1]

<p>Focus on the nearest eyebrow instead of an eye.</p>

[jose_angel]

<p><em>"If I need to take still and moving subject, can I just set the camera to AF-C all the time and still be able to take still portrait and recompose frame using AF-ON button to do focus activation only?"</em><br /> That`s the way I work; the shutter release button "only" activates the meter (you can lock the metering as well with the AE-L button). My camera is permanently at AF-C mode, for everything.</p>

<p>In my experience, for e.g., a close face portrait it`s more secure to select a focus point closer to the subject eye(s) and re-focus/re-check focus several times before pressing the shutter release button (it takes a while to shoot, the same time your subject can change his/her expression). The <em>focus and recompose</em> procedure is not always "safe".</p>

<p>I get perfectly focused pics using this procedure, even wide open with f1.4 lenses. No DoF issues.</p>

<p>But what is impossible cannot be done, obviously. A head shot, swinged face, cannot have both eyes in focus shooting wide open. Or you have your subject`s eyes parallel to the film/lens plane or you need to close the diaphragm in order to have both in focus.</p>

<p>I see lots of head portraits with one eye only in focus, the other blurred. I hate this. Even shooting at f8, you will get a nice, reasonable shallow DoF, maximum sharpness and background separation for formals. Personally, unless looking for a special effect, I don`t use to shoot a head portrait wider than f4.</p>

[hans_janssen]

<p>Why don't you try it yourself?</p>

[ilkka_nissila]

<p>I use AF-ON in continuous focusing mode with release+focus priority. I select the closest focusing point to the subject's nearest eye (when working with a wide aperture in particular) and press AF-ON until the subject appears in focus. Then I let go of the button and if necessary, recompose slightly before taking the shot. This works for me but may not be ideal for you.</p>

[CvhKaar]

<p>Another possibility :<br>

When using your cam onm a tripod, composing and focussing for portraits works realy nice in LiveView mode, and even bether when tethered to a video screen....</p>

[rodeo_joe1]

<p>Moving the camera after composing will change the point of focus. Imagine the plane of focus as a line or plane parallel to the back of the camera. As you swing the camera from side to side or up and down, one side of that plane will move away from the camera while the other side moves toward it. So of course the point of focus will move with it, toward or away from the camera. That's even if the subject or yourself don't rock backward or forward unknowingly.</p>

<p>Two ways to cure the problem. Compose first and, after composing, move the camera's focus point using the four-way "joystick" switch, then focus just before tripping the shutter. Or as C.P.M suggested, use Liveview. However, many portrait specialists prefer to use a bit more depth of field and talk to, or watch their subject directly, without having their eye glued to the back of the camera and fiddling with focus all the time.</p>

[cash_chew]

<p>I have a D80 since its first debut, and it does not have an AF-ON button, and I like to use AE/AF button for AE lock, and the function button cannot be used for focus activation, and I use it for Flash Lock. I borrowed a D700 from my friend to play with, and kinda like the idea of extra AF-ON button. Sometimes I have to increase the aperture not because I want a very shallow DOF, but to increase shutter speed while keeping ISO up to 400 for my D80. As a hobbyist, wish that I can afford a D7000 soon if not a D700.</p>

 

[raczoliver]

<p>Cash, the AE/AF button on the D80 can be set to activate autofocus with one of the custom settings.</p>

[cash_chew]

<p>Oliver, yes I was thinking of that too, but I like to use it for exposure lock since I can't assign Func button for exposure lock or Focus On purpose.</p>