Help Lighting Objects Behind Glass!

[bazz farazz]

<p>Hi everyone! First off I hope this the right place to post this question. I have been asked by my school's museum to photograph all the different artifacts that are on display. One of the big challenges I'm needing help with is with objects in glass display cases. I am allowed to use lighting equipment so no worries on just being able to use available light. They are looking for a stock image and nothing artsy.<br>

My equipment I have:<br>

Canon 50D<br>

Canon 50mm f/1.4<br>

Canon 17-55 f/2.8<br>

Canon 70-200 f/4<br>

Canon 580EX II<br>

1- Alien Bee 800<br>

1- 32x40 Softbox<br>

1- Alien Bee Ringflash<br>

1- Softbox for ringflash (moon unit)<br>

1- 22" 5-in-1 foldable reflector<br>

and my tripod<br>

I hope that I have provided enough adequate information and thanks in advance! </p>

 

[devon_mccarroll]

<p>A circular polarizer should help when shooting through glass.</p>

[tjfuss]

<p>I would consider shooting at an angle to the glass with a large sheet of black foam-core placed where it is what's reflected by the glass. Then, place whatever lighting you're using outside of the family of angles that are "seen" by the taking lens - including all the reflected angles. The closer your lens is to the glass, the easier it will be to control the reflections.</p>

[Charles_Webster]

<p>Can you not remove the objects from the display cases? Doing so would make your job immensely easier and allow you to do a better job of framing and lighting objects.</p>

<p><Chas></p>

[frolickingbits]

<p>I agree with Chas-if you are shooting for the museum, you should be able to move the objects. You would probably need a conservator and curator there to move the items, depending on how strict the museum is with object handling policies, but it can definitely be done. I do a decent amount of work for museums, and everything I shoot is brought onto the photo set. <br>

But, if they can't be moved, light the display cases from the sides, get a big sheet of black cloth, and a cable release. You are going to want to cover your tripod, and probably gaffer tape any of the logos and non black parts of your cameras. And I usually shoot with at least a 100mm when I'm photographing objects under glass, the farther away I am, the less chance their is of me being reflected. No need for a polarizer if you light it right, but it wouldn't hurt, you should have enough power with your Bees to not need the extra stop of light.</p>

[jcuknz]

<p>If the objects are stationary you can use longer exposures and less light, but results may be soft and need working up in editing.<br>

Whatever lights you use should be tightly controlled with snoots so the light goes where you need it and not spilloing all around the place. You will only get reflections if the objects in the glass are lit by stray light to a 'photographic' level. It is easier to snoot flash than hot lights which need metal shields, flash is quite happy with temporary cardboard. But unless the flash have pilots lights it is trial and error to get shadows where you want them to show the form of the subject.<br>

Considering the time it takes to organise a good lighting arrangement the idea of having moveable objects brought to your 'set' appeals to me very much :-)</p>

[User_5888660]

<p>Get the book "Light:Science and Magic." It covers at length how to shoot glass and metal objects so as to avoid problems with the light reflecting into the camera. </p>