Between these cameras...

[baachitraka_.]

<p>- Pentax K1000<br>

- Olympus OM-1<br>

- Minolta SRT-101<br>

which one you will choose, when your choice of FL is 35mm, 85mm and 135mm?</p>

[richterjw]

<p>I choose the OM, because I have always wanted one. I had a K1000 for a couple of days once, before trading it - I have since regretted that decision. I currently have an SRT 202, which I quite like...along with the 35mm and 135mm I have for it, so it's certainly not a bad decision to go that route. Have I thoroughly avoided making this an easier decision?</p>

[craigd]

<p>They're all good. I have an OM-2N and an SR-T 201. If you like compact size and don't mind having the shutter speed control be a ring around the lens mount rather than a knob on top, then an OM-1 or -2 is a fine choice. The SRT is somewhat larger and heavier, but also a fine camera that is a pleasure to shoot.</p>

<p>One issue with either the OM-1 or the SR-T 101 is that they take 1.3V mercury batteries, which may not be available depending on what country you're in. You can use Wein zinc-air 1.35V batteries, which work well but have fairly short life (a few months); or you can have a good camera repairman modify the camera to work with 1.5V batteries.</p>

<p>The K1000 has the advantage that it takes SR44 (silver oxide) or LR44 (alkaline) batteries, which are common these days. I've never used one, though.</p>

<p>The later OM-1N and OM-2N models also take SR44/LR44 batteries.</p>

[ken_jeanette1]

<p>K1000. Primordially simple, rugged and if you build up the K-Mount lenses, you have your choice of cameras they can mate to, if you should want a change (Chinon, Sears, Ricoh, Chinese and even some Russian cameras have K Mount). If you go with OM or Minolta, you would have to buy their bodies in the future</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>The Pentax, since you get into the huge K-mount (and M42 mount) lens inventory. Also you aren't in "mercury battery hell", which you are with the OM-1 or SRT-101.<br>

But, there are better choices than the K1000. At least consider the KM, which is exactly the same camera but with DOF preview and self-timer. DOF preview is an important feature. Also, a KM is often cheaper than a K1000. Plus, all KM's are built in Japan to high quality.<br>

More upmarket is the MX, which is as small as the OM-1, and has almost as good a viewfinder. Very high magnification. Not a great camera for eyeglass wearers, poor eye relief.<br>

Even more upmarket is the LX, which is just a superbly usable camera. The viewfinder isn't as large as the MX, but it has great eye relief, very bright, easy to focus. Superb light metering.<br>

Then get Pentax-M 35/2.8, Pentax-M 85/2.0, and Pentax-M 135/3.5 for economical compact lenses. At a higher budget, get Pentax-M 35/2.0, SMC Pentax 85/1.8, and SMC Pentax 135/2.5. Actually, 35/2.0 isn't that expensive, often easier to find than the 35/2.8. But the 85/1.8 is dreadfully rare and expensive.</p>

[darin_cozine]

<p>I'd go with the Minolta. The lenses are less expensive on the used market.</p>

 

[jean_yves_mead]

I'd pick the OM on the grounds that the Olympus SLRs are not only part of an excellent system, but they also offer superb lenses and some of the brightest and best finders of their generation. The OM-1 is a metered manual camera, so batteries aren't strictly necessary.

 

Actually I'd look for a tidy OM-2N, but that's just me.

[baachitraka_.]

<p>@<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=6106234">Craig Dickson</a>: May I know from which serial number does Om-1n takes 1.5v battery.</p>

[john_robison3]

<p>OM-1 or 1n.<br /> Big vf, still plenty of lenses around, DOF preview,(something the K1000 lacks) and simple handling.</p>

<p>As to the battery, get the 12 pack of #675 hearing aid batteries. Mine last 4~6 months each and the readings are close enough.</p>

<p>Also interchangeable focusing screens but to be fair it is now hard to find specific screens. However, my personal opinion is to look for the 1-10 plain matte with grid lines, no distracting split wedge or shimmering micro prism collar to distract you from concentrating on your composition.</p>

<p>You mention 3 lenses.<br /> The 35mm f2.8 Zuiko is reasonably priced, about $75~100, compact and a good choice all around.<br /> The 85mm f2 Zuiko is very expensive, $250~350, but this is true for most camera brand 85mm lenses.<br /> The 135mm f3.5 Zuiko is a about $50~75 and is a neat lens. The 135mm f2.8 is larger, takes 55mm filters (the 35 f2.8 and 85f 2 filter size is 49mm) and of course costs more.<br /> As an alternative to the 85mm lens check out a 100mm f2.8, they can be had for about 60% of the price of an 85, sometimes even less.<br /> Also, look for a 50mm 1.8, cheap and fast for low light and there is a reason they call this focal length 'normal'.</p>

<p>These considerations are for the US market, other locations around the globe may vary.</p>

<p>Note; all OM-1 and 1n models take the 1.35v mercury battery. If you want, Camtech (www.zuiko.com) in NY, USA can convert to 1.5v silver oxide as part of a regular CLA. They do excellent work.</p>

[craigd]

<p>@Mohindar, you don't need to worry about serial numbers in this case. If the camera says "OM-1N" or "OM-2N", then it takes 1.5V batteries.</p>

<p>A couple of people have mentioned the big, bright viewfinders of the OM-1/OM-1N/OM-2/OM-2N cameras. You really have to see these to believe them; you'd never think such a compact camera could give you such a large viewfinder image. Looking into the viewfinder was what really convinced me to buy an OM-2N.</p>

[baachitraka_.]

<p>Will there be any deviation in the metered value, when using 1.5v battery though rating is 1.35v?</p>

[craigd]

<p>It depends on how Olympus designed the electronics. The Pentax Spotmatic, originally designed to take 1.3V batteries, works just fine with 1.5V, but some other cameras designed for 1.3V can behave very strangely when given 1.5V (as my favorite repairman once put it, "The meter will be completely non-linear!"). You'd have to try it and see if you find the results satisfactory at a variety of light levels. The only OM I've ever used is the OM-2N, so I haven't had the opportunity to experiment with this.</p>

[walter_degroot]

<p>the olympus is the best camera. but also may be the hardest to find a 85mm lens that will fit.<br>

the minolta is a good solid camera and many bodies/cameras are available, but again possibly fewer lenses out there to round out your system.<br>

the K1000 was the most popular, and as said, many other cameras share the same lens mount.<br>

which makes getting lenses a bit easier.<br>

However there is one thing WRONG with the K1000., it is too popular<br>

and for years was the camera of choice for photo classes , demended even several years after it was discontinued ( by luddite professors)<br>

another K mouput camera would be my choice.<br>

the build quality may not be as good as a pentax, but the other K cams,<br>

may have metal shutters . the k1000 is good but old, I would not refuse to buy one.<br>

but the others like Ricoh,cosina, chinon, sears, vivitar are newer.<br>

http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/K-Cams/?yguid=158556187<br>

Whichever one you choose, you will enjoy using it.<br>

the differences are small</p>

<p> </p>

[john_robison3]

<p>The OM-1n does NOT take the 1.5v battery. That information is wrong. I have had 3 OM-1n bodies and all of them took the 1.35v mercury battery. As I said, I have used 1.4v #675 hearing aid batteries in my unconverted OM-1 and the readings are really close to what I get in my Camtech converted OM-1 body. All meters will vary a little, even when properly calibrated. The OM-1 and 1n are fully mechanical and will operate without a battery throughout it's shutter speed range. The OM-2 and 2n have electronically timed shutters and without their batteries are a paper weight. That said, the OM-2 cameras are very reliable and don't seem to have many circuit failures. The only thing to keep in mind with the OM-2 and 2n is that you should carry a spare set of batteries because the camera won't operate without them. With my OM-1, if the battery dies I just go on shooting with a handheld meter of judge exposure by eye. I even have a very old OM-1 that has a dead meter that I still use with my other 2 OM-1 cameras.</p>

<p>To misquote a very old line from a John Ford movie, 'Meters....meters? We ain't got no meters. We don't need no stinken meters!</p>

[luis_g]

<p>I own several OM-1n and have a lot of the OM lenses.</p>

[craigd]

<p>John, thanks for the correction. For some reason I have been thinking for a long time that the OM-1N took SR44/LR44 batteries, but I see that the OM FAQ says otherwise:</p>

<p><a href="http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/olympus.faq.html#ques_B1">http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/olympus.faq.html#ques_B1</a></p>

<p>It says that the OM-1 and OM-1N both take 1.3V mercury cells, while the OM-2, OM-2N, and OM-2SP all take LR44/SR44 1.5V batteries. So if Mohindar is more concerned about using modern, easily-available batteries than about whether the camera will work without batteries, he would be better off with an OM-2 or 2N than with a 1 or 1N. It all depends on how comfortable he is shooting without a meter.</p>

<p>Mohindar, sorry for the incorrect information.</p>

[steve m smith]

<blockquote>

<p>Will there be any deviation in the metered value, when using 1.5v battery though rating is 1.35v?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The easy way to tell is to look to see how the meter indicates correct exposure. If correct exposure is shown by the meter needle resting in the middle of its travel and that is also its resting position when switched off, then it is a bridge circuit and will operate correctly on a wide range of voltages.</p>

<p>However, if the meter position changes with light level and you have to line up a second needle or indicator with it to get correct exposure then it is likely to be affected by variations in the cell voltage. The needles on this type of metering circuit will rest at one end of their travel when switched off.</p>

[baachitraka_.]

<p>@<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=6106234">Craig Dickson</a>: No problem, I was also reading olypedia.de/OM and it said Om-1n takes old mercury battery.<br>

Interestingly, my friend just now tested with 1.35v and 1.5v on Om-1n and told both showed the same metered values.<br>

If I buy one, I will never use 1.5v without an adapter, since I am too afraid about the old electronics that governs the metered values may get burned.<br>

If possible, I would like to own three bodies for 35mm, 85mm and 135mm. Yeah, kind of crazy but the overall cost is still less then EF 50mm f1.4 lens. 2 OM-1ns and 1 OM-2SP.</p>

 

[starvy]

<p>Mohinder,<br>

I love OM bodies. However, the lens choice would make this expensive. The 35 is expensive. The 85 is really really expensive (I think 90/2 is one of the really sought after lenses) but 135 3.5 is not too dear.</p>

[tomscott]

<p>If you want 3 separate bodies I would have to recommend the Minoltas as they are a good bit less expensive than the Olympus bodies and lenses or the Pentax lenses.</p>

[starvy]

<p>I forgot to add, the Minolta and Pentax might offer cheaper lenses.</p>

[john_robison3]

<p>Also be aware the OM-2sp and OM-2(N) are NOT the same camera. I have an OM-2sp obtained as a back cap for a 40mm f2 lens I wanted. The camera store sold me the lens and threw in the -2sp body for free because it was eating through a set of button cells in about a week. I took it home and with careful management could get 3 weeks out of a set of batteries. That body sat in my camera junk box for about a year and then I decided to see if I could run it off of AAA cells. I built an 'L' grip that takes 2 AAA batteries with a contact in the battery compartment and the circuit completed through the screw connection to the tripod threads. Works fine and now batteries last 3 years. The greedy little beast does not seem to care where it's gets it's 3v from. I don't like the feel of the OM-2sp, at least compared to my OM-1's the film advance feels like your grinding coffee beans. The shutter release also has an odd 'ker-plap' sound I guess caused by the complicated mirror/sub-mirror arrangement. I guess a -2sp body is OK if it does not eat batteries but be cautious in this area.</p>

[baachitraka_.]

<p>@<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2403095">Starvy Goodfellows</a>: I never owned any 85mm till now and the cheapest digital 85mm(any brand) goes over Euro 400. So, it is not a bad idea to invest on a zuiko glass. In future, I may use this to shoot videos with a digital SLR.<br>

I am biased to 135/2.8.<br>

More over, I prefer 35mm FOV so this will be my walk-around lens.</p>

 

[baachitraka_.]

<p>@<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=1500304">john robison</a>: Do you have any photos of 'L' grip.?</p>

[baachitraka_.]

<p>I presume mechanical cameras goes well with tele primes say 85 or 135mm because meter just see only the narrow confined area. So my choice is based on performance of lenses esp., 85 <-> 135.</p>