Making photos with an F1

[John D]

<p>My, what you do forget, I had asked a question about servicing an F1 and some kind soul sugested just going ahead and making some photos with it, which I have done. First off, the batteries recommended, the 675s do work. The meter is pretty good. I shot color negative stuff and it is surely accurate enough for that. I think I would want an external meter for E6 stuff though. <br>

What has surprised me is the viewfinder. The finder itself is pretty good. Nice and bright in daylight and not too bad indoors but the focusing is another story. I remember now missing lots of hurried shots many years ago. I anticipate the same thing all over again. The focusing screen is the E type which was the laser cut variety. I find that half of the rf spot is unuseable much of the time. I am focusing by trying the surrouding microprism collar and that is questionable. The ground glass itself is not too bad though. I suspect a different screen would help. What do those who use these beasts regularly recommend? I see some for sale on the big auction site but thought I would ask before I spend money for something which is no better than what I already have.</p>

[Ken Katz]

I used an F1 and the type E screen for many years and generally found it worked quite well. 1/2 of the split image range finder will black out if you are using slow lenses, (like an f5.6), and become somewhat unusable, but with faster lenses (f2.8 or faster), it is quite accurate in low light or heavy back-lite situations (as long as you have a straight line on your subject in order to get the RF to work). At the end of the day its still slower focusing than an EOS camera with USM lenses.

[gerry_morgan]

<p>John, that's odd about your laser (L) "E" screen. I use this same screen with my F-1n, and it is absolutely superb and "spot-on" with its focusing. I mainly use this screen with largish-aperture, medium-to-wide angle fixed focal length lenses.</p>

<p>What are your lenses of choice? If you like the concept of the split/microprism screen, maybe you should try a different sample of the LE screen. I definitely recommend the laser screen over the first-generation "E" screen – to me it makes an unbelievable difference in image brightness.</p>

<p>Another consideration – could something in your F-1's light path be out of alignment?</p>

[paul_wheatland]

<p>I also find the "E" screen the best all around for general photography. Should the center split image darken just get used to using the surrounding area of the screen. By the way the origiginal F-1 from 1971 to 1976 and the F-1n from 1976 to 1981 use the same screens. Both cameras are non electronic and operate all speeds without battery power. The button battery merely operates the match needle exposure meter, and is now other than the banned mercury PX625. I made an adapter to use 357 battery or you can use hearing aid 675 with a DIY sleeve adapter. If your camera is 1981 or newer, it's a Canon F-1New and is electronic/ mechanical and relies on battery and screens may be different and do not interchange with previous Canon F-1 or F-1n. Hope this helps!</p>

[John D]

<p>Perhaps further explanation is in order. I have been using a Micro lens. The 100mm f4 to be specific. F4 may just be borderline for seeing a darkened rf patch with some frequency. I also now wear tri-focals which I did not have to use 30plus years ago. When Canon abandoned the breech lock mount for auto focus I abandoned Canon. I am well aware of the camera I have and I do understand the light meter function. The camera I am using is 1980 Lake Placid marked. It was my wifes camera. I sold mine many years ago. I do not have to get used to anything of this nature. Focus is pretty easy any more and digital is way superior to film in almost all 35mm applications. This camera is of little importance. I was just curious about it and decided to try it after many years of sitting idle, the camera, not me. I will also use it some with the 50/1.4 to see if the same obscuring occurs so often. I have just sent some film off for processing so it will be interesting to see what comes back.</p>

[jim_bielecki1]

<p>I've pretty much use the "L" surface "C" screen for all of my work with the F-1 (original). I just prefer focusing using the all-matte surface. </p>

<p>BTW, I own every focusing screens Canon made for the original F-1, all with the "L" surface.</p>

[philip_wilson]

I am not sure which F1 you have. The first two models have a mechanical MLU/self timer on the left of the lens as you

look ATT them. They were designed for 1.35 V mercury cells so the meter is off with 1.5V cells unless they are

adjusted. To my knowledge there are only 4 screens A to D so there is no E screen. The New F1 takes 13screens

the most common being AE - the E screen came with Average, Partial, and Spot metering. However it takes Modern

1.5V batteries (either 4x1.5v or 1x6V). Which one do you have?

 

By the way check your prism and screen are fitted correctly as it should bee very brought unless you have an F5.6 or

slower lens

[t._kim]

<p>The OP stated he has the Lake Placid model, which makes it an F-1n. By this time, there were 9 screens labeled A through I.</p>

<p>@ John Dahlstet<br /> I'm afraid you have the brightest and easiest-to-use screen already. Seeing that you have tri-focals, I do think a split-prism focusing aid is the best option. Unfortunately there are only two that have this, B and E, of which the laser cut E is superior. With that said, could your screen be a bit dirty? Or not mounted securely, as already mentioned? The last option is the get it cleaned and adjusted. Even prisms have been known to get out of whack.</p>

[rick_janes]

<p>John, having used my own FD 100/4 macro recently I absolutely agree it's not the easiest thing to focus- it is neither bright nor snappy, and split-image blackout happened unless I was super precise with eye positioning (i.e. perfectly on-axis). You shouldn't have that problem with the 50/1.4!<br>

I do equip my F-1s with the proper dioptric adjustment eyepieces also, they really improve the interface between a viewfinder and me: focusing aids are clearer, and I can put the naked eye where it needs to be.</p>

[philip_wilson]

<p>T Kim - I assume there must be another post as I cannot see any mention of the Lake Placid model or the 100 macro in this post. For what it is worth I find the 100 F4 fine to focus unless I have the extension tube mounted. Similarly the 50 F3.5 works fine on my earlier F1 (and my later New F1s)</p>

[gerry_morgan]

<p>John, I think I understand what your issue with the "E" focusing screen is probably related to, now that you mentioned that you're using the FD 100mm f/4 Macro lens. This lens has a <strong>*large* </strong>helical extension range, and while it may be quite usable at infinity focus with the "E" screen, as you crank the focusing ring towards minimum focusing distance the lens elements move farther and farther away from the lens mounting flange very quickly, resulting in a significant light loss. So, from the viewer's perspective, the focusing screen may start looking like he's using an f/5.6 aperture lens. Throw the Extension Tube 50 between the lens and camera and it probably starts looking more like f/8 or worse.</p>

<p>As others have mentioned, you may find focusing easier with this lens by using an all-matte screen, or one of my favorites, the Grid ("D") screen. Good luck!</p>

[mwmcbroom]

<p>John, when I first started shooting a lot with my old F-1, I found that for much of the work I was doing, the E screen's focusing aids were hindrances most of the time. I was doing a lot of telephoto work, where my fastest tele was f/2.8, but most were f/4 and slower. So I switched to a plain matte screen -- the C screen. Don't recall now if it was the laser version or not, but I do have the LC in the F-1n I currently own. I just got used to focusing with a plain matte screen all those years ago, and got to where I prefer it. Ever since then, every camera I've owned that has replaceable focusing screens has gotten a matte screen.</p>

<p>It takes a bit of practice getting used to no focusing aids but for me it wasn't all that hard to do. And it was worth it getting rid of the distractions when they weren't doing what they were supposed to.</p>

[User_4754088]

<p>Hi John, I had the same problem with the F-1 "E" screen, though mine wasn't a laser cut one. I got a "C" screen for it and liked focusing with that much better. Don't use the F-1 anymore, but I do still have the "C" screen (not the laser cut one) if you'd be interested in it.</p>

<p>Best,<br>

-Tim</p>

[drpath]

<p>For high magnification photography, try screen I, and use flip up magnifier R. Screen I is very different from all others, projecting a bright aerial image in the central spot marked only by double cross hair reticules. In many frustrating years of doing medical microphotography, this is the only combination I have used which reliably acheives critical focus. Even my present rig of a live view digital (T1i) viewed and remotely controled on a monitor doesn't quite equal it.</p>