shutter speed up to 1/800s

[andoni_mesa_bravo]

<p>I have a question about shutter speed on hasselblads<br>

During a very sunny day and with the maximun shutter speed that hasselblal limits .At wich aperture do you shoot at 1/800s and trying to have DOF on the background?<br>

shooting with my nikon d3x at f5.6 i have to set my shutter speed at 1600 for right exposure and if i want to underexpose the background i have to go 1/3200...</p>

 

[JDMvW]

<p>What ISO?</p>

[andoni_mesa_bravo]

<p>iso 100</p>

[richardsperry]

I think you need some neutral density filters.

[leicaglow]

<p>If your ISO is 100, your corresponding shutter speeds (and I use "Sunny 11", not Sunny 16--unless it is sand or snow), would be:<br>

1/30 @ f/22<br>

1/60 @ f/16<br>

1/125 @ f/11<br>

1/250 @ f/8<br>

1/500 @ f/5.6</p><p>If you needed to shoot at f/22, to get more DOF, a ND filter is not what you need, but a tripod might be, as you slow the shutter speed down.</p><p>My problem in shooting portraits, is that I like to have less DOF. In this scenario, where I wanted to shoot an 80mm f/2.8 wide open, then I would need an ND4 filter to reduce the exposure by 2 stops to get from f/5.6 to f/2.8. Is that what you mean?</p><p>If you're shooting a 500 V series camera, you won't have 1/800th shutter speed, but you would if you're using a 200x (F) or Hx Hasselblad. Is that the camera you're using? An exact scenario would help also.</p>

[richardsperry]

Michael,

 

It is more common than it should be to call selective focus or very small depth of field,,, DOF. Considering that the OP

seems concerned that at f/5.6 he must shoot at 1/1600 or 1/3200 with his other camera, and his Hasselblad max

shutter speed is 1/800(which I assume is H series). That is to say, that if he wanted the background in focus he

could easily stop down to f/22 or so and be within/under the max shutter speed of his camera; no problem.

 

I will assume for now that he wants a small DOF to blur the background in sunlight, and that is the problem because it

is a problem. Until he clarifies, I'm pretty sure he wants a small depth of focus. A dark ND filter will give him the

ability to blur the background by using f/2.8 and still be within/under his max shutter speed in sunlight.

[russ_britt3]

<p>Guess what......you just load a slower film. Thats why film photographers carry extra film. I have been shooting with Hasselblads for well over 30 years, film cameras in general 4X5 on down to 35mm for over 45 years. <br />I have never found myself in a situation that I could not find a film speed suitable for the lighting conditions. I have never in my life needed neutral density filters, I just picked a slower film......and got finer grain at the same time. <br />It really does not have to be so complicated, that's why hasselblads have film backs that are easily changed mid roll.<br>

You really do not have to fight the system, just learn to use it as it is. I have found F5.6 with a 150mm to have a nice blurred background for portraits. I just don't load 800asa film in bright sunlight, but do use it closer to sunset.......Its just not really that hard. You need a good handheld light meter and knowledge to use it correctly.<br>

Hell you don't even need autofocuse and photoshop. Just some experience and knowledge.......shoot with the system a while before you try to add stuff thats not even needed.<br>

I usually carry 160 asa film up to 800 asa in my case for the hasselblad. In my canon F1 I can go as high as 3200 asa in B&W with some fast prime optics and have no problems even in low light.<br>

Film is not that hard.........is you just slow down and think.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

The question is how to achieve either shallow DoF in bright sunlight using a Hasselblad H-System digital camera with a limited ISO range.<br><br>The answer is: use ND filters.<br>Or select a lower ISO. That talk about high ISOs in the OP's question is going the wrong way: the higher the ISO, the greater the need for fast speeds and small apertures.<br><br>Or (more likely) the question is how to have lots of DoF while needing to use the fastest shutter speed using a Hasselblad H-System camera with limited ISO range.<br><br>The answer to that is: you can't. You cannot stop down further than light levels, ISO and fixed (by your wish for it to be) 1/800 shutter speed allow. As simple as that.<br>If the 1/800 isn't an absolute must, you simply use a slower speed.<br><br>If the question concerns using film in a Hasselblad H-Sysem camera: switch to a faster film.<br><br>Now, Andoni, what were you asking exactly?

[andoni_mesa_bravo]

<p>I sorry i have been working the hole day.<br>

My question was about the hasselblad h4d 40 system .<br>

Some time i like to shoot darken a bit the background wile i fill with a flash to make a lot of constrast in a sunny day.<br>

THE PHASE ONE 645DF CAMERA OFFERS 1/4000 SPEED BUT I REALLY LOVE THE HASSELBLAD SYSTEM H4D 40 FOR MANY REASONS BUT WITH A 1/800 SPEED AND ISO 100 I THINK MY ONLY SOLUTION IS TO PUT A ND FILTER ,BUT I ASUME THAT IT TAKES ME OFF A BIT OF IQ.<br>

Sorry i think i meant to less DOF so...more blured backgroud</p>

[JDMvW]

<blockquote>

<p>working the hole day</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Before I retired, I had a lot of days like that. ;)<br>

To reiterate:<br>

For less depth of field go for low ISO speed and fast shutter speed. ND filters can help go even more wide open, as it is the aperture that controls DOF. A tripod may be essential.</p>

[andoni_mesa_bravo]

<p>he,he,he i don t complain :-) i fill very relax wile i am working <br>

YEP I am gonna be honest with my needs.<br>

I love the hasselblad h4d 40 but i need faster s/speed at list up to 1/1600<br>

Since 4 years now i work with capture one and all my workflow in my hard disk are all about capture one structure<br>

Soo i think i will purchase the 645DF with p40+ with 80mm LS.<br>

I have a question about LEAF SHUTTER LENSES<br>

Do i have to mount another lens on the camera if i want to shoot at 1/4000 with the 80mm LS lens or the camera will use its own FOCAL PLANE shutter . FOR EXAMPLE<br>

I AM SHOOTING WITH THE 80MM LS lens at 1/800 and i want to go to 1/3200.<br>

Do i have to mount the non leaf shutter lens on the camera?<br>

another example:<br>

I AM SHOOTING WITH THE 80MM LS lens at 1/50 and i want to slow down to 3 second<br>

Do i have to mount the non leaf shutter lens on the camera?</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

You are considering changing camera system because of the software you currently use???

[andoni_mesa_bravo]

<p>I wish i have the hasselblad h4d 40 already :-b .<br>

The software at the end is soo important for me because i shoot 97% of the time tethered to the computer and for me is so important have all the settings i need to don t touch any color in photoshop : just to have a software where from the raw you can puss everything.<br>

For other side the 1/speed of the phase one 645df</p>

[ondebanks]

<p>No, you don't need to change to a non-LS lens to switch to the focal plane shutter on the 645DF. It will switch shutters automatically, or you can use custom functions to set your preferences/overrides.</p>

<p>You know, this is all detailed in the 645DF user manual - free to download from PhaseOne. If I were considering buying a new camera, one of the first things I would look at is the user manual.</p>

[fotografz]

<p>From your previous post: You want to shoot to darken the background and use fill flash to even out the light balance.</p>

<p>The 645D does not sync to 1/4000th ... it syncs to 1/1600 with certain camera/back/lens combinations, but not all ... the rest sync at 1/125th. 1600 helps a little but not as much as you may think compared to 1/800th ... (which is a bit conservative on Hasselblad's part IMO). More importantly to me is that <strong>all</strong> HC and HCD lenses in the entire system sync at up to 1/800th including the HC28mm, HC35mm, and HCD35-90.</p>

<p>The H4D/40's lowest ISO is 100. If you are exposing to darken the background then you simply need more light on the subject.</p>

<p>When shooting in bright ambient and you want to use wider aperture to limit the DOF, you need a faster shutter speed, so 1/4000th is quite helpful ... to do that with the H4D/40, you need a high quality multi coated ND filter ... personally, the few times I've run out of shutter speed I just use my B+W MC polarizer which I have with me anyway. </p>

<p>Hasselblad Phocus software is excellent, easy to use and very stable when tethered to a computer. The color is widely liked and extremely easy to adjust at the RAW level. It performs all DAC corrections without fiddling with it, and the individual eye dropper color correction tool is simply amazing ... I wish other RAW software had this tool.</p>

<p>BTW, I have C1Pro v 6.3.1 and Phocus v 2.6.4 on my Mac, and prefer both the color rendition and workflow of Phocus. </p>

<p>- Marc</p>

<p> </p>

[wolf_rainer_schmalfuss]

<p>I have my doubts, that the electronical controlled maximal shutter speed of 1/800s of the leaf shutter metal blades at the Fuji-Hasselblad glasses are real and constant!<br>

Only at the ROLLEIFLEX 6008 Zeiss and Schneider glasses, the electronical controlled special carbone leaf shutters blades where able to came close to 1/1000s.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

They are, Wolf-Rainer. No worries.

[wolf_rainer_schmalfuss]

<p>Q.G. de Bakker,<br>

sorry, in the hurry, I've forget the word <strong>NOT</strong>! I believe, the leaf shutters are not better than 1/500s! But, at least, this is just good enough for studio work.</p>

[q.g._de_bakker]

1/800 is only 2/3 of a stop faster than 1/500, still 1/3 off 1/1000, but "real and constant" that speed is.