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What to buy???? [New Portrait/Wedding Photographer]


catrina_mazzanoble

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<p>Hi, I am new to this so please bear with me. <br>

I have recently decided to change career paths and try my hand at portrait, wedding, event photography and need some advice. I have decided I want to buy Nikon....but which Nikon I can't decide. Do I need to spend $2700 on the D700 for its full-frame, or can I get away with a DX sensor? I am most concerned with image quality (resolution) and low-light shooting. I need to make sure that I can blow up images to at least 11x14 and maybe even 16X20 with out a ton of pixelation. Please recommend what may be the best options for me to consider. I have the budget for the D700, but if I can achieve great results from a body that is a little cheaper I can spend that money on other pieces of equipment...i.e., speedlight, lenses, etc. Which one is best SB600, 700, or 800??? And lastly, lens.....what are the best choices for location portraiture, weddings, party's, and commercial photography. <br>

I am totally green so any and all advice is most appreciated!!!!</p>

<p>Thanks!<br>

Catrina</p>

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<p>Hi Catrina, and welcome ..<br>

Maybe answer your question with a question .. ( i know, that's not really polite..:-) )<br>

What previous experience do you have as a photographer ? ( This would help to give you a better answer to your question...)</p>

<p>The subjects you are interrested in are so diverse to me, that I would not know how to think of a setup that would cover all ( all thjose subjects are demanding in a different way..) at an affordable price..<br>

i.e. for serious portrait you may need studio equipment, and for weddings ( the indoor part) you may need fast lenses etc. etc.<br>

Events , i would still ask : what type of events are you thinkiong off ? Sports is very different from pop-concert ans alike...</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Wow, Catrina, there are lots of questions here. </p>

<p>The key facts you stated above were 1) you're totally green and 2) you wish to do events/weddings/portraits as a career. To learn about what you need properly, you would need to read some good books on photography and research on the net. But since you have posted here, I figured you would probably want some quick brief responses to your questions.</p>

<p>First of all, knowing what I know, if I were you, I would invest more on the lenses than the body, as the body will be replaced frequently with better technology every two years or so. But lenses are worthwhile investments that last a long time. I'm glad you've decided on Nikon (as I'm a Nikonian...:)). For the body, I would not to go to D700 to start. Something like a D300s, D90 or D7000 will get you good quality high resolution images if executed properly. As for lenses, since you'd be shooting in relatively low light, you would need good prime fast lenses. Again, you would not need to spend thousands$$ to get top end professional lenses to start. There are a couple of good but affordable Nikkor lenses like 50mm f1.8 and 85mm f1.8 for example which are great for portraits. If you want to include a zoom lens, just make sure it's a fast one - anything f2.8 or faster would probably get you through low indoor lighting. As for speedlights, it depends whether or not you intend to use remote firing of additional flashes - SB800 is capable of that.</p>

<p>So the bottom line is that you do not need to get a high-end body, especially if you're just starting out - just a mid-high end model would do. But don't hesitate to invest on prime lenses, if you can afford them, as a) they are a crucial component in giving you decent shots in low light, b) they are not frequently replaced with better models every year, and c) they retain their resale value in case you decide they don't suit your needs any more in the future.</p>

<p>Hope you find this useful.</p>

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<p>C.P.M.,<br>

My experience as a photographer is mostly as a hobbyist. I have shot everything from friends kids to family weddings, black tie affairs, and the like. All of my experience has steamed from my passion as a photographer, and the willingness of my friends/family to allow me to shot at those said affairs. All and all I am very green(I was shooting a very old Canon 300D with 18-50mm 3.5-5.6 lens).<br>

I know I am all over the map with what I want to do...I am not even sure yet myself. I know that I want to make a career of taking photographs..I feel that although I am not technically proficient (YET) I have an "eye" for it coupled with a huge passion for it. <br>

As of right now, I am starting off apprenticing with a group of wedding photog's.<br>

What would you recommend to start off in that arena that would also lend itself to portraiture (not in a studio). <br>

I am most worried about buying a piece of equipment now that in a few years I will have to replace (although the more I read the more this seems inevitable).<br>

Should I spend the big bucks on the body or invest in great glass for now. Is the FX far more superior, or can I achieve the same results with the DX and the "right" lens? <br>

Also, how much does the equipment matter with all the changes done in the digital darkroom....<br>

Thank you in advance for helping me!!!</p>

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<p>Catrina:<br>

Considering what you have said I would take a serious look at the d7000. I do a good bit of professional gallery work with one and am very happy with it. My work is almost all portrait ant figure work with some still life images so I don't need a full frame camera very often. The lenses that I use with the d7000 have been mainly the 50mm f/1.4 D prime and the 17-55/ 2.8.<br>

I have not printed over 11X14 but that is simply because of my preference for somewhat smaller images. Another thing I have been happy about with this camera is the fantastic low light capability. I get excellent results at ISO 3200 and good results at 6400.<br>

Good luck.<br>

-Owen<br>

-</p>

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I just spent a weekend at a wedding with a borrowed D7000, new 50mm 1.8G and Tamron 28-75 2.8 and couldn't

have been happier. I wasn't the real photographer but if I had been I could have almost got away with it, given a good

flash. (That new 50mm 1.8 is phenomenal. Seriously killer lens.)

 

If I were you I'd see how much money I could avoid spending until I got things figured out better.

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<p>no better way than to jump right in, as long as you're willing to traverse the learning curve.<br>

to answer your most pressing question, what you don't want to do is get an expensive body and not have the right lenses for it. if budget is an issue, i would avoid FX until you can afford it. i have printed at 16x20 with 10mp DX DSLRs without any problem. even a d90, which is relatively inexpensive used, can be a decent wedding photography camera -- lenses (and flashes) are the bigger investment.<br>

typically, for weddings and other event-based photography, you need a 2.8 standard zoom and some telephoto capability, along with an external speedlight or two. you also need either high-ISO and/or fast primes for when flash isn't allowed, i.e. the actual ceremony. if you're on a budget,here's the basic kit i'd suggest:</p>

<ul>

<li>used d90.</li>

<li>tamron 17-50/2.8--wide/group shots.</li>

<li>sigma 50-150/2.8--portraits/closeups of faces.</li>

<li>nikon 35/1.8--candids and low-light.</li>

<li>2x sb-600; sc-29 sync cord (for off-camera flash)</li>

<li>reflector/stand (for formal shots)</li>

<li>4x 8g memory cards and portable HD or laptop backup (with a d90, there's only one card slot so switching out cards frequently and/or backing up immediately is a good idea)</li>

<li>extra battery</li>

</ul>

<p>that's enough to get you in the door. of course, i'd visit the wedding forum and read up on everything i could to have an idea of what to expect.<br>

everything else is just a fancier version of a basic kit. an upgrade might include:</p>

<ul>

<li>D7000 (more resolution, better AF, better high-ISO, 2 card slots, HD video)</li>

<li>Nikon 17-55/2.8 AF-S (faster AF)</li>

<li>Nikon 70-200/2.8 VRII (stabilized for low-light use)</li>

<li>Sb-700 or sb-900 speedlight (more features, easier remote use, can control other speedlights)</li>

<li>assistant (holds reflector)</li>

<li>backup body (as 2nd body or just in case)</li>

</ul>

<p>an FX kit is similarly a more expensive iteration of a DX kit</p>

<ul>

<li>D700 for D7000 (even better high-ISO, better for shallow DoF)</li>

<li>Nikon 24-70 for 17-55 (standard zoom in FX format)</li>

</ul>

<p>HTH</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>In the long term full frame is the way to go. However, the D700 and D3(s) are not worth purchasing at the moment, since Nikon will be updating them as soon as their situation allows. In general terms Canon is still ahead of Nikon in full frames. I'd be considering a used Canon 1DsII or new/refurb Canon 5D II.</p>
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<p>Since you already decided to become a professional photographer, so this is settled, no need to discourage you.</p>

<p>I suggest trying to become an amateur photographer, get some experience, build your portfolio, and then you will be on your way. All depends on your ability to learn and practice, and the time needed for transformation from an amateur to a pro could be short.</p>

<p>Good Luck!</p>

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<p>Relatively speaking, buying cameras and lenses is the easy part of wedding photography. The harder part is the business and interpersonal part of it. We have a Wedding Photography forum here on photo.net, and there are a lot of existing answers to newbie questions. For example, typically you are much better off assisting an established wedding photographer to learn the business first, and you probably should use compatible equipment with your business partner. Additionally, having backup cameras and lenses is critical should your primary equipment fails or is damaged (e.g. accidentally dropped onto the floor, etc.).</p>
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<p>1) No need to shell out for a D3 :) Go with a D300s or better yet find 2 really nice used D200s (which together should cost you less than half of a new D300s). Put the money saved into glass.<br>

2) lenses. A 28-70 f/2.8 or similar (a bit wider is nice but no requirement, maybe get a 20mm f/2.8 with it) is going to cover most of your wedding shots. Maybe get a 105mm f/2.8 and put that on that second body.<br>

3) Flash. The SB800 is a fantastic flash unit, don't leave home without it. Get the optional battery pack for it though, it greatly reduces the already short charging time and increases the time between battery changes (which of course is downtime, which you don't want during a day of shooting a wedding).<br>

4) not touched on yet: Get a sturdy midsize tripod. Something like a Manfrotto 0190CLB with a decent ballhead. And to go with that get the Nikon cable release that matches your chosen camera (there are several models, not every camera can take them all, check manuals and ask your dealer).<br />If you think you're going to be walking around a lot in dim light, get a decent monopod as well.<br>

The higher pixel count of the newer camera designs aren't going to be of much use, as you're not shooting pictures that will be printed onto billboards or advertising posters. The D200s 10mp is more than sufficient for what wedding customers want for size (mostly 4x6 prints, maybe a few 10x15s framed prints to hang on the wall, and a DVD with a slideshow to show on the TV for future memories).<br>

Someone mentioned a 70-200 f/2.8. Great lens, go with the Sigma EX lenses to save money (same for the other lenses, except for wide angle primes go with Nikon as they're worlds ahead of anyone else for those). But decide for yourself if you're going to use it enough to be worth the invesment (and that's both money and sweat lugging it around). It's a versatile lens, but in indoors situations it's a bit long and cumbersome to use.<br>

Additional: get spare batteries for everything. Carry at least 2 spares for every camera you bring (and as you want to bring 2 bodies, both for flexibility and security in case one fails, that means getting 4 extra batteries). Get rechargable batteries for your flash, saves money (SB800+battery pack take 10 AA size batteries, lasts several hundred shots, which should be enough for a day but don't take chances).<br />Buy several quality CF cards, I'd go with smaller ones (4GB) rather than the 8GB+ cards after having several of those fail in the field, loosing hundreds of shots each time, and switch to a fresh card regularly. Carrying something like a netbook or external harddrive with card reader to back up your work in every spare moment is a good idea as well.<br>

That's quite an initial layout, but shouldn't be much more than $3500 total (not counting the netbook/notebook).</p>

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<p>If you're serious about the career change, don't buy old used gear or cheap out on lenses. You'll just have to spend more money replacing them in the coming years. Buy high quality lenses that you can grow with. A Nikor 24-70mm 2.8 is expensive, but it is a workhorse that will easily be useful for a dozen years. As for bodies, the D7000 would be a nice compromise if you can't afford the d700. That said, never shoot a wedding with just one body, too risky.<br>

Oh, and don't forget insurance for your business.<br>

Also, take a few minutes to read this: <a href="http://laurencekim.com/2011/04/28/the-photography-business-and-the-american-dream/">http://laurencekim.com/2011/04/28/the-photography-business-and-the-american-dream/</a></p>

 

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<p>You are making the classic beginner's mistake regarding photo gear. You are putting the most emphasis on a camera. The camera is the least important thing. For portraits, the difference between a snapshot and a pro portrait is the lighting. I suggest buying a pair of monolights with modifiers, battery pack Also buy a Nikon SB-700 or SB-900 to use as a third light and also use in mobile situations such as wedding receptions, events. You need f2.8 zooms also, and these are expensive. With whatever is left, buy a camera.</p>

<p>Ken ti SD</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>The camera is the least important thing.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Kent, I am afrad that comment itself is misleading. Today in the digital era, the difference among camera bodies is also important. In each new generation of new DSLRs, I see improvements that helps my photography. That is why I have been updating my cameras on a regular basis.</p>

<p>The D3, D3S, and D700 allow us a lot more flexibility in shooting weddings. I am not a professional wedding photographer, but 3 years ago when photo.net reviewed the D3, I shot a wedding to test the camera's capabilities, especially under low light conditions. It was a huge improvement over the D2X that I was using in the 2, 3 years prior: <a href="../equipment/nikon/D3/D3-review">http://www.photo.net/equipment/nikon/D3/D3-review</a>. There is no doubt that technologies will continue to improve.</p>

<p>But again, to become a successful wedding/portrait photographer, the equipment is merely a side issue. Marketing and how to deal with customers, especially those who are demanding and difficult to please, involves a lot more than just photography. You will be running a business with a lot of competition; therefore having good business sense is at least as important as the ability to capture good images. Here on photo.net, we have some good resources:</p>

<ul>

<li><a href="../learn/wedding/">http://www.photo.net/learn/wedding/</a></li>

<li><a href="../wedding-photography-forum/">http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/</a></li>

</ul>

<p>Many aspiring wedding photographers have already asked plenty of questions that may benefit the OP.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>You are putting the most emphasis on a camera. The camera is the least important thing</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Shun is right. DSLR's have improved a lot. Some improvements will show a difference compared to others, to mention a few.</p>

<ul>

<li>Resolution for detail when needed</li>

<li>Low light capabilities</li>

<li>AF accuracy</li>

</ul>

<p>Kent's argument would have made sense in film days when it all depended on lenses and the type of film used. With the exception of the AF point, which still depended on the camera.<br>

Today the results that depended on film, now depend on the camera itself. <br>

What about the D3s low light capability which is essential for weddings, that does not depend on the lens.</p>

 

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<p>I have given a lot of thought to all of your responses and have decided to hold off on spending the money for a full frame. I am now conflicted with either the D7000 or D300s.....and not just which camera to choose. If I decide to go with the 300s should I wait a few months in hopes that Nikon releases the D400. I would hate to buy the 300s when the 400 is almost certainly going to be released sometime in the near future. Any advice on this is greatly appreciated!!<br>

One last thing..the photographer I am going to be working under says to stay away from the SB900 because it overheats a lot...she suggested I buy the SB800. I dont want to take one persons advice on this. I have read good and bad about both speedlights, and ask that if you have experience with either or both to lend your opinion. My fear in choosing the SB800 is that I will be choosing an older model, without the recent advances....am I off base here??? HELP!</p>

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<p>Catrina, DSLRs are high-tech electronics. Like all electronics, generally speaking, the longer your wait, the better the quality and the cheaper they'll get. It pays to wait as long as you can until a point that you must buy something to use. Of course, you can't wait forever or all of us will be dead. Exactly how long you should wait is your personal decision.</p>

<p>I would recommend getting the SB-900. If you have to, just switch off the thermostat, but in that case you need to watch the flash yourself and make sure that it does not overheat or you risk that the flash tube will have a shorter life: <a href="00YkMF">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00YkMF</a></p>

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