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Shutter Speed Problem with F3


bruce_hooke

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<p>I have a Nikon F3 that seems to only be shooting at one speed. I am guessing the speed is 1/80 but all I can tell is that it is a fairly fast shutter speed. The shutter speed shows correctly in the viewfinder both on "A" and with the speed set manually but when I actually press the shutter release the shutter opens and closes quickly even if I have the shutter speed set on 1 second or even on B (of if I have it set on A and point the camera at a dark corner of the room so the light meter is showing a slow shutter speed). This is not just happening with the frames before the counter gets to 1. The counter is advancing. I have put in a new battery.<br>

I am guessing there is something major wrong in the camera that will require the attention of a camera repair person (in which case this body will probably become a "parts" body) but just in case there is something obvious I am overlooking I thought I'd put this up here and see if anyone has any ideas. Thanks!<br>

Bruce</p>

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<p>Robert,<br>

When I originally experienced the problem there was film in the camera. There is not now...<br>

Peter,<br>

No problem, I know how easy it is to read past things. If nobody here has an ideas I will probably take the camera to my camera repair guy next time I am in town</p>

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<p>Yes, I think is a major problem that requires expert attention. Maybe parts are needed, maybe not.<br /> Looks like the camera is stucked to one speed, maybe the flash sync speed, but sincerely, I don`t have a clue on this. My closer experience was on a shutter speed selector in a Pentax camera, that was fixed after cleaning the contacts turret, no parts needed.<br>

Good luck.</p>

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<p>Try turning the ASA adjustor throguh its range a few times. Under it is a variable resistor called a FRE. I've read that they have a tendency to break. But it might just be "dirty" from not being turned... who knows. If that doesn't read a value the shutter speed circuit can't work (which is what your camera isn't doing.)</p>
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<p>Thanks Jose and Brian. I tried moving the ASA dial back and forth but that did not seem to help. It also occurs to me that since the light meter does appear to be reading properly the ASA setting must be at least getting through to the light meter...</p>
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<p>If I remember correctly, the F3 will remain on 1/80 until you have fired off at least three frames.<br>

At least that's the way mine behaves.<br>

You have probably tried that; it is a quirk of the F3.<br>

Good luck--it is a fine camera.<br>

Might be cheaper to get another than have it repaired.<br>

Paul</p>

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<p>Well, Bruce, I guess that if the meter is working normally then your test of the ASA dial was interesting but not the one that is going to solve your problem. Good try, though, and definitely worth trying. Obviously there is something else wrong. I'm out of suggestions because anything else I might suggest is pure speculations... and gawd knows there is enough of that on the internet.<br>

A while ago I took a cameara to a repair place near my house and there was a guy at the counter with a box full of old Canon or Olympus. One by one he pulled them out and handed them to the repairman asking ifhtey are worth repairing. The repairman was amazing. He'd cycle each one and then (like a psychic) tell the guy what was wrong. Genrally the guy could tell from the look on the repairman's face if it was worth asking "How much..." or "Is it worth repairing?"<br>

Do you have a competent professional camera repair place near you? You'll likely be able to get some free advise about what might be wrong and if it is worth repairing.</p>

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<p>Thanks everyone.<br>

Paul: Yes, this is happening even when the counter is well beyond the first three frames.<br>

Brian: Thanks! Yes, the ASA dial was a good thing to check. Thanks for suggesting that. I agree that at this point it is time to get the camera into the hands of my camera repair guy. Sadly, given the price of used F3 bodies chances are good it will not be worth repairing this one but it is at least worth checking with him in case he knows from experience that it is something easy.<br>

Thanks everyone for your ideas and suggestions!<br>

Bruce</p>

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<p>Hi Bruce, some thoughts for you. I just got my F3 back from John Hawley camera repair. the invoice with shipping was about 110 bucks.....new light seals, batteries, CLA..... Extremely fast turn around. I have not finished the roll of Tri X in it yet to see the results, but the camera was not able to advance or fire prior to me sending it there, now shoots like new! Also included testing and calibrating light meter.<br>

I also am always torn to simply purchase another body for cheap as well but with a caveat..whatever you buy it is going to be a crapshoot and with shipping from ebay or CList or whatever you still will probably be spending at least 50 bucks....my point is you are already half way there to having your own camera already repaired and ready to go for the next 20+? years. You also know what you are starting with. I wouldn't think twice about spending the $$ on your camera<br>

Another thought...if you are into cheap (like me) pick up one or more "as is" F3's from KEH. they are listed in the as is section and usually are described as "untested and/or needing seals" A week ago there was one in ugly condition for 10 bucks! Usually they are about 25 -30 dollars. Putting light seals in an F3 is only a One beer Job. Of course the bodies do not come with a prism or finder.<br>

Good luck! I wish you well with your F3. It is a camera worth putting money into.<br>

Mark</p>

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<p>When I dropped my F3 in a creek in the back country, the electronics failed but the shutter continued to work at 1/80 when I drained the water out. Insurance paid for replacement of the electronics ... as I recall, that was 3/4 the cost of a new body in the early 1980s. If you have failed electronics, the cost of repair may be higher than finding a used body at KEH or other source.</p>
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<p>Thanks Mark and John,<br>

Mark in particular gets at a question that I have not found a perfect answer to, which is in the current environment does it make sense to pay to have something like an F3 body overhauled regularly and repaired by a professional camera repair shop or does it make sense to simply buy a new used body from KEH when something goes wrong. For what it is worth, the body that broke had been overhauled a few months ago and the experience of having the body overhauled and then having something go wrong not long afterwards does leave me even more doubtful about the value in having a used F3 body overhauled, but it is still not a clear cut decision to me.<br>

An added factor is that most camera repair places seem to want to charge a goodly sum to diagnose the problem. This is perfectly fair but of course what one does not know going in is will the answer that comes back be that it will cost more than the body is worth to have it fixed, which, as John's story illustrates, is quite likely if it is an electronics problem.<br>

For what it's worth, I don't even bother with Craigs List or eBay for used camera gear since I figure that way too much of what is sold there has undisclosed issues, but I have gotten a lot of good gear from KEH. The "as is" approach from KEH does not make so much sense to me as the hassles and cost of getting the camera overhauled would seem to bring the cost up to what a "Bargain" body goes for from KEH and a "Bargain" body is ready to use.<br>

That, at least, has been my thinking...<br>

Thanks again for all the input!</p>

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<p>Bruce IMHO it really comes down ultimately what you are going to do with your camera. I shoot digital D90 and also love Nikon film cameras. I mainly shoot BW (i have a darkroom) I spent the coin to refurb my F3 simply because I love the camera and what it is capable of. I also shoot with an F, Fe, Fm and and F100. All have there strengths and weaknesses.<br>

At the current cost of F3's and seeing that you already spent $$ on yours I understand your dilema of which way to go. I truly empathize with you.<br>

I could go either way in the decision.<br>

I wish you well!<br>

Mark</p>

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