1/2 or 1/3 stops

[tom_berkowski]

I am considering setting to 1/3 stops again and wonder if you have relevant experience to share.

 

Until three years ago,I had a film camera that only had 1/2 stops. I used a old Gossen light meter with full stops marked on the dial.

 

Three years ago, I got a 5d which I set to 1/3 stops because I could I guess.

 

Last year, I took a lighting class and found it better to move back to 1/2 stops. We were counting stop differences between ambient

and flash, so it was easier to do 2 clicks per stop than 3.

 

Now I have 1) bought a Sekonic meter and 2) am using manual flash power settings on my 430exii.

 

I am thinking of going back to 1/3 stops on camera because:

 

1) sekonic's 1/2 and 1/3 stop conventions are A little different than Canon's (1.7 instead of 1.8 on 1/2 stops). Both 1/2 and 1/3 are

different, but it seems 1/2 are more different. I know this doesnt matter in practice, but it would be easier on my brain if they

matched.

 

2) 430ex manual settings move in 1/3 stops. Iso moves in 1/3 stops. I don't think there is a way to move either to 1/2. So I am

counting 3 on flash and iso and 2 on aperture and shutter.

 

Any advice?

[KenPapai]

<p>If you shoot raw moving 1/3 to 1/2 of a stop either (over or under exposure) way hardly makes any perceptible difference except around magnification 200% or more. When using a Speedlite it might be slightly trickier, so no comment there.</p>

[g dan mitchell]

I second Ken's point that 1/6 stop (which is the largest difference between the options) is essentially meaningless. I'd

just go with 1/3 stops.

 

Dan

[tom_berkowski]

Thanks. I didnt think exposure difference was significant. How about technique? In M, moving equal exposure but two

stops from say 5.6 to 2.8 will involve 6 clicks on each dial.

 

Upside would be that numbers would match more frequently w meter. Plus when i want to reduce exposure one stop, I

wouldn't have to click 3 times on iso or flash power but two times on f or shutter speed (so consistent) .

[William Michael]

<blockquote>

<p>if you have relevant experience to share.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I have a truck load of stuff I have collected over the years some with quite unusually stop numbers and varying increments . . . and yes I have moved between ½ and ⅓ and full stop increments.<br>

With my Canon DSLRs I use <strong><em>and think in</em></strong> ⅓ stops increments<br />I made this decision because the ISO increments in the cameras are in ⅓ stops and (as you implied) it is just simpler to count everything in three clicks: so I count in threes with all that set of gear.<br>

(I use a Sekonic HH meter and have some Canon Flash and I count in threes when I use this gear with the Canon DSLRs. The few differences in the digits representing some of the F-stops doesn't worry me - I have a Gossen also and it has a needle).</p>

<p>WW</p>

[stp]

<p>My film camera only does 1/2 stops, so I set my meter to record in half stops. My in-camera digital meter can do 1/3 stops, so I choose what seems to be "more accurate." But others are right: when shooting raw, it doesn't much matter. When shooting transparencies, it might matter a little now and then.</p>

[ken schwarz]

<p>Regardless of what you choose for exposure settings, note that you can switch the ISO adjustment to full stops, which I find preferable for most shooting situations.</p>

[alan_bryant1]

<p>I shot film for years, with 1/2 stop aperture adjustments and 1/3 stop exposure compensation. When I went to digital, at first I used a good P&S. It was 1/3 stop all around, but I almost never set the aperture on it. I did use exposure compensation though, which was in my familiar 1/3 stop. When I went to DSLRs, at first the 1/3 stop aperture drove me nuts, and I switched the camera to 1/2 stops. But I found it impossible to quickly adjust the exposure compensation in 1/2 stops. I'd been using 1/3 stop for that so long it was burned into my brain. I moved the camera back to 1/3 stops, and before long the aperture seemed natural in that setting. So that's what I've stayed with. It seems to be what most things use, and there is some advantage to going with the flow.</p>

<p>Is that relevant experience? Hopefully.</p>

[tom_berkowski]

Thanks. WW seems to have read my mind again on this question.

 

To be clear, I know small stops don't mean a thing. I am looking for ease of use.

 

Sekonic 1/3 stop conventions are 1.4, 1.6, 1.8 2.0 2.2 2.5 2.8. 3.2 3.6 4.0.

 

I m pretty sure those match with exception of 3.6. Which of If I remember correctly, canon uses 3.5. ( I have to

remember which c f to change back. ). Sekonic s half stop are more different. Just causes mental disconnect, I know

nothing real.

 

Seems like I will change back, with only downside of needing more clicks to move large numbers of stops.

[g dan mitchell]

<blockquote>

<p><em>"Regardless of what you choose for exposure settings, note that you can switch the ISO adjustment to full stops, which I find preferable for most shooting situations."</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Ha! Never even thought to check to see if that was possible. Seems like a good idea, though I'm now dialed in to moving three clicks/spaces when I want a "stop" of ISO.</p>

<p>Dan</p>

[mendel_leisk]

<p>I don't think the Canon slr's allow full stop adjustment increment, only 1/2 or 1/3. My preference would be full stops: find it it a pain scrolling through all the little steps. Also, makes for a lot of unintelligible numbers: I'm used to the full stop numbers.</p>

[john_a5]

<p>I have cameras that move in 1/2 stops, full stops and 1/3 stops--and some have continuous adjustment--no clicks. My meter reads in 1/10th stops and my lights mostly read in 1/10th stops--some in 1/3rds. I rarely set my aperture to what the meter reads, but make decisions based on other factors in combination with the meter.</p>

<p>I think that whatever you use is of minor consequence overall, except that you like using it and are comfortable with it. 1/3 stop is certainly more precise, but the difference is nominal.</p>

[William Michael]

<p>Tom: Yes I understood the question to be about how the brain was working and doing stuff and transferring that doing to the fingertips effectively and quickly.</p>

<p>The F/3.6 doesn't worry me because I think in full stops (and always have).<br>

What I mean is the NUMBERS I rattle off in my head (if I HAVE to think of numbers) are 1; 1.4; 2; 2.8; 4; 5.6; 8 . . . etc these are those which I know by rote.<br>

So, when I have a DSLR camera in my hand I, don't "think" F/3.2, but rather it just happens to be one click down from F/2.8 (when working in thirds).<br>

It is only when I have to WRITE or SPEAK the number, do I think it as a number.</p>

<p>As I don't keep as detailed a Shot Diary now, (because of EXIF DATA), really the only time I have to WRITE these intermediate numbers is when commenting on a forum or speaking the F number to a Student - and I sometimes I actually have to think about what that number is, to say or write it: the numbers I have to think about most often are F/3.5 and the two between F/2 and F/2.8 and the half stop which is between F/2 and F/2.8 – it is like a mental blank similar to the times table where there is one or two which always make one pause – for me it is: 8 times 7.</p>

<p>Anyway the point of this second comment is to underscore the fact that I don’t “think” the numbers other than the Whole Stops.<br>

And I do the same with the ISO also – e.g. ISO 500 in my brain is “<em>one faster than ISO400</em>”, but ISO200 is “<em>ISO200</em>”<br>

With the shutter Speeds I think: 1; ½; ¼; ⅛; 1/15; 1/30; 1/60; 1/125; 1/250; 1/500; 1/1000 etc . . . and thus 1/1250s is: “<em>one click faster, than 1/1000s” </em>etc.</p>

<p>So my fingers just work the Tv and the Av in clicks around the whole numbers.<br>

Working the other way: if I read “F/3.2” from the Sekonic, my brain sees that as “one down from F/2.8” and the fingers adjust that accordingly.</p>

<p>WW</p>

[tom_berkowski]

<p>WW's comment above is very insightful. My old Gossen was perfect in that way. Once EV was measured, I would turn the dial, get a match of apeture and shutter, just eyeballing something between say 2.8 and 4, for example or between 1/500 and 1/250. I loved that about my Gossen meter.<br>

AB's also makes sense to me. Exposure compesation when on Av mode was always much easier when I moved to 1/3 stops from 1/2 the first time, at slight expense of M ease. One of my kids has skin that would meter on +1/3 on reflective spot metering most of the time. I know 1/2 stop gives pretty much the same thing, but 1/3 seemed very nice.<br>

For those who are care, Sekonic's 1/2 stop conventions are:<br>

1.4, 1.7, 2.0, 2.4, 2.8, 3.4,4.0, 4.8, 5.6, 6.7, 8, 9.5, 11<br>

By the 1.7 vs. 1.8 (canon); 2.4 vs. 2.5 (canon), 3.4 vs. 3.5 (canon) and 4.8 vs. 4.5 (canon), you might be able to see why I found Sekonic 1/2 stops to be a bit unfamiliar, taking an extra second of mental calculation when I'd rather not spend the time.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone, I'm moving back to 1/3 stops as soon as I find my manual and figure out CF#.</p>

[William Michael]

<p>if you're still there it's CF 06 - my 5D happens to be on my desk next to me.</p>

[tom_berkowski]

Thanks. Set it to thirds.