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M6 metering strategies - coming from CW Nikon user


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<p>Thanks for all the comments, </p>

<p>It seems that it's not so different from the old centre weighed Nikon metering system with which I am familiar. I usually just point towards subject and adjust, or I leave it on one setting based on Sunny 16 guidelines, and adjust accordingly. </p>

<p>I'm still waiting for it...CLA takes forever.</p>

<p>J</p>

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<p>Julien: I agree, it isn't too different from the Nikon, except for not being center weighted. I just make it a rule to avoid aiming the central metering area away from extreme light or dark areas of the scene. I try to meter off an area that has a mixture of middle tones. This gives me good exposures, even with contrasty transparency films.</p>

<p>There can be exceptions. Say there is an area, maybe to one side of my main subject, that is unusually light, and I want to avoid blowing out this highlight area. I know that I'm willing to stop down, let's say 1/2 stop to 1 stop. I will aim the metered area at the brighter part of the scene. I will try stopping down 1/2 stop, to see if that is enough so that, although the left (under-exposure) LED goes out, the center dot and the right (over-exposure) LED are still lit.</p>

<p>Next, I try swinging back over to the main part of the scene. If I'm lucky, now the right LED will go out, but the center dot and left LED stay on. Now I know I have balanced my exposure so that the main subject is 1/2 stop under, and the bright secondary area is 1/2 over. Both well within the film's latitude.</p>

<p>If that wasn't enough, I might try stopping down a little more, possibly approaching a full stop, and try again. If the secondary area is too dark, conversely I might open up a bit. This is how I use the LED diodes for metering with my M6 and MP. By doing this I am doing a sort of manual "thinking man's" 60/40 center-weighting, since the M6 doesn't have center-weighting.</p>

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