Making a quasi-contact sheet for 35mm color negatives

[bmichel]

<p>I have a disorganized bunch of family photos negatives. Some of them I want to scan and archive. The bulk of them probably not. The issue is quickly identifying the keepers and then keeping a record of them.</p>

<p>I am using an Epson V500. Mounting the strips in the holders and then scanning takes too long considering the retention rate. I need to simply have a modest-quality positive photo that I can use to identify those worthy of scanning. </p>

<p>My plan is to load the negatives into clear plastic sleeves and then simply scan that at modest resolution as a document on the flatbed. I can buy holders that have seven sleeves, each holding five photos. The rub is, of course, that the resulting color makes it hard to view the contents. </p>

<p>Is there a simple way to convert the images into some semblance of the original color? I am using Elements 6, but am open to getting other software. I did experiment with going grayscale and that appears to be a reasonable alternative. That is simple as I can scan as 8-bit grayscale, then invert and equalize. </p>

<p>I will keep previewing until every sleeve row contains at least one keeper. I can then mark on the sleeve the ID, once scanned. I can also retain the rather small TIFF file from the indexing scan. </p>

<p>Does this make sense? Better ideas are most welcome.</p>

[patricklavoie]

<p>putting them in plastic sleeve seem like a good and fast solution.. maybe a auto color after the invert in Photoshop could yield to ok / good result too.. and simplify the process ..</p>

[walter_degroot]

<p>A very nice way to make a contact sheret is to use a 4 x 5 enlarger.<br>

and make an "enlarged contact sheet" 9 frames will fit in the 4 x 6 aperture.<br>

You might even be able to make a 5 x 5 negative holder and print more frames.<br>

If the color or exposure is just slightly off -- it is only a proof sheet/</p>

[don_gallagher]

<p>We did this for our old negatives (we had them stored in Photofile sheets already) to preview prior to scanning. We use Photoshop (I don't know enough about Elements to know if it can do the following):<br>

1) Using the Curves command, sample a blank portion of the film (a blank frame or between frames) to set the White point. This subtracts the orange cast from the film and leaves you with a non-tinted negative.<br>

2) Invert using the Invert command<br>

3) If the colors need any gross adjusting, use the levels command. Sharpen to taste.<br>

We have found that this provides adequate previews for us. You can't tell the difference between a tack sharp shot and a not quite sharp shot, but you can see significant details to help you choose which frames you want to scan. </p>