What to look for in buying a used 1D MkII

[PatrickMP]

<p>I'm finally making the jump to serious digital with a 1D MkII. I've done research, and it fits what I need with regards to printed output, and seems the next step up from my 10D. I'm currently making a list of what to look for in buying a used body, and would appreciate some comments on what to look for when I meet the seller. So far I have:</p>

<ul>

<li>Try both SD and CF cards</li>

<li>Try shooting with the flash</li>

<li>Try shooting with my lenses in AF</li>

<li>Try shooting with my lenses in MF</li>

<li>Check the shutter count (will require a laptop to download data from the CF/SD card)</li>

<li>Check for wear on the lens mount (may indicate a dropped body where the lens was forced off)</li>

<li>Check for excessive wear and tear on the body</li>

<li>Ensure the battery fits security in its slot</li>

<li>Check that the charger(s) work</li>

<li>Check for dust and scratches on the sensor</li>

<li>Check for dust in the viewfinder</li>

<li>Check for scratches on the rear LCD</li>

<li>Ensure all buttons work</li>

<li>Check firmware version (not sure how to do this, or if it is required)</li>

</ul>

<p>Any comments? Anything I've missed?<br>

Thanks,<br>

-Patrick</p>

[john_a5]

<p>Firmware version is given as a read out on most these cameras I believe, but really not that critical if the camera works but certainly something you want to update if needed when you get it.</p>

<p>I have a 1dsmkIII, so some comments related to that camera here which may be similar with the 1dII.</p>

<p>Shutter count on the card doesn't tell you much. Putting a card in with a newer or later number can change the sequence. Also, the camera allows you to change the numbering--I have a numbering system for each year and each time the numbering meets the max exposure (10000, I believe before it repeats) I modify it. Knowing the shutter actuations would be a good thing, but I am not sure it can be determined except by a technician--maybe someone local who services them can do it for you. ( Hasselblad's H system actually gives readings for actuations for both the lens and the camera, so I don't know why Canon couldn't have a similar feature).</p>

<p>You can check the condition of the battery in the menu "Battery Information". It will tell you the recharge performance, which indicates if the battery is sub optimum--should read Maximum if the battery is still in top shape.</p>

<p>Best is to know the person you are buying from, but otherwise, I am not sure there is any sure fire way to know exactly what you are getting.</p>

[PatrickMP]

<p>Thanks for the input John. I wasn't aware of the battery information -- definitely something to check. If camera batteries are anything like my laptop battery, they have a very finite lifespan.<br>

For the shutter count: Embedded in a JPG file in the EXIF data is a shutter count, albeit stored as a two word hex number. This is independent of the file number. Software exists which can pull this number out (or you can pull out a calculator to do it yourself in base-16 math). Some useful information can be found here: http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/threads/351961-How-to-check-shutter-count-in-1D-mk-II. Take a look at post #5. <br>

Cheers.<br>

-Patrick</p>

[nathangardner]

The latest firmware is ver. 1.2.6. This version is required for use of SDHC cards and maybe the high capacity ones as

well. There will be dust on the sensor as it's a 7 year old camera and doesn't have a built in sensor cleaner; no

biggie just may have to have it cleaned once. Shutter count is definitely something to look for as the 1 series is used

by pros and pj's and is commonly in the 100,000's. I wouldn't buy without getting the count unless it's a steal, which is

what I did, but I got lucky and later found that it had only 45,000 clicks. I'm sure the seller will show you how to work it

but be aware that when going through the menus the buttons must be held down while rotating the dials; some people

don't know this and think the camera is broken. Other than that, I have one and love it, I'm sure you will too.

[JAPster]

<p>Ask how old the battery is, and if the battery has any problems charging and/or retaining a good charge (ie, does the battery seem to go dead a lot sooner than you would expect). This would indicate the battery has reached the end of its useful life and a new one needs to be purchased. This dove-tails with what John-A says.</p>

<p>Check for any indications that camera may have been dropped and possibly damaged.</p>

<p>Check that you are comfortable looking through the viewfinder, and that how the VF shows you the scene will fit with how you like to take pictures.</p>

<p>Check the ergonomics - does the camera body feel 'right' in your hands, does it feel comfortable and natural for your hand-holding technique.</p>

<p>Ask him/her what image editing software they use, particularly raw file editors/converters. Your existing software might not be compatible with the raw file from this camera so you might need to upgrade your software to a newer version.</p>

<p>BTW, you can check shutter count easy enough by shooting a dummy JPEG image, loading it on the WIndows box, then use IrfanView to view EXIF data. You can download Irfanview for free from the Net, then download and install the Plugins file. This will enable you to view EXIF data which will include the accumulative shutter count.</p>

<p>Do a bit of research on the net to see if this particular model has exhibited any unexpected flaws or bugs that might be reported on camera & photo sites.</p>

[scott_ferris]

<p>Patrick,</p>

<p> When you buy one reset all custom functions, previous owners seem to have bad habits!</p>

<p> The MkII does not have a battery information option in the menu, that came in on the MkIII. Treat the batteries as dead, they are cheap enough and don't last anywhere near as long (as in age) as newer Lithium batteries.</p>

<p> The shutter count number via EXIF has been shown to be unreliable. It resets itself at 66,500 (or something close to it) it seems only Canon can truly give you an accurate shutter count for the 1 series cameras.</p>

<p> Rather than sweat the detail stuff, none of us are Sherlock Holmes, get a feel for the seller and what they know about the camera and how well they handle it. If they know what they are doing, photographically speaking, then they are probably selling a reasonable camera, ask what lenses they have and use, and ask to see a few of their images, with EXIF if possible, that should give you a good idea of the person who is selling.</p>

[zml]

<p>If you are buying from a working pro, ask for maintenance records: a high mileage properly maintained camera body, even on its fourth shutter, may be a better buy than a low-mileage, seldom used camera from an amateur who used all kinds of protection to make the camera look good but never bothered to send it in for maitneneance/adjustmets... Especially beware of a camera that doesn't have any scratches on the LCD screens :-)</p>

<p>As for your checklist, check that the battery main type is proper, ask when/if the internal battery was replaced, shoot with the mirror up, make sure that the rear wheel works in all shooting modes, look for water damage, check both shutter release buttons, shoot with compensation in flash and regular modes, shake the camera and listen for weird clunking noises, etc.</p>

[zml]

<p>If you are buying from a working pro, ask for maintenance records: a high mileage properly maintained camera body, even on its fourth shutter, may be a better buy than a low-mileage, seldom used camera from an amateur who used all kinds of protection to make the camera look good but never bothered to send it in for maintenance/adjustments... Especially beware of a camera that doesn't have any scratches on the LCD screens :-)</p>

<p>As for your checklist, check that the main battery type is proper, ask when/if the internal battery was replaced, shoot with the mirror up, make sure that the rear wheel works in all shooting modes, look for water damage, check both shutter release buttons, shoot with compensation in flash and regular modes, shake the camera and listen for weird clunking noises, etc.</p>

[ejchem101]

<p>Make sure you are getting the charger. A new one will run you around $300.<br>

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/164262-REG/Canon_2419A005_NC_E2_Battery_Charger.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/164262-REG/Canon_2419A005_NC_E2_Battery_Charger.html</a></p>

<p>Other than that, I find that these cameras are a steal, even at slightly higher shutter counts. I bought one with 112k. It's on the high side, but for the price I got, even replacing the shutter once is ok with me (even though I've heard it quoted around $200-400) I guess that's the gamble of buying used. I've heard rumors that cameras kind of go 1 of 2 ways... either they last past 60k and go even past 200k, or, they die early and need replaced.</p>

<p>In my opinion if you are getting a steal of a deal (under $600) then don't worry too much about the shutter count. Just make sure it's not failing when you buy it. I've found a good way to do this is to try different shutter speeds when I test it and make sure there are no "bright" spots or streaks that could indicate a failing shutter.</p>

[w_t1]

<p>I would suggest making sure the owner has a users manual to look at when you're reviewing, because he may not remember how to flip from card 1 to card 2, for example. The menu flow is not the best in my opinion, it's the only eos body i've ever had to get out the manual for, other than CF settings. You can also dl the manual at canon website.</p>

<p>I wouldn't expect that much diff. from a 10d, wrt resolution. I got mine for the durability, the vertical shooting, and speed for sports. Don't sweat the small stuff as Scott said, I mean if the lcd has scratches, so what? If it's in good condition, I can't see less than 850-900.</p>

<p>the LCD review screen sucks compared to even 10d. You can't magnify and look at details. Usually I don't care for outdoor sports, but last week I was shooting indoor martial arts at 1.8 and 2.8 and went to zoom in on lcd review to make sure I was getting eyes focused....oops</p>

[peter_j2]

<p>When the original Canon battery dies, unscrew the end terminal and attach it to a good third party battery. It is the only working dual latching mechanism that provides a secure seal.</p>

<p>Also, mount the camera on a tripod and shoot the same scene against (say another calibrated camera) to check for sharpness, correct exposure, colour balance, scratched focus screen, etc. Any problems, take it into an authorized Canon repair place for a 'free' check up. The repair/recalibration/cleaning will cost you at least $200.</p>

<p>Good luck with your purchase and enjoy the beast.</p>

 

[john_r._fulton_jr.]

<p>Be aware that you CAN magnify the LCD image with the 1DmkII. Not sure why you were advised in older post that you cannot.</p>

[Glenn McCreery]

<p>I would shoot close-ups at maximum aperture, both with AF and manual, to check for focusing accuracy. Depth of field for far-away subjects, taken at at small apertures, might be sufficient that you would not notice focus inaccuracy.</p>

[w_t1]

<p>i stand corrected on the playback zoom. I think the playback magnification was one of those things I tried to figure out the first day without the manual, and forgot about it. Just figured it out, thanks John and dpreview online review.</p>

[john_r._fulton_jr.]

<p>WT--it's not the most intuitive menu or controls I've used so no worries. On a similar issue the 1DmkIIN is a nice improvement in that the LCD screen is bigger. It's pretty small on the 1DmkII.</p>