Studio Light Advice

[smarksphotography]

<p>Hi, <br>

I have done a little research regarding studio lights (strobes) but mostly the research has been more confusing then particularly helpful. So, I am turning here. <br>

I have been using Speedlites in my two softboxes, but I am considering adding another softbox or perhaps an umbrella with a dedicated light to my kit. (Basically, adding a third light) I am thinking of getting a studio light rather than another Speedlite for the job and would like to hear people's thoughts about that. One of my motivations for this consideration is that I think it will work a bit better with one of my larger softboxes. However, I am also concerned with cost and with portability. I am guessing those are all competing criteria.<br>

I trigger my speedlites wirelessly. If I am not mistaken, it seems like there's no standard way to fire studio lights wirelessly. (They all have their own systems). I was wondering how these systems interact with PocketWizard setup. </p>

<p>Thanks in advance, </p>

[Matt Laur]

<p>It will help if you mention what sort of work you're doing (portaiture in people's homes? editorial food/table shots in restaurants? etc).<br /><br />Most monolights (studio strobes) will have a simple optical slave that will fire whenever another strobe goes off. So if you're using PWs now, just allow that new strobe to slave optically, right out of the box, and all's well.<br /><br />Likewise, most have a 1/4" ("phone") or 1/8" ("mini") tip/sleeve connector that's useful for remote triggering ... either via a sync cable to the camera, or to the connector on a PW. Nothing fancy there, either. But if you want to leverage some manufacturer's more elabore remote controlling systems - which can adjust power per strobe remotely, etc - then you do need to get into their proprietary systems. But since you're using PWs now, it's likely you're used to setting flash power manually.<br /><br />Your other issue is getting that existing softbox you mentioned to mount correctly on a new strobe. You may need a special speedring to mate the two, depending on makes/models. <br /><br />You'll get much more specific advice if you can refine your definition of "portability" (can you still use grid power, or is battery power going to be a must, etc?). So, more info is better! Also, mention in which country you live, as different brands are/aren't available in different places.</p>

[ellis_vener_photography]

<p>All of the high powered battery systems, as well as AC powered monolights and pack and head systems I am aware of can connect to an external trigger whether hard wired to the camera or hardwired to a an external radio receiver.<br /> Since you mention "wireless" and "speedlites" and "Pocketwzard" you should be aware that Pocketwizard ( LPA Designs) makes three ControlTL receivers that allow you to connect and control output levels of studio type flashes. You will need either a ControlTL MiniTT1 transmitter or FlexTT5 transceiver in the camera hotshoe to transmit the Canon E-TTL or Nikon iTTL signal.</p>

<p>The three receivers are the</p>

<ul>

<li>The MC2 for the Paul C. Buff Einstein 640.</li>

<li>The AC9 for all other Paul C. Buff lights ( Alien Bees and White Lightning monolights and the Zeus pack and head system.</li>

<li>The PowerST4 for Elinchrom flashes that are equipped wit ha port for attaching Elinchrom's Skyport receiver ( it doesn't work wit hElinchroms with an internal Skyport.</li>

</ul>

<p>I have been using the MC2 and PowerST4 for awhile, but am more familiar with the MC2 for the Einstein. With the ControlTL and Einstein you can not only trigger the studio flash but also control output in 1/3rd stop increments with your camera's FEC flash exposure biasing control.</p>

<p>If you add a ControlTL AC3 ZoneController on top of the transmitter you can not only control three separate groups (A, B and C) in third of a stop increments but if you set the group(s) the Einstein, Elinchrom or Alien Bee / Zeus / White Light, or speedlites / speedlights are in to "A" mode you can control its output separately from ControlTL controlled lights in the other groups.</p>

<p>If you go with a monolight, right now my choice would be the Paul C. Buff Einstein 640. There is not a better value on the market right now and it's primary features ( power range; 640 - 2.5 w-s ; very short flash duration; choice of either constant color or even shorter duration Action mode; 250 watt quartz-Halogen modeling light, and digital tenth of a stop control over flash and modeling light) simply aren't matched by any other current monolight.</p>

<p>For off the power grid work, there are several high capacity batteries like the Dynalite XPS, Profoto Batpak, and Paul C Buff, inc. Vagabond Mini Lithium.</p>

<p><strong>Full disclosure:</strong> I do not work for, distribute, or sell LPA Design, Elinchrom or Paul C. Buff, inc. products or companies that distribute those companies products but I am currently beta testing some ControlTL firmware and products right now which I cannot discuss further.</p>

[smarksphotography]

<p>Hi thanks for the quick response and the request for more details. <br>

I am gearing up a home studio and something I can take to events like birthday parties and people's homes. Not thinking in terms of weddings just now. So mostly portaiture is the answer there I think. <br>

I am using the PW manually. Although since they support <em>E-TTL</em> I might try to get that to work at some point, not a big deal for me yet though. By portability I mean batteries so I can use them at events without worrying about a power source and tripping over cords. I don't think batteries are must initially, but definitely long term I'd imagine wanting that option. <br>

I live in the US.<br>

Please let me know if I can provide any additional details.<br>

Thanks again. </p>

[smarksphotography]

<p>This thread on Paul C. Buff's website has given pause when considering who I'd like to give my money to:<br>

<a href="http://www.paulcbuff-techforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=571&start=0&hilit=Boston">http://www.paulcbuff-techforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=571&start=0&hilit=Boston</a><br /><br /><br>

On a technical level I also heard some people complain the the AlienBees regarding consistent color temperature from image to image. I have no personal experience with this however I'd like to choose a solution this is not a potential issue, or a minimal one at least. <br>

So I'll probably look beyond them for a solution. </p>

[ellis_vener_photography]

<p>I won't address Paul C. Buff's personal politics more than to say that I vehemently disagree with them and also to point out that you have metho no idea about the politics of the people who own Profoto, Elinchrom, Broncolor, Dynalite, Balcar, Comet, Hensel, Speedotron, Norman, or the Chinese and Korean run companies that are now making electronic flash gear -- or for that matter the politics of every other photographic gear company owner, President or CEO , etc. Their politics may be more in line with yours or maybe even more extreme in the opposite direction than yours - -you just don't know.</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>On a technical level I also heard some people complain the the AlienBees regarding consistent color temperature from image to image.</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>That is also the case with every monolight and flash system where output energy levels are lowered by reducing voltag<em>e. </em>The Einstein uses a different method, IGBT control. The Photogenic Solaire monolight also uses this but to a far more limited extent.</p>

[smarksphotography]

<p>I agree completely with about the politics and their relationship to businesses. I have no idea what most business' politics are and honestly I like it like that. I think business and personal politics should be kept at distance when possible. When a company chooses to broadcast their politics, or as is the case here, make them apart of their business, and I notice it, then I feel compelled to have react to it one way or another. <br>

Back to the topic at hand. (I apologize for the diversion, but wanted to get some ideas other than AB and felt like I should explain why since you took the time to write a careful post).<br>

Are you saying that all monolights suffer from the consistent color temperature issues, or that there are some that don't, or do so less. I was little unclear on this. IGBT control mitigate this? <br>

What about the Lastolite lights? I like their softboxes. Are their lights the same caliber?<br>

Thanks again. </p>

[ellis_vener_photography]

<blockquote>

<p>Are you saying that all monolights suffer from the consistent color temperature issues, or that there are some that don't, or do so less. I was little unclear on this. IGBT control mitigate this? </p>

<p>yes, IGBT control mitigates this. </p>

</blockquote>

[rob_h5]

<blockquote>

<p>This thread on Paul C. Buff's website has given pause when considering who I'd like to give my money to:<br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.paulcbuff-techforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=571&start=0&hilit=Boston" target="_blank">http://www.paulcbuff-techforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=571&start=0&hilit=Boston</a></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Spencer, thank you for posting this. I would not recommend Alien Bees, besides being cheap low budget studio lights IMO this "no sell list" based on politics is just another reason not to buy/use Alien Bees. My city is on AB's list so even if I wanted to buy AB's I couldn't! I agree with you that politics and business need to be separate. I have never before seen any studio light company broadcast their political views in this manner. Yes we all have our political views but it needs to be kept separate from business and that includes studio lights. If we all had to do business based on whether we are Democrat or Republican we would never get anything done. Lots of complaints about AB's on the internet photography forums. Read this horror story from a photographer who owned Alien Bees, the lights were barely used, were in storage and the studio light cracked and leaked chemicals through no fault of the owner.</p>

<p>Broken Alien Bee lights<br /> <a href="../photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00YAMz">http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00YAMz</a></p>

<p>PLENTY of other choices for studio lights besides AB's here is a partial list:<br /> <strong> </strong><br /> <strong>Pro Studio Lights</strong><br /> Hensel<br />Broncolor<br />Profoto<br />Balcar<br />Speedotron (black line/brown line)<br />DynaLite<br />Photogenic<br />Elinchrom<br />Bowens/Calumet<br />Norman</p>