Bless me, Father, I bought a camera.

[wogears]

<p>To be specific, a Mamiya C330f on eBay. Should arrive in a few days; hope it's as described... I sold all my 645 Pro stuff about a year ago, and I missed those big chromes. Lens on it is 135mm, which should be very nice for portraits. I used some no-name TLRs back in the Pleistocene, so I think I can get back into it fairly quickly. I have already done the unthinkable--I read the manual! I still have my Epson Expression 1680 with the tranny head, which should get me 13 mpx files and that's plenty.<br>

<br /> For those with Mamiya TLR experience, are there any particular eccentricities I need to worry about right away? I know the lenses are good and the cameras rugged, but is there something I need to check immediately? I will, of course, perform the ritual shooting of a brick wall :-)</p>

[craigd]

<p>It must be Mamiya TLR weekend! I just picked up a C2 with a chrome 80mm f/2.8 (err, actually "8cm" -- must be a pretty early C2) that just came in on consignment at my local camera store. Pix forthcoming...</p>

<p>I think the main things to check for with a new Mamiya TLR are light leaks in the bellows, and of course make sure that the shutter fires properly at all speeds. The store had already tested mine, so I'm reasonably confident that all is well with it.</p>

<p>While I'm new to TLRs, I would guess based on my experience with my 6x7 system that something closer to 180mm would be ideal for portraits. 135mm sounds a little short to me. Then again, on 35mm I favor 105mm or 135mm rather than 85mm for portraits, so if you tend toward the shorter end of the so-called "portrait range", maybe 135mm will work for you. It all depends, of course, on how tightly you want to frame and how far away you want to be.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>Say 40 Hail Hassies, and post some pictures here on Photo.net for your sins.</p>

[Aoresteen]

<p>Get a NEW well padded neck strap!!!!! Don't want that thing breaking the sidewalk!</p>

[kparratt]

<p>Something you could run a few test films for, is observing the 'out of focus' handling of that lens, and make notes. The plane of focus will be good and sharp, but for smooth uncluttered backgrounds, use the lens wide open and try to avoid detailed backgrounds, because the bokeh is not the best. To see for yourself, make exposures with the subject nearer to background, for example light coming through trees, as well as far from the same. Try a range of different backgrounds. And while you're at it, with objects in the foreground, for example, have the subject peering through grass or flowers. Duplicate the tests with a range of apertures. In the studio you can control this 100%. On location outdoors, you need to improvise. Being aware of the qualities and limitations of any lens before taking that 'special portrait' shot is simply a good idea.<br>

135mm is a very nice focal length for portraits on 6x6. For full figure as well as head and shoulder shots, I have often used 120 on 6x6 Hasselblad.<br>

Anyway, you've bought it now. Go for it > enjoy!</p>

[john_elder1]

<p>Now you have to decide what your next lens will be:80mm, 65mm, or 55mm. I bought the 330F so i could shoot the 55mm lens. Also got the 135 at a rediculous price. I have a Rollei TLR so I didn't get the 80mm. If you are going to get just 1 more lens i would get the 65mm. If 2, then the 80 and the 55</p>

[frank_skomial]

<p>180 mm lens is perfect for portraits:</p>

<div></div>

[david_smith35]

<p>Les, I used a C330f for about 10 years, and they are very simple and reliable cameras. If the slower shutter speeds are okay, then you've got nothing to worry about. Parralax error isn't a problem irrespective of what some people say, especially if you get a paramender. The only negative point with this camera is the very dim viewfinder screen.</p>

[marc_batters]

<p>Les, Do a preliminary check of the light seals, both on the back, and the hinged baffle.</p>

<p>With the lens removed, baffle open, strong light at rear of camera, check that the seals on the back aren't letting light in around the door. (front, looking through the lens board)<br /> Next, open the back, lower the baffle, strong light at front, check to see if any light comes through the front [taking] lens hole, around the seals on the hinged baffle. (rear, looking through the open back)</p>

<p>Your idea to shoot some test targets on the wall is an excellent idea. Meter the scene, take shots with several shutter and aperture combination's, to determine the timing of the faster, and slower shutter speeds. Of course, any focusing issues, too.</p>

<p>I wouldn't worry too much about a dim view finder, not with the 135mm lens. The 180mm and 250mm can get a bit dim. Hopefully your C330F will have the taller, single action view finder. The single action finder almost makes a chimney when the magnifier is flipped up.</p>

<p>I wouldn't waste my time or money on any of Mamiya's clunky lens hoods. Hit sellers on the bay and get a $5, screw-on, rubber hood. I use $3, step-up rings, so I can utilize filters and hoods from my other gear.<br /> This saves a lot of money on different filters, should you get more lenses in the future. Mamiya TLR lenses were made with at least three different filter ring sizes, 49mm, 46mm and 40.5mm. Your 135mm should be a 46mm thread.</p>

<p>B&H Photo has some great prices on 'Optech' camera straps right now, about $14-22 dollars, some with free shipping.</p>

[dave_s]

<p>Mamiya TLRs are good cameras. I still have three of these things around-- a C3, a C33, and a C330f-- although I haven't used them for a couple of years. </p>

<p>The best source of descriptive information on Mamiya TLRs and accessories is <a href="http://www.btinternet.com/~g.a.patterson/mfaq/m_faq-contents.html">Graham Patterson's page</a>. Lens resolution data are <a href="../medium-format-photography-forum/0005l3">here</a>. If you have to replace seals, the procedure is <a href="http://herlent.daniel.free.fr/reparation/mamiya_c220/index.html">here</a>. (Seals are incidentally very easy to replace on a Mamiya TLR.)</p>

<p>These are true system cameras, with interchangeable finders, lenses, and even backs. Your C330f is the pinnacle of Mamiya TLR design, and many of the cognoscenti prefer it to the later C330s. The 135 will be a great head-and-shoulders portrait lens, IMHO anyway. It is not quite razor-sharp so it performs well for portraits. Frank's 180 Super (see above) is a different lens altogether and should provide better resolution, which may or may not be what you want for portraiture. <em>Chacun a son gout.</em></p>

<p>My personal fave lens with these things was the 105mm 'D' version, which is a five-element heliar-type design. It is sharp and has good edge performance, and I like the 105mm focal length anyway. YMMV.</p>

<p>One advantage nobody's mentioned: Mamiya TLRs have a very straight film path. The added volume of the camera (over, say, a Rolleiflex) permits this.</p>

[steve_levine]

<p>The first wedding shooter I assisted c1970's, shot with a Mamiya 220 TLR and it's 80MM lens. And he would shoot the entire wedding with <strong><em>no</em></strong> back up gear whatsoever! When I asked him about this years later. He said that was why he choose the Mamiya. In his defense he did carry a 2nd flash.</p>

[john_narsuitus]

<p>“Bless me, Father, I bought a camera.”</p>

<p>Bless you my son for your “new” Mamiya.</p>

<p>For years I shot with C2, C22, and C220 bodies and 180mm, 80mm, and 55mm lenses. In the 1970s and 1980s, I shot many weddings with these bodies and never had a problem.</p>

<p>Occasionally, I would attach a prism finder, a pistol grip, and a powerful flash so I could shoot night football with the 180mm at 1/500-second flash sync speed.</p>

<p>I never used the automatic shutter cocking bodies because a colleague of mine had more problems with his C330 jamming. Hopefully, you will not have that same problem with your C330f.<br>

. </p>

[wogears]

<p>Thanks for reminding me about the seals! I'm sure I can replace them if necessary; I'm okay with doing MINOR repair tasks. I'll probably look for a paramender at some point, but for portraits, I think I'll just keep the tripod level and put a five-centimeter mark on the center column.</p>

[craigd]

<p>My C2 came with a paramender. Haven't tried it yet, but it's pretty obvious how to use it. You could achieve the same effect (with a bit less convenience) simply by measuring the center-to-center displacement between the taking and viewing lenses (which I think should be the same for all lenses? else the paramender would only work for some of them), and remembering to raise your tripod by that much before taking each picture (carry a small ruler!). The paramender basically just makes it easier to do that.</p>

[wogears]

<p>@Craig: The distance between lenses is 5 cm. IF the tripod is level, and the camera is level as well, you can simply raise the center column by those 5 cm; however, if the tripod is off-level or the camera is tilted up or down, it won't work. That's where the paramender comes in--it tilts as you tilt the tripod head, and puts the 5taking lens in the exact same spot as the viewing lens. Whether I NEED this or not is another question. :-)</p>

[dave_s]

<p>For portraits, just use the parallax indicator in the viewfinder. It should be close enough.</p>

[mike_pearson]

<p>Hi Les,<br>

the aspect that I find most difficult to deal with on my C220 is the lower viewpoint given by a tlr held at waist level, and the reversed movement. I just got the solution - the prismatic finder transforms the camera. It only adds marginally to the already considerable weight, hardly reduces the apparent light level on the screen, and means you view at eye level.<br>

But Mamiya tlrs are addictive. Since reluctantly buying mine from a friend, I have gone out and bought 55, 135 and 180 lenses, and paramender.<br>

The lenses are easy to get into (one of mine was fogged with condensation, simple fix) and if one of your lenses does go down, chances are it will be the shutter, so fitting a different lens means the camera carries on working.<br>

Why use it to shoot brick walls? It's a waste of time and film. Just use it to take pictures. It will never resolve as well as my Contax G but I still love those big square negs.</p>

 

[wogears]

<p>It arrived. Looks very good. Shutter fires at all speeds, sounds right. Aperture is nice and symmetrical and the seals look good except for one which will be easy to replace when necessary. Bellows is fine, no wrinkles or leaks. Film should be here in a day or so. Brick wall is ready. It is absolutely essential to shoot a brick wall with any new camera. :)</p>

[wogears]

<p>Drat. Noticed one of the focusing knobs is cockeyed. Focus is smooth though, so it shouldn't be a problem.</p>

[mike_rosenlof2]

<p>Here are the things I would look for:<br>

Do the viewing and taking lenses focus at the same place? Photograph the brick wall wide open at an oblique angle with a marker to show your focus point. The sharpest focus on the neg should be at the same point.<br>

Is the frame spacing OK? If these cameras have a weakness, it is probably in the wind mechanism. Look at your first roll of film before you (or the lab) cuts it. Are the frames spaced reasonably evenly? It probably won't be perfect, but if it's close and there's no overlap, you're OK.<br>

The light seals that many have mentioned. Look at the negative edges.<br>

I like the 135mm a lot, but it seems to get mixed reviews. I have two and they're both sharp.<br>

Lens hoods are a good thing. You don't need special mamiya hoods for the 135, but if you get the 65mm, you'll want the right hood.<br>

Your tripod is your friend with this camera. That said, I'm trying to work on more handheld photos with mine.<br>

Don't forget to have fun!</p>

 

[jodys]

<p>Only problem I ever had with mine was with the cable release. It would trip the body lock, but not the shutter. So you press it in, something clicks, you wind to the next frame and take another shot.... and get a blank film. Easy fix with a big pair of pliers (mechanical linkage, just bent it so it trips the shutter a little sooner in the stroke). They're a wonderful camera, I regret selling mine even though I got a very good price for it.</p>

[peter_b__sydney_]

<p>FWIW, I gave up looking for the orginal metal lens hood and will now get a cheaper rubber one. My lens has a filter thread diameter 46mm. I found out the need for this the hard way by noticing way too much flare in some otherwise nice photos. I'm even thinking of using Farmer's reducer on the print or negs to deal with that flare !</p>

<p>I'm also about to perform the following film calibration testing for my C330 with the 80mm black lens.<br>

http://www.apug.org/forums/viewpost.php?p=1122485</p>

<p>The stouffer transmission step wedge is small so I need to focus as close as possible and must compensate for both parallax by raising the tripod (camera is level) and exposure by using the multiplier pointed to by the red line in the viewfinder that moves down into view upon focusing close.</p>