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80-200 f/2.8 AF-D back focusing ? Need help !!


orcama60

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<p>I received yesterday this lens and I tested today. I am impress with the build quality but I do believe, this lens is back focusing but I need your help to determine if it is really or not. I know this is a correctable issue. Please help. I am posting some pictures in normal and 100% cropping so you can see the problem that I see. <br>

Best regards,<br>

Maurice.</p><div>00YKey-337187584.jpg.098ce2f3bef11771b171e83c42593301.jpg</div>

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<p>I do see that in the firs picture, the palm tree is in focus but not the tiger. I aimed directly at the center of the tiger. In the last picture, ( the one above ), the palm tree on the left down corner is sharp but not the tiger. Is this back focusing ? On the last picture, I am aiming directly at the center of the tiger body. Use tripod. Single frame / 21 focus-points - focus priority : FOCUS / Auto-focus ( which is darn fast with this lens on my D300 ) so I don't know why is doing this.</p>
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<p>Thanks Shun, I would love to Shun, but honestly, I tested this lens in different focal distances and it is showing back focusing. Where to start ? I am noticing that is doing it from f/2.8 to f/4 and even at f/5.6 at different focal distances. Also, I do not have any idea how to do this. Trust me, I like the lens, very fast on my D300, real fast, built as a tank but this problem is frustrating me completely. </p>
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<p>While your test is far from a good reference, if you are focusing on the tiger, then it is front focusing I am seeing.</p>

<p>For a un-scientific test, place 4 or 5 AA batteries in a (V) formation.<br>

Level your tripod, center focus on the middle battery and have a look.<br>

Repeat at f/2.8...f/4...f/8. Try a few ranges from 20 feet to 100 feet.</p>

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<p>Thanks Kevin ... well, I did not know that. So it is front focusing then. Question, in case I find out how to adjust it via Fine Tune feature, it would be + or negative to correct this issue, do you have any idea ? </p>
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<p>Exactly Kevin, that is the same that I said long ago when I discuss it the Fine Tune issue in this forum. For a prime lens, should be easy but not for a zoom lens. I think I am going to return it and exchange for another lens ( probably the Nikon 105 f/2.8 VR ). </p>
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<p>I hate to say "I told you so", but:</p>

<p>1. Go to <strong><em><a href="00YKJk">THIS THREAD</a></em></strong><br>

2. Look about 5 posts down.<br>

3. Read it and tell me I was wrong.</p>

<p>If I am wrong, then send email me the RAW file so I can examine it and I'll eat my words.</p>

<p>RS</p>

<p> </p>

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<blockquote>

<p>that the <a id="itxthook0" rel="nofollow" href="../nikon-camera-forum/00YKey?start=10">camera</a> has some issues focusing or not</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Possible but not likely.<br>

A prime lens will prove if you have a bad AF module or mis-aligned sensor.</p>

<p>Do the test I mentioned.<br>

Use SINGLE focus point when you focus on the point of the (V) which is closest to you.<br>

The remaining batteries are arranged at equal distance behind the point of the (V) formation.</p>

<p>AA batteries are great for this since they have text on them.</p>

<p>Remember, the 80-200 is not a macro lens, so and focus issues are worse at short range.<br>

My 80-200 AF-D is great at 20 feet...but I had to get another one sent to me as the 1st was a bad copy.</p>

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<p>Rob, because I can see my focus point in Aperture 3 and it was centered at the center of the tiger. RS, why should I need all of your opinion to return and equipment that I bought? Simply, if I want to return it, I would, regardless of what your opinion is. Some people expressed in this forum, issues with this lens, so I am another one with it and I am not making it up. I am just trying to figure out if I am wrong or not about this issue because I never seen anything like it. Let's focus on that please. </p>
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<p>Maurice, you are the one who start this thread (as well as earlier threads on pretty much the same topic) and you expliciately asked for help. People are merely trying to help here, upon your request.</p>

<p>Some people find your test procedure might not be very accurate and they made suggestions. Why don't you carry out more tests to make sure that it is indeed a lens issue instead of a user issue? Of course you can return the lens if you want, but potentially, you may be returning a perfectly fine lens due to improper test procedures.</p>

<p>I have purchased some 40 new Nikon lenses in the last 3 decades and I have yet to find one that is defective, in addition to a number of test samples photo.net got from Nikon. Two weeks ago, for the first time I bought a refurbished Nikon lens and that lens is defective. So as long as you buy new, I would say the chance for a defective one is pretty low; I am sure that some are bad, but not many.</p>

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<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=5585318">Kevin Delson</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Frequent poster" src="../v3graphics/member-status-icons/1roll.gif" alt="" /></a>, Mar 04, 2011; 03:42 p.m.</p>

 

<p>PS: AF fine tuning is a fruitless endeavor with a zoom as the degree of BF/FF will change at various focal lengths. Works with primes, but zooms?...You will be chasing your tail.<br>

That is not the experience I had with my 80-400 and my 24-120, both had consistent focus errors at 3 separate points through zooming.</p>

 

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<p>You are very right Shun, I need help, not somebody telling me that just because I thought the lens may come with problem, I will get a bad lens. We should be positive in our life but not because you think something may be wrong you are going to get it. I do believe I have been asking about opinions to "help" me not to tell me not to thing negative or positive. </p>

<p>Right now I just finished testing my primes lenses ( 50, 35 and 150 ) and also I tested my 70-300 VR mounted on tripod ( all of them ) and I find out it is not my camera the problem. For an instance I thought it could be a bad AF module or sensor but I discarded it right now by doing this test. </p>

<p>Now going back to the 80-200 Shun, what other testing do you suggest I should do ? Could you help please ? Do you want me to post more pictures that I took today ? Your help guys, is very welcome and I am very grateful in advance of whatever assistance you may provide regarding this issue. </p>

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<p>Maurice, I too would suggest using only 1 AF point, with a single servo (AF-S instead of AF-C) setting. You can try with a flat wall and get your camera (the camera's sensor plane) as parallel to that wall as you can.</p>

<p>After that you can line up your camera at a 45-degree angle to the wall. AF to the middle of the wall at a large aperture to get a shallow depth of field. Check whether the intended middle part is the sharpest point or any area on that wall that is either closer or farther away is sharper. I would find a wall with some patterns so that it is easy to identify where the focus is. A wall that has uniform color and no pattern might not work very well for this purpose.</p>

<p>I hope this helps and good luck.</p>

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<p>Simple test: Single point center focus, let the camera focus and fire. All on a tripod. Best if you can use remote trigger or use timer.<br>

Now refocus, same subject, same spot, manually and fire.<br>

Target: Something with text inside of 15 feet, license plate maybe, same letter. If pix don't match, you're lens is not calibrated.</p>

 

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