kenneth_smith7 Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 <p>Sorry if this is the wrong forum. I see no Color Darkroom here.<br> So I very carefully have mixed an RA-4 Developer and Blix I found by William Laut online.<br> Triethanolamine, S. Sulfite, CD-3, Potassium Carbonate, and Sodium Chloride. ( sans Potassium Hydroxide )<br> The Blix is Ammonium Thiosulfate 60%. and Ferric Ammonium EDTA ( now impossible to find ).<br> Results have been a red test strip which does not vary regardless of filtration. I imagine the dye layers are not being fully penetrated? But really have no idea what to think. I've tried different temps, and different times, with the same red result. CD-3 is a year old as far as I know, stored properly. My paper is Fuji Crystal Archive, new.<br> Can anyone suggest anything to trouble shoot this? Seems like it would be nice to mix up a room temp. home brew RA-4, given the affordability of this color paper.<br> Thank You, Ken Smith</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_sunley Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 <p>There has been quite a discussion over the years on home brew colour chemistry on apug.org. Easiest way is the 10 liter kits of Kodak products that Adorama will ship in the USA. Used one shot with drums you can easily process 300 8x10 prints or equiv with 10 liters of each. The Kodak products work at room temp with Supra Endura, I don't about Fuji paper.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenneth_smith7 Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 <p>Thanks Bob, I checked APUG and read where the problem may be in the paper. Apparently Fuji requires a different formula and higher temps. It did however develop well in a no longer available Fotospeed Kit. Now I'll have to find a Fuji RA4 Developer as I have a few boxes of paper here I hope to use.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_sunley Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 <p>A cut and past from my browsing history. these guys have Fuji chems.</p> <p>http://www.libertyphotoproducts.com/</p> <p>but you may/will need a starter and I don't think it works well at room temp. AFAIK, the only one that works well at room temp is the Kodak RA/RT stuff, and I use it almost weekly at room temp, no starter needed.</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenneth_smith7 Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 <p>Indeed the RA/RT is the way to go with Kodak papers, room temp trays. But I am curious, having invested in the chemicals to make my own RA-4 , I wonder why my results are an unyeilding red. <br> APUG made a case against Fuji papers in room temp trays, but the RA-4 Home Brew from W. Laut mentions Fuji in the affirmative, where he states, "No need for brightners". He made no distinction between papers and only stated the need for longer times if the hydroxide was omitted.<br> I have a mystery on my hands, and it bugs me to remain stumped. </p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_sunley Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 <p>Sorry, can't help you with the whys. I vaguely remember some differences in the older vs newer Fuji papers, something to do with high speed laser exposures, or maybe not needing an orange mask for printing. Kodak's newer ones have similar properties/problems. Laut's article is from 1998, that could make a difference for paper types.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenneth_smith7 Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 <p>Thanks for your time Bob. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_sunley Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 <p>Not a problem, glad to help if I can.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugene_anikin Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 <p>A few steps to troubleshoot:<br> To see if it's your developer or the blix, run fully exposed strip through blix without developing it. Does it clear?<br> Develop and blix fully exposed and unexposed strips. Do you see any difference?<br> Experiment with adjusting pH. Even though Bill said KOH is optional, if your pH is off, your development can be problematic as well.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenneth_smith7 Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 <p>I'll give this a try tomorrow. I'm not chemical intelligent enough to know about pH. What is it?<br> How do you adjust it, why, and in what direction? Sorry, I do mix black and white chemistry from scratch, but I've never known about the qualities of, what I think is acidic vs. alkaia? </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenneth_smith7 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 <p>Sorry Eugene, too many complex questions. As for an update I found something I didn't expect. My filters in the Omega Chromatic were not moving. The dials moved but I found that the levels that carried the filters were not moving, so spent some time with steel wool and WD 40. Now we'll try that chemistry again. After all Fuji, even the new Fuji paper is RA-4. Should work. Thanks</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugene_anikin Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 <p>Glad you figured it out. On my enlarger there is a lever which disables filters. See if you have something similar on yours. I actually suspected something like that and that's why I suggested developing fully exposed and unexposed test strips. If the first one comes out black and the second white, it indicates that at least there is nothing terribly wrong with your chemistry ;-)<br> On your questions: pH is an indicator of how acid or alkaline the solution is. You adjust it by adding stronger acid or base. The developer activity increases with higher pH and/or higher temperature. That's why Bill's formula calls for adding KOH for room temperature. One thing you have to remember though, the formula is not an official RA-4 formula, and while it may work well with one type of paper, it may produce terrible results with another. As long as you are willing to accept that, it's ok to use. If it's your first foray into color printing, I strongly suggest buying some real RA-4 chemistry. Getting color filtration right will give you enough of a headache at first, and you really don't want to complicate things when you are just learning.<br> Good luck, and let us know how it went! I'm thinking about trying this formula myself, so I'm very interested in hearing about your experience.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenneth_smith7 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 <p>Thanks for all that info. Yes the Super Chromega has a white light setting that disables the filters. I was printing VC black and white yesterday and got the same contrast no matter where I went and also noticed the low light setting was not kicking in so I took it apart and low and behold, rust had finally caused the system to seize up. All clean now, but I need new glass filters it seems. Two were broken and partially chipped out. Oy Vey ebay, but my fault for not checking, as it worked for a year before this.<br> I've color printed fer pert near thirty years. All went into a Kreonite. This is my first mix your own chemistry. I ordered some Kodak as well. Things ought to be shaping up soon enough.<br> Thanks for your time, and good luck with that stuff. Long live darkrooms. Ken</p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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