Metering when rim light is the only light

[kevin_flossner]

<p>I'd like to photograph a dancer with only rim lighting. Somewhat similar to the image seen in this photo.net <a href="../photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00GF2D">thread</a> (whether that particular image has 100% rim lighting or has a bit of short lighting is not relevant here).</p>

<p>I'm not sure if spot metering (with camera or an external meter, I have a Sekonic 358) can work well because the scene has very high contrast and a very thin strip of light where controlling blown highlights is very important. The light will be a studio strobe. </p>

<p>One way is for trial and error, especially while shooting tethered. I'll try that, of course. However, advice for approaching this case would be appreciated, I won't always have the luxury of trial and error.</p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

Kevin</p>

 

[Matt Laur]

<p>I'd hold that L358 at the side of the subject, right where the light is transitioning from bright to dark, pointing it towards the light source.</p>

[lornesunley]

<p>Agree with Matt, do incident flash meter on the side of the subject towards the flash.</p>

[tim_ludwig2]

<p>Kevin, there may be a trickster hiding in this equation. Do exactly as Matt suggested but consider it as a possible point of departure. The reason is that rim light, depending on the source related to the camera position, could be involved with angle of incidence/angle of reflectance off of both the costume and the possibly sweaty skin. If so, that would magnify the brightness just like a mirrored surface. Sooooo, definitely take Matt's advice but also make some exposure adjustments on the underexposure side in your bracketing until you get the effect you are after.</p>

<p>Good luck. Sounds like some beautiful images are forthcoming.</p>

<p>Tim</p>

 

[picturesque]

<p>My experience and what I've been told is similar to Tim's description--rim light 'could' appear to be brighter than measured. Therefore, the rule of thumb I learned was that you use rim light at about 1 stop below what you'd expect. Of course, it depends on exactly how the rim light is hitting the subject and how much detail you want in the lighted parts.</p>

[kevin_flossner]

<p>Thanks to all. There's only skin to reflect the light for this planned shoot. Underexposing is a good idea. I'll do some tests at home first. </p>

 

[russ_britt3]

<p>You will also need to meter dark area in the scene, as to find your lighting ratio. Because the film or chip in your camera will only be able to read a contrast ratio lower than your eyes can read.<br>

So to capture both the highlights and the dark areas you will need to stay in a range that your camera can handle.<br>

Used to be with print film photographers would meter the dark area and allow the highlights to wash out a little, then correct this when printing. But that was long before photoshop.......and digital magic.</p>

[paco_rosso]

<p>The problem is what you see is the reflection of a counterlight, so if you measure the lighring (that the odl books call "incident") then you knos the lighint, not the brillance. It is preferable to measure the brillance, the reflected light from the camera position, or, at least, in the same line camera-model profile.</p>