stainless steel tanks

[ian_rose]

<p>This is a quick question. After useing Patterson plastic tanks for a long time system 3 and system 4 I came by some stainless steel tanks and reels in 35 mm and 120 sizes . So my question is how much chemistry do you use in each tank.</p>

<p>Ian R</p>

[gary_stallsworth]

<p>Can't say for sure. An easy way to check is to put in the reels, put on the cover, and then fill the tank with water. Pour the water out into a measuring container and you will have your answer.</p>

[frank_skomial]

<p>Stainless steel tanks come in different sizes, from different makers, like Omega, Prinz, etc.<br>

The smalest tank I have accepts 1 reel for one 110 film reel. Next is size accespts only one 35 mm film reel.<br>

Then next is size is tank that accepts one 120 type film, or one or two 35 mm film reels.<br>

Then, I have much taller stainless steel tanks, with the tollest that can accept up to 4 reels for 120 film, or larger number of smalle film reels.</p>

<p>The best is to fill in your tank with water, and reels inside, and see how much water was needed.</p>

<p> </p>

[JDMvW]

<p>My single 35mm roll tank takes a little over 200ml, but they do vary. You very much want to make sure the reel(s) is (are) completely covered by the developer, etc.</p>

<p>Of course, you also can simply pour in developer until the tank is full, but be sure to tap it to eliminate bubbles, etc.</p>

<p>If you do the water boarding, it's best to be sure that any reels you have used are completely dry before you try to load them with film.</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>The Nikor tanks iof the "Quick Fill" generation (concentric tubes in the fill spout) were sized in ounces. The one-reel 35mm was the Q8, takes 8 counces. The two-reel 35mm (also one reel 120/620) was the Q15, takes 15 ounces. The four-reel 35mm (also two reel 120/620) was the Q30, takes 30 ounces.</p>

[frank.schifano]

<p>Typically, stainless steel tanks need about 50 ml. of liquid for each 35 mm. reel and about 500 ml. for each 120 reel. The amounts do vary a bit, but that's a good average. It's best to check by placing the reels in the tank and filling it with water until they are just covered and a little bit more. Pour the water out into a graduate and you'll know. Round up to the nearest 50 ml. and you're good to go. It is not necessary to completely fill the tank as long as all the reels are covered when at rest. </p>

[ian_rose]

<p>Thanks guys as neither of the tanks I have have any Identifacition as to the manafacture I will have to do the water test and then mark it on a chart along with the capicties for the plastic tanks.<br>

PS. are there any tips for loading the stainless reels other than care and pratice.</p>

<p>Ian R</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>I'm sure Frank meant 250 ml per 35 mm reel!<br>

I often use 240 ml or 250 ml as the quantity to make up to make dilution ratios reasonably even from HC-110 or DD-X. For instance, with DD-X it's 200 ml water and 50 ml concentrate.</p>

[frank.schifano]

<p>Yes, thank you John. Finger check.</p>

[peter_schauss2]

<p>While we are on the subject, check that the stainless reels that you bought are not bent. Unless they are Nikor or Hewes reels you may want to think about getting some Hewes reels as they are much easier to load than the generic ones. </p>

[cj8281]

<p>John S. My Nikor tanks take 15oz for 1 120 reel or 16oz for 2 35mm reels.</p>

[robert_stukey2]

<p> Forget about one reel tanks, as soon as you start dealing with skys, trouble happens with mottled tonalities. You want an airgap above your reels. No the airgap won't cause air bubbles on your negatives. Just remember to give the tank three good raps on the table before you start your inversions. Those raps on the table only need to happen in the first 30 second inversion cycle. They will eliminate the bubbles and the initial surface tension from the film being dry. That surface tension causes the air bubbles to become a concern.</p>