hexar rf random film rewind r

[gu_ca]

<p>Hello, my hexar rf rewinds randomly films before 37th view, no error message appears on hte little screen. Does someone know this problem ?</p>

[SolaresLarrave]

Your camera is shorting somewhere. It needs professional service. That's the only thing I can say. Best of luck!

[joop]

<p>I have found the following some time back on the internet, and saved it on my computer, might help you:</p>

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<p>"Hexar RF film advance error <br />I recently purchased a Hexar RF, it's in excellent condition but once in a few times I turn on the main switch, <br />the frame counter read will return to 0 and the motor automatically advances a frame to make it 1.<br /><br />For example, I shoot 12 frames and turn the camera off. The next time I turn it on, there is a high chance for me to find the frame counter showing 0 and the motor advances to make it 1, but I'm acutally on frame 13.<br /><br />It seems the camera will only auto-rewind when it hits frame 37 on the frame counter. But since it always goes back to 0 and then 1 so it never auto-rewinds — I have to use the manual rewind button to force it rewind.<br /><br />Any idea about what I'm up to people?<br /><br />I googled and it doesn't seem to be a common problem: all I get are praises of the motor. I live in Canada and it's a darn royal pain getting staff from KEH, with all the COD and clearance thing. Plus, this copy of Hexar RF really is in nice cosmetic condition and the film advancing is the only problem I have encountered so far. That is, I am trying not to send it back and forth...unless it turned out to be something I can't get rid of myself. Thanks for the help,<br /><br />Answers<br /><br />The memory is forgetting the frame number when you turn off the camera. That memory relies on battery power. So perhaps there is some reason that the battery power to that memory is ureliable.<br />Most obvious possible cause would be that the battery is weak. Another possible cause is intermittent battery contact. Gently wipe all the contacts with a soft cloth. If they look all scratched up from someone trying to clean them with something scratchy, there may be no hope.<br /><br />--<br />I just fixed this on my Hexar RF, and posted it over on rangefinderforum.com. The fault appears to be dirty <br />contacts on the switch that senses the film door is shut.<br /><br />Try the following. I'd like to see it work in one other camera before I conceed "it's the fix":<br /><br />I took my "user" HEXAR RF off the shelf yesterday with the intent of "exercising" it. Popped in a fresh roll, <br />counter up to "1", walked around a bit, looked down and notice it back to "0" -- the dreaded film transport issue. <br />Power-cycled it, and it advanced three frames, back to "1". With some shaking and fiddling I was able to repeat this enough times to expend the entire roll, unexposed (still have one of those leader-puller-thingys in the bag --- end of roll, 0 on the counter, and hit manual rewind and you don't get the rewind leader pause). This camera had this issue years ago, and it was fixed by K-M repair in Japan, just before the Sony sale.<br /><br />Video of the fault:

/><br />I took a quick look through the service manual and camera schematic and found that the rear door switch is noted as "normally open", which implies that closing the camera back closes the switch, which I am guessing, if there is any corrosion on the contacts, will open contact sporadically and tell the camera the back was opened.<br /><br />Before I sent it out again, I decided to try some heavy duty electronics switch and corrosion cleaner.<br />The switch location is visible... with the back of the camera open, look along the light baffle channel on the bottom, <br />about 1/3 of the width of the camera in from the left. You will see a small opening in the channel, with a switch post <br />about 1mm in diameter protruding... this is the switch that senses if the back is closed. It is wired directly to a pin on the camera microprocessor (as an aside, it looks like it cannot be removed/chnaged out by simply removing the bottom -- based on the service manual, it takes almost full dis assembly to remove it or swap it out. You can see it, though, if you take off the bottom).<br />I opened the film back, and I applied some DeoxIt to the switch. RadioShack sells a 5% spritzer kit; I purchased a needle-spout bottle of 100% stuff directly from the manufacturer -- about US$30 (part number D100L-25C)<br /><br />With the back open I used a toothpick to push down the button (opening up the cavity around it) and held it down; with the other hand I applied 4 or 5 drops of the 100% stuff via the "needle" dispenser I purchased it in. I left the camera lens/face-down overnight on the table to let gravity take it into the interior of the switch. The DeoxIt specs says that it is plastic-safe.<br /><br />So far, two passes the next morning with a "dummy" roll, shaking, pressing the back and power cycling the camera as I did on the video, no "zeroes". I have now put three rolls through it and it hasn't done it.<br />Give it a try. If you try something other that Deoxit (www.caig.com) you are on your own; make sure it won't destroy the plastic case of the switch. "<br>

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It's not mine, and I do not remember anymore where I have copied it from, but I hope it is of some use!</p>

[bill a.]

<p>It's mine, and that Hexar RF still works terrific since the fix.<br>

Bill</p>