Rolleiflex 3.5F Flash

[max_barstow]

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I want to learn about using flash (something to which I am completely new); I essentially want to learn to use it for low-lighting situations, when available-light isn't acceptable. I don't want anything which looks like it was obviously done with a flash (like Bruce Gilden), and want to be able to use it indoors and outdoors.</p>

<p>I have a Rolleiflex 3.5F, what flash can I get for this that is good? I also have no idea about how to meter using flash, what kind of meter you need, how you take distance into account, how to use 'bounce' flash (or what this properly means), how the power of the flash effects things; I'm totally clueless here, so please assume nothing!</p>

<p>Thanks, Max</p>

[leicaglow]

<p>I would take a look at Metz flashes. I've used them forever, and the newer ones have the ability to attach bounce cards, or you can use the built in bounce and diffusion filters. If you get a good flash, then it pretty much handles the exposure for you, pretty accurately.</p>

<p>Normally I use a couple of Sekonic meters that have flash capability, but I was on an assignment and dropped my meter off a bridge. The only meter I could get at a local camera shop was a Paterson. It should cost less than $100 from an online store, and it was very accurate. The meter takes the distance into account automatically, just like an incident meter wouldn't care how close the light source (sun) is from the meter, it would just tell you how much light you have. With a flash meter, it just tells you what f/stop to use. Technically, you can get such weak flash pop that the meter wouldn't read it, or it would be at f/1.4, which you couldn't use with your camera.</p>

[john carter]

<p>Thanks for the response Michael, as I also would like to use my Rolleiflex T with flash. Like Max, I want to be subtle with my flash. I know how to get the fstop for the subject with my umbrella and strobe using the flash meter, but I would like to also know how you meter for say bounce flash or auxiliary flashes for the back ground (still subtle and maybe just a little darker than the umbrella flash).</p>

<p>By the way, I have your Leicaglow site on my bookmarks, I'm from Oregon and really enjoy your work.</p>

<p>John Carter</p>

[max_barstow]

<p>What are bounce cards, bounce filters and diffusion filters? Why can't you control the exposure with shutter speed rather than aperture? Surely controlling it with aperture means you can't control the depth of field at all? Finally, what effect does shutter speed have when using a flash? Does it work in the same way as without? Cheers</p>

[john carter]

<p>You need to do some reading, this site I'm not crazy about because they are almost 100% digital and they have a 'feel' that is not subtle, but you might start here, and then go to other tutorials:<br>

<a href="http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html">http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html</a></p>

<p>Flash is hard, but not that hard. Just remember Manual Flash is the best, but you have to have the equipment (flash meter, and a manual power control on your flash). </p>

[michael_madio]

<p>Get a good auto flash like a Metz 45. The auto modes work very well and you don't need a meter for casual/candid shooting. Using an auto flash is very easy ... just set the flash to match your ISO and aperture on camera. The sensor on the flash will automatically adjust the output as required and will automatically compensate for bounce or diffusers. The shutter won't affect the flash exposure so you adjust it to expose the ambient light (1/500 will make for dark backgrounds while 1/60 will make them lighter, etc.).</p>

[max_barstow]

<p>Michael, I'm keen to learn to use it maually, and have that option; much better to understand what you're doing before you hand control to a computer. I've done a bit of reading, and have a better idea of how it all works; what sort of guide number do I want, to allow for probable use of bounce flash, maybe using one of those bare-bulb flash adapters (they look quite handy!). I also heard having too high a guide number (ie. too much power) can make it hard to get a natural looking scene?</p>

[michael_madio]

<p>Max,</p>

<p>Using fully manual flash works well when using the flash straight on which is generally the least flattering option. Bouncing manual flash will definitely make it look more natural/flattering but bouncing introduces many variables which will result in inconsistent exposures as you can no longer use simple guide number calculations. If you are intent on using the flash manually and with bounce your best bet is to use a flash meter. I would also avoid any flash "adapters" and use a simple bounce card (index card with rubber band). I completely agree about learning to do things manually so you better understand how something works but there is also the practical element that must be considered as well. Remember that thousands of weddings have been shot with medium format cameras and auto flashes (Vivitar 283/285, Metz 45, Metz 60, etc). About power, when using studio flash systems, too much power can definitely be a problem but when using mobile flashes and bounce you will be glad you have the extra power when you need it.</p>

[red_buckner]

<p>I may be an exception, but I get more consistent flash results when I use the sensor on the flash unit itself--as opposed to the TTL sensor in the camera body. I set the camera on Manual, set its shutter at X speed, set the aperture at the f-stop dictated by the flash gun, and fire away. When I've double-checked the light output with a flash meter, it is always exactly what it's supposed to be. As for multi-flash and bounce setups, you have two choices: a flash meter or a lot of math. Old manuals about flash actually had equations for the light delivered by complicated multi/bounce setups. I've tried them, and the results are dead accurate if I get the math right. That, in my case, is a big if. BTW, that Rollei F can give you drop-dead results in almost any light. It's one of the greatest cameras ever. </p>