Callibration workflow.

[mart_e]

<p>OK - I feel a bit silly posting this, as it is something that I should be able to resolve myself, but instead I've ended up hitting my head against a brick wall.</p>

<p>I'm after a resource that can take me through step by step the process of callibrating my system.</p>

<p>I had previously used various sites to set up my monitor for web-proofing and was reasonably happy with the results. My problem is that I now have an Epson 3880, and I'm struggling to get to a WYSIWYG in relation to screen > printer. I am consistently getting darker prints than are shown on screen, and getting slight colour irregularities (ie images very slightly too cyan or red etc..)</p>

<p>I use a Nikon D90 (set to Adobe RGB 1998) - process RAW via Nikon Capture NX. Tweak before exporting TIFF (ensuring still in Adobe RGB 1998).</p>

<p>I then bring image into Photoshop CS2 (working space set to Adobe 1998) and tweak away.</p>

<p>My problem is that no matter how I convert the file for proofing (Whether switching to one of Epson's own profiles for various paper types) or use soft proofing I just cannot get images matching once I print out (on Epson Premium Glossy or Fuji Pro Satin)</p>

<p>I have got to the point where I realise I need to take a few steps back and go back to first principles. I realise that I shouldn't use my own images in trying to callibrate as they are not necessarily 'true' - but I have the same problem with various callibration images.</p>

<p>The odd thing is that I haven't had this problem before. Editing images at home on this system and then taking to work for printing (on an old Epson 1290 and a newer R1800) - prints have been fairly accurate compared to screen.</p>

<p>Many thanks,<br>

Martin</p>

[brad_smith8]

<p>Dark prints are a result of a too bright monitor. You'll need software and a device like a Spyder3 Pro, then just read the directions - it's easy.</p>

[roger_smith4]

<p>Are you using a Mac? There have been a number of problem reports. Regardless of your OS, download the latest 3800 drivers from Epson and see if that helps things. The other option is what Brad points out, but a R1800 shouldn't be any different from your 3800.</p>

[Charles_Webster]

<p>You'll never get to WYSIWYG without a hardware calibrator for your monitor. Just do it, the puck will pay for itself many times over in good prints, instead of wasted ones.</p>

<p><Chas></p>

[jeff_ford]

<p>I'd be wary of Spyder, I have Elite 3 with version 4 software and its shockingly inaccurate. Some people swear by it, though it seems those that have had more than one report them as very variable</p>

<p>Mine's a dud</p>

[mart_e]

<p>Thanks for the comments, I'm using a PC with XP, and the drivers are the latest from Epson (as of Saturday).</p>

<p>To some extent I can deal with the darkness issue, it's consistent and I can alter the screen brightness to compensate for the shadows (although this tends to blow the highlights so I need to work on them first then alter the screen). More of a problem is the colour, where prints tend to have too much cyan, red or yellow in them. The fact that it is inconsistent is the real issue, I can't seem to set anything up that deals with it across the range of images.</p>

<p>I have chatted to a few people regarding the various hardware callibration tools, and the consensus amongst those I spoke with was that they were not worth the £ - admitedly this is a small sample of people, and who's to say that they were using it correctly. I'm willing to be convinced though - at this stage I'll take anything that helps.</p>

<p>Irrespective of using a tool or trying it manually, Does anyone have a link to a good tutorial that explains the process of callibrating the whole system ? I've found plenty that deal with part of the workflow, or brightness, or Photoshop etc. but nothing that takes that step back and looks at the whole thing.</p>

<p>Many thanks,<br />Martin</p>

[mart_e]

<p>I've done some more digging around, and found a very useful resource that also contains links to other articles, but this one seems pretty good at describing the overall issues involved (and that I'm experiencing):<br>

<a href="http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/match_prints_to_screen.html">http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/match_prints_to_screen.html</a></p>

<p>One thing that had escaped my attention until reading that article - we are using energy saving bulbs, and that seems to make a big difference to colour perception (something we are not using at work - hence printing on the R1800 there does not have the same issues).</p>

<p>Looks like a day spent reading is called for.</p>

<p>Martin</p>

[patricklavoie]

<blockquote>

<p>I have chatted to a few people regarding the various hardware callibration tools, and the consensus amongst those I spoke with was that they were not worth the £ -</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>stop talking to them.</p>

<p>A hardware calibrator is the most important tool in your digital darkoom IF you want a color manage workflow.. meaning if you dont want to print zillion of print to get the result you want and need.</p>

<p>Get one, calibrate your monitor, and come back here for more questions ; )</p>