Two new SLRs in the cupboard

[k5083]

<p>I don't know about the rest of you, but I found the June 19-20 weekend extraordinarily loaded with tempting items on the auction site. I generally set my snipes on Fridays, and the weekend's closing listings provided me with 15 or 20 tempting things to aim for, mostly 35mm SLRs of various kinds. I am a lowballer so I was not surprised to prevail on only two auctions. But, interesting prizes they were.<br>

<img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/DSC05289.jpg" alt="" /><br>

The Nikon FM was listed by the seller as being fully functional, including the shutter and meter, but the auction photos showed enough brassing of the black body to keep most bidders away, allowing me to score it for $26 with no lens. When it arrived, the seller's description proved optimistic. The meter did work perfectly, and the shutter sounded good on all speeds, but something is wrong with the linkage between the winding mechanism and shutter. When the camera is wound to the next frame, one of three things (unpredictably) happens: (1) the shutter cocks normally, (2) the shutter cocks but then immediately fires, or (3) the shutter cocks but then half-fires, leaving the camera jammed with the shutter open and the mirror up. I discovered that when #3 happens, either turning the shutter speed dial through its speed range or delivering a sharp rap to the bottom of the camera causes it to complete the cycle and close.</p>

<p>At first this seemed like very bad news. However, while playing with the various controls on the camera I found a workaround. The depth-of-field preview lever on the FM, when engaged, forces the mirror into the down position. I discovered that if I held the DOF preview engaged while advancing the film, it wound and cocked properly every time. It took me about half an hour to figure this out, and another half hour to give the camera new foam all around, which it clearly needed. So an hour after it came in the mail, I was out shooting a test roll.<br>

<img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/FM0610-03.jpg" alt="" /><br>

This is the first Nikon camera I have ever owned. I have no Nikkor lenses, but I do have a Nikon adapter for my collection of T4 lenses. Unfortunately my adapter is pre-AI, but metering in stop-down mode was not that big of a deal. I did the test shooting with a Vivitar (T4) 28/2.8. At least the lens was automatic to the extent that I could compose and focus wide open.<br>

<img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/FM0610-05.jpg" alt="" /><br>

It would of course be grossly inappropriate to form an opinion of one of the world's most prolific camera makers on the basis of one beat-up, 30-year-old exemplar, but here goes: Nikon seems to have made pretty good cameras. Despite the known issues, this camera felt comfortable and confidence-inspiring, compact yet solid. Ergonomically, everything was great except for the use of the winding lever to turn on the meter and unlock the shutter. It must have seemed like a Great Idea to the Nikon engineers back in the day to save a button or switch with this elegant dual use of the lever, but I missed several quick shots because I habitually push the advance lever back in after winding and before shooting. Also, the wind-lever-power function is great if you sight through the finder with your right eye and shoot vertical shots with the takeup side up, as the FM manual instructs; I, however, do things the opposite way, and as a result, the need to leave the wind lever hanging out found me poking it into my right eye during horizontal shots and picking my nose with it during verticals.<br>

<img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/FM0610-16.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/FM0610-15.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<strong>Same Tree Different Mood</strong></p>

<p>My hold-down-DOF while shooting kluge proved easy to remember, and the penalty for forgetting is not too bad. About half the time I get away with it and the shutter functions normally; the other times, all I lose is one frame of film, and the problem doesn't ruin frames I've already shot. One day I'll have to repair or get it repaired, of course. In the meantime I've made up a little reminder placard, like many of my cameras are starting to wear:<br>

<img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/DSC05290.jpg" alt="" /><br>

Overall, I figured I got $26 worth of camera.<br>

<img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/FM0610-11.jpg" alt="" /><br>

The question now, of course, is which Nikon AI-and-later lenses to shop for. <br>

<img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/FM0610-19.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<strong>Not Bad Colors for Cheap CVS Film</strong></p>

<p>The other acquisition of the weekend was the Mamiya-Sekor 1000 DTL. I had been looking for one of these for a while, wanting to try an M42 alternative to my Spotmatics and intrigued by the limited-area metering capability. The auction was illustrated by one fuzzy photo and the seller made no representations other than "as is", so it was a crapshoot, and not all that surprising that I became the camera's owner for $12, including the Sekor 55/1.8 lens. This one had a good deal of brassing too, but the shutter looked and sounded good, as did other aspects except the foam, which was in terrible shape. The wide-area meter didn't work, but the limited area one did. The cap/button on top of the wind spool has come off, but the pin that switches off the camera still works. The lens appears perfect. Again, I figure I broke even.<br>

<img src="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m12/k5083/DSC05291.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>This was my first 35mm Mamiya, but it reminded me of my RB67s in many ways. Like the RB, it is not a precision piece of workmanship like the Nikon or many of my other favorite cameras. A lot of parts of it only sort of fit together, and it makes a lot of creaks and squeaks in operation. But, like the RB, the thing is so over-engineered that I feel confident in it despite the quality control lapses. </p>

<p>The test roll is still in this camera, so I don't have any results to post yet; just some thoughts on operation. Coincidentally, these two cameras are the only two SLRs I have that use the advance lever as a power switch. I much prefer the Mamiya implementation, where you pull out the lever and then push it back in to engage the meter. I especially like the fact that you can push it back in after metering and go ahead and take pictures without it jabbing your face. I think I prefer this system over the Spotmatic's, as well. And I do like using the spot-like meter. This has a good chance of becoming my go-to M42 camera. Or maybe I'll buy another DTL that's in better shape!</p>

<p> </p>

[Mike Gammill]

<p>Yeah, you might want to look for some Nikkors, but the Vivitar wasn't half bad. Nice thing about the FM is that if you don't mind stop down metering many of the pre-AI lenses can be quite a bargain. For a normal the 50mm f2 is a good start, although in non-AI even the 50mm f1.4 may be tempting. I own the 50mm f2 AI version and really like it. I also own the 28mm f3.5 AI Nikkor and like it. The 105mm f2.5 Nikkor is another lens that is well-regarded. It's the next one I plan to get to use with my FE-2.<br>

The Mamiya brings back memories. My dad had a Mamiya 1000 TL with the 55mm f1.4 lens. I learned to use an SLR with that camera. <br>

While your acquisitions may show some brass they are still very capable picture takers. Enjoy.</p>

[craigd]

<p>Interesting acquisitions. I shoot a Nikon FE and am extremely fond of it. What Nikkors you get of course depends on what you like to shoot, but my short list of recommended lenses includes the 20mm f/4 AI, the 28mm f/2.8 AI-S (with better optics than the earlier AI version), the 50mm f/1.4 or f/1.8 AI or AI-S, the 85mm f/2 AI-S, and the 200mm f/4 AI. The 300mm f/4.5 AI-S is nice too, but a bit on the large and heavy side, and the f/4.5 maximum aperture blacks out the FM's split-prism focusing screen. Unfortunately the FM, as I recall, does not allow for replaceable focusing screens; on my FE I simply installed a K3 screen (designed for the FM3a), which never seems to black out no matter how slow the lens is.</p>

[User_502260]

<p>There is some exposure adjustment needed when using the K3 screen in an FE. I have an E screen in one FE and a K screen in the other. My Mamiya M42 camera is a 500 DTL. Was the original film advance lever on the black 1000 DTL silver? </p>

[craigd]

<p>Jeff, thanks for mentioning that, I neglected to say that I set +0.5 exposure compensation when I put the K3 in.</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>Nice.The pictures are great.</p>

<p>Congratulations. People used to love that brassed look - meant you were a real professional. ;)</p>

<p>I just won a Canon T90 this last week too, finally after years of being #2 bidder, so I was out shooting today too.</p>

[Andy Collins]

<p>Nice catches, August. The shots from the Nikon are very nice and I'm looking forward to the shots from the Mamiya. Like Craig, I have an FE that I love to use. It has a very smooth, high quality feel to it and the few Nikkors that I have are excellent. Enjoy your new toys!</p>

[subbarayan_prasanna]

<p>The pictures look very good and sharp; you might do just as well without the Nikon lenses. sp.</p>

[Lou_Meluso]

<blockquote>

<p>Nikon seems to have made pretty good cameras. </p>

</blockquote>

<p>Amen, brother. Love the shot of your Fat Strat. Great color!</p>

[rick_drawbridge]

<p>I can't comment on the Nikon, August, not being a Nikon aficionado, but I do have a couple of Vivitar 28's and rate them highly. I'm sure you'll enjoy the Mamiya; I'd never really thought about it being like the RB67, but you're quite right, both of them being a collection of high quality components put together in a somewhat unseemly fashion. That's a great lens, and I look forward to seeing some results from your first film.</p>

[LMar]

<p>"People used to love that brassed look - meant you were a real professional. ;)"<br>

Yes, there's just something about a bit of brass peeking out from black paint . . .<br>

Nice shots, and cool Strat. Dimarzio double-coil pickups in the bridge position?</p>

 

[k5083]

I have to confess the axe is really a Bullet made in Asia under Fender's Squier brand. Sounds better than you might think though. This model with the humbucker in the middle just came out this year. It occurred to me when buying it that guitars generally mirror the price range of new DSLRs, from several hundred to a few thousand, but with guitars the major makers still produce $100 entry level models that are quite capable; something long gone in cameras. One might mutter darkly about conspiracies but I guess there might be minimum costs of producing DSLR components that make it impossible. Anyway besides being cheap enough to be expendable, the Bullets have decent build quality and materials, other than the electronics. They're popular with tinkerers who gut them and put in new pickups and hardware. I bought mine so I could practice while staying at a hotel and not worry about it while I was away all day, but I like it enough that I've kept playing it.

[chuck_foreman1]

Love that Bullet Strat. Like Louis said; nice color! Looks like you cleaned up on the weekend auctions. I alos like brassing and take it as a sign of use. My jeans have holes in them, but I wore them there.. I hate that you buy jeans pre ripped and torn! Your analysis on the build quality applies to some other makes too!

 

Thanks

[k5083]

<p>Thanks for the comments and suggestions guys. Regarding Nikkor lenses, one thing that strikes me in looking through the auction listings is that it is easier to find portrait-length primes in Nikkor (85mm, 105mm, etc.) than most other brands. They ain't cheap, but they're there. Most lens systems have a gap between standard and 135mm, which is a bit too long for me. So I'm attracted to those.</p>

<p>Thinking about it, and maybe this is because so many other things in photography work this way, I usually like to carry sets of lenses in "log-2" series. Thus my ideal set would be something like 25mm, 50mm, 100mm, 200mm, 400mm, each double the length of the prior. Another possible series would be 17mm, 35mm, 70mm, 150mm, 300mm. Either way, there is that short-tele shot that often is difficult to fill.</p>