120 Camera restoration - film view window

[coomber]

<p>Looking to fix up an old 120 roll camera (Ensign Autorange 220 - beautiful machine) but the red plastic window on the rear door has been split at somepoint. I know I could just tape over it, and as this camera only needs it to find frame number 1, it should all work fine, but I'd rather restore it properly if I can.</p>

<p>I can't seem to find a supplier of the stuff, presumably I can just cut out anything that's the right thickness and colour - anyone been here before/got sensible suggestions?</p>

<p>Many thanks,</p>

<p>Craig.</p>

[User_502260]

<p>You might look for any old box type camera which has a large enough ruby window. If it can be removed carefully it could be cut down to the size you need. A Dremel or similar grinding tool should work. </p>

[john_shriver]

<p>You can get multi-colored tabs for hanging file folders at an office supply store.</p>

[coomber]

<p>Makes sense, thanks Jeff.</p>

<p>I'd rather not destroy one old timer to fix another if I can help it though. Just seems wrong to me - camera organ donor cards?!?</p>

[JDMvW]

<p>This is almost certainly preaching to the choir, but just for the record in case someone who actually doesn't know reads this:</p>

<p>If you are using modern panchromatic film the red window needs to be covered while shooting for safest results. As most here are most likely aware, the old films (orthochromatic) were not sensitive in the red part of the spectrum.<br /> I understand and applaud the desire to replace the red window with something that looks like the original. Perhaps another source for red plastic would be a relatively thick "report" cover. If there is room and the film back won't drag against it, you might be able to mount a square on the inside without cutting it to the round shape. That depends on the camera, of course. I also wonder if a thicker piece might not be cut down from the edges of a broken brakelight cover at your local body shop?</p>

[chuck_foreman1]

I have seen Tic-Tac packages.. in green and orange! I donT' know if Orange is "safe" enough.. is there a cherry Tic-Tac?!?

I like the idea of the stationary store. Plastic file indices come in many colors and like JDM mention a report cover or plastic folder!

[t_nu_tamm]

<p>You could try UV-curing adhesive sold in car repair shops. I restored the shattered acrylic window of my lightmeter and the cracks are practically invisible now. Red window might still need many times more exposure to UV (hours instead of seconds, maybe).<br>

For practical use with modern films green glass could be better- this is where human eye has highest sensitivity.<br>

If you make the filter thicker, say n times you reduce the fogging n times but the visibility n² times, since light has <br>

to penetrate the filter twice.</p>

[joseph_c._ohlsen]

<p>First, any clear red plastic with sufficient thickness/stiffness will serve as a replacement. Cut out a circle or punch one out using a metal tube/pipe of sufficient diameter. </p>

<p>Next, us old timers had pan film in the good old days, Verichrome Pan for one and others. We all ran the film through our red window box cameras and Ciro-flexes without any problems and it was sufficiently "fast" to fog if it wanted to but it didn't. So lets not perpetuate the myth of modern pan film being too sensitive for old cameras, etc. That misinformation is already being bandied about on the web and enough people are believing it. </p>

[john_shriver]

<p>On my Ikonta C, I found 100 or 125 speed film was fine. But I did find I needed a bit of tape over the window for 400 speed film.</p>

[derek_kennedy]

<p>I have an old Kodak No 2 Brownie that had the red plastic window broken (age deteriorated the plastic and it got too brittle) - so I was going to replace it with a red piece of plastic that came with a flashlight.</p>

<p>The red plastic was used to snap onto the front of the flashlight for use at night (well, duh!) and keep your night vision. It seems to be of sufficient thickness (actually its thicker than the broken piece) and shade/colour to be of a good replacement, I just need to cut it to size.\</p>

<p>Think that would be ok, Joseph? The camera is in awesome shape considering its age, works great (love the photos I have taken with it so far which is only one roll of film lol!) and would love to keep it usuable!</p>

[leicaglow]

<p>A couple of ideas: 1) perhaps a red safety filter from an enlarger. 2) combine filters (Magenta and Yellow). 3) A good paper store or crafts store might well have it.</p>

[curt_saxton]

<p>I've used both a red bingo chip and red cellophane before. Prefer the bingo chip.</p>

[Lou_Meluso]

<p>A old kodak 3x3" wratten 25 red gel filter. Pretty common. Quite thin but very tough. It might work. </p>

[timwitt]

<p>Good idea Derek, I have a red lens for my Maglite AA flashlight and have seen every Maglite and Victorinox part known to man at Boulineau's hardware in North Myrtle Beach (Cherry Grove), SC. I don't expect the're the only ones to have the parts and it would be perfect.</p>

[derek_kennedy]

<p>Yeah thanks Tim - I think that the red filter thingy would be good, I just have to cut it down to shape.</p>

[JDMvW]

<blockquote>

<p>Next, us old timers had pan film in the good old days, Verichrome Pan for one and others. We all ran the film through our red window box cameras and Ciro-flexes without any problems and it was sufficiently "fast" to fog if it wanted to but it didn't.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>How fast would that be, Joseph? "Fast" film normally available in 1939 was only rated at 125 on the Weston scale. By a few years later, a few films like some Ferrania and Gevaert were getting up to Weston 250; but most films were much slower.<br /> If I overplayed the danger of fogging from red light leakage, and I admit I may have, I think you are going too far in the other direction. There was a reason those little metal covers were added to these cameras as time went by. After all, a little bit of black tape is not a big cost or trouble. Especially if people are trying to shoot these cameras with ISO 400 film, it's not a bad idea.<br /> Besides, when I look at old family photos in the antique store, I see <em>plenty</em> of examples of light leaks around the edges of pictures.</p>

[rdm]

<p>Do a search for Rubylith on the auction site. It is red plastic sheets of Mylar that is very popular to replace those broken OEM frame counter windows.<br /> Stuff is perfect for this. Just the right Opacity.<br /> I have 3 cameras on which I used that stuff for the frame counter window.<br /> I was even thinking about having someone make a vacuum mold or just a regular mold where i can place a sheet on it and put it in the oven and then have a bunch of the red plastic button windows but i don't think it would work or be worth it</p>

[coomber]

<p>Thanks guys, fairly sure I'll get the window reglazed now.</p>