question about d-76 temp and measurements

[paulo_arellano]

<p>back in school we had to fill our tanks with 11oz of developer (d-76) and 11oz of water. I have a gallon of D-76 here at home thats been mixed with water, Do i fill my tank with 22oz of this mixture if my tank has two rolls of films? and do i fill it up with half of this measurement (or as long as the first roll is covered) if im only developing one film roll? </p>

<p>and my other question is this, my developer is a bit warm so in order to achieve the right temp can i put it in the fridge for a minute or two?</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Do you have stock strength developer or working strength mixed? See tech pub <a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j78/j78.pdf">J78 </a>.<br>

Fill the tank to the very top with film/reels inside, if processing 1 roll of film put it on bottom. Partially filling a tank leads to other problems such as streaks and pin holes.</p>

<p>You can put the entire gallon or a portion of it in the fridge or freezer to drop the temperature to working temperature. A trick a photo instructor used was to add a standard ice tray cube of ice to the developer just before processing, by the time it melted the temp was perfect. He was using 70 degree water and D76 1:1 one shot.</p>

[paulo_arellano]

<p>i have kodak d-76 gallon powder mixed with a gallon of water, does that mean i have to look at the Developer (1:1) chart?</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>You have stock solution. You can dilute it 1:1 and pour out at the end of the development using the 1:1 table or use it straight and pour it back into the gallon jug at the end of development. Most photographers use it 1:1, no number of rolls developed and time compensations to keep track of.</p>

[ken_l2]

<p>Paulo - If you mix the one gallon powder packet with one gallon of water (as per the mixing instructions) you have what is called the "stock solution," and that is what you'd look at on the developing chart.</p>

<p>If you mix the "stock solution" with an equal amount of water, then you'd have a 1:1 strength solution, and only then you'd look at the 1:1 chart.</p>

<p>For example, if your tank holds 16 oz. of developer, and you wished to use a 1:1 solution, you'd mix 8 oz. of the stock solution with 8 oz. of water to produce 16 oz. of 1:1 solution. </p>

<p>BTW, when you use the developer at 1:1, it is a 'one-shot' developer - you use it once and then dispose of it. You cannot reuse a 1:1 solution. </p>

[paulo_arellano]

<p>oh man i see now, my tank holds 22oz so i can use 11oz of my stock solution and 11oz of water, correct? and can i add really cold water to my 11oz of stock solution to make it the rigth temp?</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Also, you mix the 1:1 just before using it.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p><strong>Yes!</strong></p>

[paulo_arellano]

<p>nice, im going to give it a try tonight and see how it comes out. thanks dudes. o another question, is it the same procedure with the rapid fixer and hypo clear, add 11oz of rapid and 11oz of water and then 11oz of hypo and 11oz of water @ right temp according to their charts and then discard ?</p>

[john_shriver]

<p>No. The fixer you mix at the specified strength (from liquid or powder) for film use in the stock bottle. You don't dilute it any further, and you put it back in the bottle when you're done with it.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Follow package directions for the fix and clearing agent. Rapid fix is 1:4 for film and 1:9 for paper if memory serve me correct. Residual silver will be in the fixer and needs to be filtered out before reuse, many use coffee filters and a funnel for this purpose. Do not use food prep equipment for food after having used it in photographic chemicals, mark it Photo Only.</p>

[paulo_arellano]

<p>success, it came out great, thanks guys!</p>

[James G. Dainis]

Charles, are you saying that once the fixer is mixed you dilute it 1:4 and 1:9 with water before use? I have always used the stock solution full strength and returned what I used it to the bottle until exhausted. Are you also saying you can filter out the silver? I should think the fixer/silver solution would be a chemical compound and can't be separated using physical means like that.

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Dilute rapid fixer concentrate per instructions on the bottle to make working strength; powdered fixer when mixed is at working strength.</p>

[thirteenthumbs]

<p>Silver will settle to the bottom of the container that fixer is stored in and redeposit itself onto the film when the fixer is reused. Pouring the used fixer through a filter removes most of the silver but not all of it. Handling the bottle of used fixer carefully so that the sediment at the bottom is not disturbed helps a little also. The redeposited silver will show up as small dots of various shapes on the scanned negative or printed image.</p>