First film SLR

[huang_shao_hui]

<p>Levon:<br>

The EOS-30 (Elan 7) has a much better low light AF capability than the EOS-50E (Elan II) that I also own. When I 1st got my EOS30, I was quite surprise to find how responsive the AF is as compare to the 50E. The 50E fires the AF assist at a much higher EV level (can't remember what EV, but I guess it's somewhere arond 7-8), so there's always a delay even though eventually the AF nails it. The Elan 7 fires the 'disco light' only at around EV 3 or 5, and honestly, I think the few EV difference for the 2 bodies triggering their respective AF assist mechanism do make a difference. For my shooting, I find the EOS30 a lot more 'responsive' in AF maybe because I do quite a bit of low light photography, but not really 'no light' photography :) Btw, if I'm not wrong, both camera AF sensors are rated to work down to EV0.<br>

p/s: It's surprising to find a few of you who has some nice thing to say for the 'crappy 35-80'</p>

[markonestudios]

I can personally vouch for the 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 - it is definitely worth having especially on film. Good range, quiet, fast focus, light weight. A very versatile lens indeed, and at a reasonable price too. that was my very first lens. The 50 f/1.8 came a couple of ears after that. I've had both ever since...

[ty_mickan]

<p>Levon, it's a great camera, go for it. don't concern yourself with af, you don't need it for portraits.</p>

[yakim_peled1]

<blockquote>

<p>don't concern yourself with af, you don't need it for portraits.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I respectfully disagree.

<p></p>

<p dir="ltr"> </p>

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<p dir="ltr">Happy shooting,</p>

<p dir="ltr">Yakim.</p>

</p>

 

[Dave Luttmann]

<blockquote>

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=425968">Yakim Peled</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Subscriber" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub9.gif" alt="" /><img title="Frequent poster" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/1roll.gif" alt="" /></a>, Jun 01, 2010; 07:59 a.m.</p>

</blockquote>

 

<blockquote>

<p>don't concern yourself with af, you don't need it for portraits.<br>

I respectfully disagree.</p>

<p dir="ltr"> </p>

<p dir="ltr">Happy shooting,</p>

<p dir="ltr">Yakim.</p>

<p dir="ltr"> </p>

</blockquote>

<p dir="ltr">You may disagree, but as many of us use manual focus for portraiture....and have for years....that's proof simple that it is not NEEDED.</p>

 

[jesse_barba]

<p>I would get the 50mm 1.8 no matter what. I find a fast lens to be a must when shooting film as you cannot just jack up the ISO when things get dim.<br>

I would also consider an AE-1 Program with a 50mm lens. Very cheap, very fun camera to walk around with.</p>

[model mayhem gallery]

<p><a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', 'Levon', 0, 5, 0, 0, 'Levon');" name="sg_0" href="javascript:void(0);">Levon</a> I did the exact same thing I purchased a film camera for photography class I got the Canon Elan <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', '7NE', 102, 3, 1, 0, '-55NE');" name="sg_1" href="javascript:void(0);">7NE</a> and 50 1.8 and do not regret it. If you look at the <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', '7E', 158, 2, 2, 0, '-55E');" name="sg_2" href="javascript:void(0);">7E</a> above I am almost certain the white circle next to the shutter button is the <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', 'autofocus', 238, 9, 3, 0, 'autofocus');" name="sg_3" href="javascript:void(0);">autofocus</a> assist light even for that camera. You can always turn <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', 'AF', 304, 2, 4, 0, 'AF');" name="sg_4" href="javascript:void(0);">AF</a> Assist off in the menus forcing the flash to not fire. Also, like everyone else is saying with a 50 1.8 you won't need <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', 'autofocus', 427, 9, 5, 0, 'autofocus');" name="sg_5" href="javascript:void(0);">autofocus</a> assist in low light because that lens is so fast. More than likely your teacher will recommend you focus manually as most do with a 1.8 or faster lens anyway. Basically, I am suggestion you go with the Canon Elan <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', '7N', 652, 2, 6, 0, '-55N');" name="sg_6" href="javascript:void(0);">7N</a> or <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', '7NE', 658, 3, 7, 0, '-55NE');" name="sg_7" href="javascript:void(0);">7NE</a> and the 50 1.8. This is a perfect camera setup to learn with and will take some incredible shots. Shoot everything manual both camera and focusing, this is the best way to learn photography. If you where to add a zoom lens I would recommend investing in a Canon 17-40 <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', 'F4L', 933, 3, 8, 0, 'F-52L');" name="sg_8" href="javascript:void(0);">F4L</a> this lens is the cheapest <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', 'L', 963, 1, 9, 0, 'L');" name="sg_9" href="javascript:void(0);">L</a> and will last you forever. As a low price option I would get the <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', 'Tamron', 1031, 6, 10, 0, 'Tamron');" name="sg_10" href="javascript:void(0);">Tamron</a> 28-75 F2.8 <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', 'DI', 1049, 2, 11, 0, 'DI');" name="sg_11" href="javascript:void(0);">DI</a>. Once you learn you probably won't stay with a film camera long However, after shooting with a film camera you may lean towards a Full Frame Digital Camera where your <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', 'EFS', 1220, 3, 12, 0, 'EFS');" name="sg_12" href="javascript:void(0);">EFS</a> lenses will no longer work. I shoot with a Canon <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', '5D', 1274, 2, 13, 0, '-53D');" name="sg_13" href="javascript:void(0);">5D</a> Mark II and My Canon <a onclick="submit_bot('suggest', '7NE', 1298, 3, 14, 0, '-55NE');" name="sg_14" href="javascript:void(0);">7NE</a> is my backup camera. </p>

[awahlster]

<p>You best find out what kind of camera is required for your choice of film based photography. Many require a manual focus manually controlled exposure camera. So that you will actually learn the basic's of photography instead of the camera doing the work for you.</p>

 

[mauro_franic]

<p>As others said the 7N or 7NE are the best featured SLRs for the money. They have also an intuitive and relatively new design. I like them better than the older 7 and 7e but any of the four models will do fantastically.</p>

[mauro_franic]

<p>Use a 50mm 1.4 lens on it as staple.</p>

[larry h.]

<p>I sort of did the same thing recently--I signed my daughter and myself up for a B&W film photography course at the local art center. I agree with the people above who said find out from the instructor if you need a manual focus camera or merely use the camera you choose on manual focus. I will be using a Minolta SRT102 when it comes back from service.</p>

<p>However, in the mean time, I decided to buy an Elan IIe from KEH for $45 in excellent condition (including an owner's manual). I looked at the 7e and the 7ne and ruled them out because of things like the af assist and the fact that they do not work well with adapted manual focus lenses. I also thought the 7's were too expensive relative to the IIe. So, I recommend the Elan IIe.</p>

[bob_king2]

<p>If you want good IQ then maybe looking for a decent lens first would be a better idea (you can always use it on your DSLR). A poor lens on a good body will likely disappoint more than a good lens on a lesser body. Many have suggested the EF 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 which would be a good starting point.</p>

<p>I have a number of EOS film bodies - I have been given some and have bought some including a 3, a couple of 7NE's (30V) and more recently a 300X (the only EOS film camera that together with the Elan 7N series that does ETTL-II). They all have the same sensor. I have an EOS 500N (Rebel G) which takes fine photos when coupled with good lenses. No, its not as quick to use as the EOS 3 but is a good starting point. The 500N was my first EOS film body and it still works fine.</p>

<p>My advice? Get a good lens, such as those suggested, and then look for a suitable body that fits within your total budget. Try to get a body that does ETTL flash (rather than just TTL). See the photonotes.org site for info on the various EOS bodies. Not that long ago I picked up a good working 500N (Rebel G) body for $15 on that auction site. Less than a large pizza. Whatever you do, don't buy a crap lens.</p>

<p>Cheers, Bob</p>

[yakim_peled1]

<blockquote>

<p dir="ltr">You may disagree, but as many of us use manual focus for portraiture....and have for years....that's proof simple that it is not NEEDED.</p>

</blockquote>

<p dir="ltr">My portraits are not staged or planned. Thus, the subject is almost always moving, either a little or a lot. In these cases I find AF invaluable. If your portraits are in similar conditions and you still manage to do them in MF mode and manage nearly 100% hits in the right spot than I admire you.

<p>

<p></p>

<p dir="ltr"> </p>

</p>

 

 

<br>

 

<p dir="ltr">Happy shooting,</p>

<p dir="ltr">Yakim.</p>

</p>

[jim_krupnik]

<p>I wouldn't discount the usefulness of AF. Granted, I often shoot portraits with lenses and cameras that do not offer AF, and when I have the option to do so, I tend to set up my cameras for back button AF, so I can carefully choose my focus point with AF, and then shoot either from camera position, or with a remote, and trip the shutter without any delay, and without disturbing my focus point.</p>

<p>I like using AF to lock focus exactly where I want it, but I know people who either do not use AF cameras that offer back button AF control, or never messed with it, and they do most all of their studio portraits with the lens in MF mode so minor changes in composition do not disturb focus from shot to shot. To each their own, and that's the great thing about having choices.</p>

<p>What I wanted to mention here is that as soon as you mount a Canon strobe on an Elan 7, it disables the AF assist light-show function of the built in camera flash, and uses the much more powerful, low key red light unit built into the Speedlite. When I mentioned that I never use the built in flash on my (D)SLR's, I didn't mean to suggest that I don't use flash. I use plenty of flash, I just don't care for built in flash units, and I'm a fervent advocate of lens hoods, which means an instant shadow with a pop up flash (unless you hold the camera upside down).</p>

<p>So, as others have pointed out, the Elan 7 series does focus in pretty dim light, but if you need serious range for quick AF from that point down to total darkness, use a strobe. Even if you don't want the strobe to fire, on some models, you can shut off the flash tube from the menu on the strobe itself.</p>

<p>Here is the kit with a 580EXII mounted, and the blurry second pic is the screen on the back of the strobe indicating that it is in ETTL mode on the Elan 7e, and auto-senses the lens focal length to set the zoom head on the strobe (just in case there was a question about when ETTL was supported in the series).</p>

<p><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/4664426662_d4c669b48b.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /><br>

<img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4015/4663805377_1ef1143fdb.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>

<p> </p>

[thomasly]

<p>Hey Levon,<br />I also "as many others here" recommend the Elan 7n or E<br />with the 50mm f/1.8.<br />I owned the 24-85mm, I thought is was a little to soft for me (my opinion.)<br />Good Luck to you!</p>