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<p>I'd try to get a good deal on a used Coolscan 8000 assuming I want to make reasonable sized prints (10x enlargement). Any modern computer would be overkill so I'd get a basic desktop ($500 or so) with as much ram as it can hold. For software I'd consider Vuescan, Photoshop Lightroom, Elements and only buy Photoshop if you know you'll need it. For printer try a refurb Epson 3800 as its ink costs are lower than the smaller Epsons.</p>
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<p>As you think about the computer side of things, also think about a UPS to keep the power for it and the scanner clean, and about multiple, removeable external storage devices so that you have non-vulnerable ways to back up that mountain of data in more than one physical place.<br /><br />And: don't forget a calibration device for the display you purhase. If you're going to be printing yourself, think about maybe a Colormunki, or something similar, that can calibrate both the display you purchase, and the print output.<br /></p>
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<p>Does the $5K include software?</p>

<p>For computer, I'd fnd your local PC builder and go with<br>

i7 920 $280<br>

74 gig 10,000rpm Western Digital Velociraptor for C Drive $160<br>

2TB Western Digital Black for D Drive $280<br>

Make sure you get the motherboards with new 6bg/s sata and USB 3. $300<br>

12 gigs of ram :) $225<br>

Dvd burner $30<br>

Blu ray burner $125<br>

W7 64-bit OEM $175</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>scanner_ epson v700 or v750, or you rent a Imacon virtual drum scan.</p>

<p>computer_ Imac 27inch 4gig ram 2tera HD</p>

<p>printer_ epson 2880</p>

<p>other_ wacom bamboo pen and touch 6x8, come with Photoshop Element, buy Lightroom 2.6 and you are good to go.</p>

<p>BUT as someone else suggest, keep some $ for a spider3 pro or Eyeone LT to calibrate your monitor correctly.</p>

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<p>Andrew;<br>

<br /> Scanning takes typically very little computer horsepower.<br>

<br /> Here in doing scanning for the public; I just use my old Photoshop machines from 5 to 10 years ago.<br>

<br /> A dumb Walmart brand new computer has 2 gigs of ram and only costs 298 bucks with win7; it already has a CD/DVD burner included.<br>

<br /> You are not going to get 800 megs worth of real info from a 6x9cm scan. A dumb 6x7cm scan at a practical 3200 dpi setting is only 190 megs; and that is fluffy for a dumb flatbed. Our Pentium III's with 768 megs of ram are loafing during a flatbed scan and a 6x7cm scan usually just scanned at 2400 dpi; ie about 108 megs. Even our Pentium II 333Hz box is loafing during a scan.<br>

<br /> You can get a copy of Photoshop element for less than 100 bucks.<br>

<br /> ***It really is not a hardware cost; it is the ball and chain labor; farting around scanning 30,000 images.<br>

scanning 30,000 images is not a quick project; it is more like writing 30,000 personal postcards or letters. For 35mm a buck loader will save you time.<br>

*** IT IS REALLY about the TIME loss in scanning 30,000 images. in high end scans one can spend 1 night per roll' thus think say 4 to 5 years!</p>

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<p>Whatever you buy, time is important. I don't think you need to scan everything. Get a lightbox, group your film and pick the promising ones. Are you working to store all this film like a job, or are you looking to print some great pics to enjoy viewing and sharing them?...</p>
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<blockquote>

<p>Problem with the basic desktop is dealing with files that are 800MB and up output by the 8000. Also, my issue with the 3800 (and 3880) for that matter is a tend to print 8x12 and 12x12. Roll printing would be beneficial. Thoughts?</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Scanning itself requires little in the way of computer hardware. Will you keep all your LS-8000 files at full resolution during the entire editing process? If you're using Lightroom (vs Photoshop with resource-intensive added layers) I think you'll be impressed by how quickly it handles even large files. I regularly put through 400mb files with a 5 year old Pentium 4 laptop and it works well. That's why I said about any modern multi-core computer with enough ram should do fine.</p>

<p>Why do you want roll printing? Flattening rolled paper is a pain. You can downgrade from the 3800/3880 to get roll printing but at the expense of much more costly inks. I use a R1800 (which takes rolls that I don't use) and for 8x12 simply print onto 11x14 or 11x17 inch paper and then trim from there with a rotary cutter. If I had to do it again I'd get a 3800.</p>

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Nikon cooolscan 9000, Epson V750, Epson 3880, Iomega 500GB external hardrive, 3GB byte upgrade for computer, or new computer with at least 4GB RAM, 160GB ROM, Photshop CS4, Photoshop Elements, RAW reading software, Lightroom, Internet access, Online course in Digital Photography.
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<p>This is a little off topic, but be sure to allow yourself plenty of time to learn how to scan. Unfortunately, you can't just buy some equipment, turn it on, and produce good scans. There's a pretty steep learning curve and it takes lots of practice and study to do it well.</p>

<p>What you <em>don't</em> want to do is charge right into it because by the time you scan your 1,000th image you'll realize you've improved so much that the first 500 scans are so crummy you'll have to do them over.</p>

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<p>I have a SuperCoolscan LS-8000 ED with both 35mm and 120 film holders, a Canon Pixma Pro-9000 Mark II, PS CS-4 along with a 250 GB external hard drive in addition to a full color traditional darkroom. I do a lot of professional work and cannot think of a better setup. All for a good bit under $5k (exclusive of the traditional darkroom which is well in excess of that). If I need enlargements greater than 13 x 19, I farm them out to Adorama.</p>
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<p>I would start with a good light table such as a Just Normlicht. I would get top quality loupes, one for 35mm and one for 6x7. I would get some archival sleeves and some 3-ring binders.</p>

<p>You have to narrow your focus. 1500 rolls would take a very long time to scan.</p>

<p>Now what is your purpose for scanning these rolls? Are you making prints? Are they for a web page? With this information you can decide what you need for scanning and what you need for output.</p>

<p>Then you can get specific as to your wants and needs. Otherwise we will just tell you what we either have or want for our needs.</p>

 

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<p><em>If I had that many images I would send them to Scancafe.</em><br>

<em></em><br>

Have you used ScanCafe? How is the quality? Awhile back I sent some 35mm slides to Larsen Digital and Old Photo for scanning, and the quality was so bad that I figured I'd have to learn how to do it myself. I haven't gotten around to it yet, so if a professional outfit could produce good results, I would happily send them off. </p>

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<p>FWIW I regret not getting Photoshop earlier. For me Photoshop is the center of the digital dark room. I tried to get by on RAW converter/ workflow software (such as Lightroom, Aperture, Capture NX etc) and just about survived for a year with all the plug-ins and bells and whistles, but ultimately needed the current industry standard (Photoshop CS4). There is so much you can do with it that is impossible in the RAW converters. I wish I'd got it sooner and learned the principles sooner - there is a bit of a learning curve but is is immensely rewarding when you finally 'get it.' <br>

Basically - if you are into processing lots and lots of images, get a workflow/ RAW conversion program like Lightroom/ Aperture. If you are into crafting individual images you will fall in love with Photoshop CS4. Incidentally, the latter comes bundled with a very capable RAW converter (Adobe Camera RAW) and workflow tool (Adobe Bridge).<br>

It is expensive (too expensive in my opinion), but once you have invested, the upgrades aren't quite so painful.<br>

Get it. Learn it. And you won't look back.</p>

 

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<p>Andrew; the *HUGE* advantage you have is you know the importance of your images compared to me as a scanner of shoe boxes full of stuff!</p>

<p> (1) Thus that crummy underexposed Instamatic 126 negative that I see as crud might be the only shot of your high school love; a sweet cheerleader girl ; a hot AMC Pacer you went out on your first date with her.</p>

<p>Thus with these gems; you can spend time where it matters.</p>

<p>(2) There might be some other 6x6cm negative in the shoe box that is sharp as a tack; and I think it might be drum scanned; and you have not clue who the person is; maybe it is just a dumb test negative that has zero worth to you.</p>

 

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<p>Dave, I've not used Scancafe personally. I searched the Photonet database and saw positive feedback. I owned a top of the line Nikon Scanner, but it consumed so much time I got rid of it. I will be sending a package off to scancafe soon. Not too many, but enough to see if I want to send the rest.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the responses everyone. Just as an FYI, I have done a fair amount of scanning and processing before, but I'm working with software compatibility issues between my Mac and Nikon scanners, and getting my LS-8000 fixed. Bottom line, I've order parts to build my own computer. I've elected for a set up very similar to what was suggested earlier, but decided to get a lot of RAM. I'm also leaning towards an Epson 3880. I found a refurb LaCie monitor and already have calibration equipment for the monitor, so I'm in good shape there. Now, I just need to get my scanner fixed and start scanning :) Off to Nikon it goes....</p>
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