Help... what to look for in a Mamiya 6 before purchasing?

[asimrazakhan]

<p>This weekend I will be meeting someone in Toronto that is selling a Mamiya 6 (not the 6MF) with a 50mm f/4. They have described the camera as flawless and not used very much. The seller seems honest. I have three questions:</p>

<p>1. What specifically should I look for to make sure that I'm getting a good body and lens? I will have a few minutes with the camera to make my decision. Unfortunately, I won't have time to shoot a roll and process it to see the results.</p>

<p>2. If the camera really is in excellent condition... how much should I be paying for the body and lens combined? </p>

<p>3. As a side question... if eventually I find that the camera develops some problems due to my own over-use, are there Mamiya 6 specialists that you would recommend?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

[clark_yerrington]

<p>i got a mamiya 7 used last year. it had a couple issues when i got it and i sent it to the factory <a href="http://www.mamiya.com/customer-service-service-repair.html">service center </a>to get fixed. they were great to deal with and it has been working perfectly since then.<br>

no idea about price. i probably paid too much for mine.<br>

just treat the moving parts [winder, selector knob, dark slide, etc.] gingerly and with finesse and you will be fine.</p>

[g_k7]

<p>A few things I can think of:<br>

Ask him/her to bring along chromes (or negs if that's all they have) that were shot recently with the camera/lens. You'll know by the framing that it's a Mamiya RF and not another 6x6 SLR (i.e. no film holder cuts, it will bear horizontal film travel, etc.)<br>

Check for frame spacing, excessively blown exposures if the subject matter doesn't seem challenging from a lighting or contrast perspective. See if there are surface scratches or imperfections on the negs from bad transport or scratchy rollers or pressure plate. See the edges in case there seem to be some leaks that aren't easily explained away by "loose paper" upon removing the finished film spool.<br>

Check the pressure plate for excessive wear or snags, with your finger.<br>

See if the plastic disk that covers the rangefinder is intact and unmolested. If not, ask "why?" It could be perfect still, but why was it accessed?<br>

Verify that the meter responds to varying conditions; bring a light meter you trust, in case.<br>

See that the winding mechanism moves fairly smoothly and the lens cocking mechanism works; test the camera by placing it in bulb, opening the back and keeping the dark slide undeployed and the lensmount fully extended. Fire the shutter and hold it open, this will allow you to look inside the lens elements with a flashlight, as the shutter otherwise blocks the view through a lens. Check the diaphragm blades from both sides.<br>

Investigate the battery compartment for corrosion, and though it sounds funny, point the camera at something slightly bright to ensure that the LEDs in the VF are robust enough for you to still see them - some LEDs are weak enough that you can't see them during a key day, the exterior light will overpower the LED's brightness.<br>

Ensure that the framing lines follow the lens, when fully mounted. You won't see a change when the 50 G lens is mounted, but if you have a 75 G or 150, the framelines must adapt or something's wrong.<br>

Check the insides of the extending fabric bellows for tears, and when the mount is fully extended, test for mount movement, especially by focussing at infinity, looking through the rangefinder window at something far away, and if there's any play in the rangefinder patch display or the physical mount or lens mount itself, then it will likely need servicing.<br>

For a relatively simple camera, a lot can go wrong with the Mamiya 6. But when it all works out, the thing is very portable, quiet and has absolutely fantastic optics. A light table, loupe and dev'd Velvia 50 will bear this out.<br>

If you buy it, enjoy it!<br>

<br /></p>

[arthur_gottschalk]

<p>Make sure that the collapsible lens mount moves freely. Virtually anything on the Mamiya 6 can be fixed, EXCEPT for a broken winding mechanism. This is a relatively common problem but parts to repair it no longer exist and the camera becomes useless. Be sure to run a roll of film through the camera to see if it works smoothly. The Mamiya USA facility in Elmsford, NY, is the best place to have the camera repaired, cleaned and adjusted. </p>

[asimrazakhan]

<p>thanks everyone! GK... thank you so much for the detailed answer. I actually noted everything down in anticipation of seeing the camera... but in the last minute the seller decided not to sell. </p>

<p>its okay with me... i think i'm more decided on a mamiya 7ii anyway. i think its the safer direction to go since its going to be newer and more easily repaired if need be. </p>

<p>thanks again</p>