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I wish I kept my K1000 and not gotten the ME Super.


shaloot

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<p>Yes, I think I was a little too hasty in getting rid of my K1000 immediately after I got my ME Super a few months back. I had always heard how wonderful the ME Super is and so when a great copy came along, I took a chance on it. There was nothing wrong with my K1000, and honestly sitting here now I can't remember why I even wanted the ME Super... I must have had a case of gear obsessiveness...</p>

<p>A couple of things bug me about the ME Super. First it's the led exposure meter. The blinking dots are frustrating to me cause I can't tell how much over or under exposed my shot will be. E.g., the green dot is lit on shutter speed 1/60, indicating I have correct exposure. But then if I go one below or above, the "under" or "over" light will start blinking... so will the shot be completely over/under exposed? This is where I really miss the needle exposure meter of the K1000, cause I was able to see how far above or below it would move from the middle, so I was able to say "yes, just a little bit more exposure please". I guess I should use the expo compensation dial more frequently on the ME Super, but still...</p>

<p>Second, the fact that it takes 2 batteries really annoy me. That's one extra battery I have to buy. I like that the K1000 was just one battery, which also happened to be very common in the stores. i could buy a pack a 3 for about the same price as now for the pack of 2 for the ME Super. The 2 extra batteries I would keep in my bag, but now with the ME Super I don't. Yes I know it's trivial but for it bugs me. Along the battery lines, I didn't realize that you can't operate the ME Super if the battery dies! Oh wait, yes you can, by putting it on the 1/125 mode. Not very flexible. The K1000 of course being all mechanical can run if the battery dies, and you can get exposure readings either by your digi camera or external light meter. This was the case last year when the K1000 battery died while on vacation, so I just took digital shots on my k10d, and then used the settings on the k1000. The shots came out decent, and any kind of shot is better than no shot!</p>

<p>But I do love the viewfinder of the ME Super. Wow! It's sooo bright and huge that just looking through it makes me smile! I also really like the film loading guide spool; where you can insert the film anywhere along it, unlike the K1000 where I had to line it up with one of the openings. Loading film (for me) is much easier on the ME Super, I took forever with the K1000 and did ruin one roll by not loading it properly. I also really like the size, and it is a slick looking camera. But by and large, I wish I at least kept the K1000. I just got tempted by the $75 the store offered me and I hate looking or thinking of buying another K1000, esp. since my camera was in such good condition! Lesson learned!</p>

<p>Anyways, I just finished another roll of film with the ME Super, and hopefully I'll get it developed soon and share the photos with you guys. Also, is there a model that has Aperture priority mode like the ME Super but with a needle exposure meter? And takes 1 battery?! And can run without a battery?! :)</p>

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<p>Pentax shifted to electronic LED-readout meters before the program bodies, for instance the MX. At least the MX has five LEDs, so you can tell how many half-stops you are off. The MX is a very sweet camera.<br>

But no question that the really basic ergonomics of the K1000 are great. Just the finder on the MX and programs are so big and bright!</p>

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<p>I started with needle metering in a Vivitar screw-mount body for 6 years, which was ok.</p>

<p>But when I got my ME Super back in 1982, I fell in love with it. For one thing, I loved having aperture priority AE as an option. I actually miss the LED metering layout of the ME Super because for me it DOES show about how many stops I am over or under in shutter speed terms. It shows the full range of shutter speeds. This is showing more range than most meter indicators. If 1/125 is right on according to the meter, the other shutter speed steps are shown right there in 1 stop steps. Adjustment of shutter speed is only in full stop steps. Mid aperture settings are usually in 1/2 stop steps on the lens ring.</p>

<p>I now have a Super Program which shows just the current shutter speed in a little window, and a +/- number in a second window, indicating how many stops you are off but in full stop steps. You may like that camera better. Its VF is not quite as phenomenal, but still excellent. It also offers full program operation with "A" or AF lenses, a DOF preview, and TTL flash operation. It does seem to have an oddity about metering with an empty camera set on "0" as to the film winder. Seems to need to wind out a couple of cranks to meter!! </p>

<p>I love the small size of these cameras, and usually have my old Pentax "M" 40mm pancake lens mounted.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>I know the ME Super uses two batteries...or one if you get the tall one (I forget the number) but I have the batteries last for years, so I can't imagine this being a big deal. I went from a K1000 to ME Super in the mid 80's (Shot pictures for the High School paper and yearbookand the ME Super was a x-mas gift.) I have a couple of ZX-M'x as backups. I loved the light weight and small size compared to the K1000. I rarely use film anymore, but will always love my ME Super.</p>
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<p>I am liking the ME Super here and there, but it's really the fact that I was dumb and got rid of the K1000. Should have totally kept the K1000... such a dumb move on my part. I haven't given up on the ME Super, I just find it a little more... I dunno, I just got to get over the fact the K1000 is gone and I got to move on!<br>

(I keep looking on craigslist to see if anyone is getting rid of good K1000 for like $20!)</p>

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<p>i used the MX and ME Super and then the 5n for over 30yrs. when i usee any pof the 3 i had no problem takimng the pics. the led metering display wsas just something you got used to. as for the batteries they last for yrs in any of the 3 slrs i mentioned, not like a dslr at all with batteries. i ha ve used a k1000 and did not find it beter or worse just different. the needle in the k1000 only shows if thre exposure is deadon. while the leds in thre ms mesuper and 5n give you a range around the center of exposure point. and that is quite an improvement when you learn to use it.</p>
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<p>I find the LED readout of the MX easy to adjust precisely since the LED's light at half stops. Virtually as compact as an ME/ME Super, but indedent of batteries like the K1000. As Zane points out, though, there are plenty of used K1000's available if you want to get another one. For traveling with minimum gear I attach the 40mm pancake lens to my MX and it will fit in a jacket pocket. Other side pocket get the Pentax SMC 135mm f3.5 and the inner pocket get the SMC 28mm f2.8 and I'm set.</p>
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<p>I never bit into the K1000, was too barebones to me... coming from the Spotmatic, the KX and the K2 seemed better<br>

the M-series was nice but the MESuper with its “buttons”to change speed never really attracted me….

<p >Fast forward to 2007, I got a free ME Super and after 10 minutes of fiddling I fell in love. Great viewfinder and great LED metering system, no complains from me. Plus the batteries are cheap, I buy 10 packs for 1,50 Euro. So having a spare in the case is never a big deal, plus if batteries run out there is always 100 and eye-meter ;)</p>

</p>

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<p>When I wanted an all-mechanical Pentax body, I got an MX. Smaller than the K1000, has a better finder, has DOF preview. And, surprisingly, no more expensive. It doesn't have the cult status that the K1000 does, so demand for it seems lower. I've never felt inconvenienced by the LED metering.</p>
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<p>I will be getting my prints back today from the ME Super, so I'll see how this round went. I should learn the actual values of stops cause that's interesting what's being said about the LED metering... and I think I should dust off the Spotmatic I have had sitting around since last year. Now to find a battery for that... !</p>
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<p>The K1000 is something of a 'cult' camera,a Spotmatic with a Pentax K mount that was recommended for many years by photography teachers as a good starter camera. If I remember correctly there are 3 different versions out there, the original fully metal 'Made in Japan' version and SE being the most desireable. If you don't plan to get lots of bodies I have to recommend the original 35mm Pentax KX the K1000's big brother and for me the ultimate Spotmatic. It has everything the K1000 has plus mirror lock up and a depth of field preview button. It does use 2 batteries but its match needle metering is superior to the K1000's. In many ways if you already have a Spotmatic you may not even need a K1000.Dust it off, I use mines to get that vintage look with black and white film exclusively.</p>
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<p>Amir, that's a good idea, but checking on eBay for the KX was depressing... I can't find a KX in good shape for the same price that I can find the K1000. And the budget doesn't allow for much "vintage" shooting... Some people know what they have with the KX, MX, etc... and are willing to charge for it. More power to them!</p>
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<p>Sorry to hear that J.C., but my response was really for Somanna. Yes generally KX's go for more then K1000's and so they should,after all they are the top of the line mechanical model in the K series, but I have seen them go for less, sometimes you have to be patient. Yes with models like the KX,MX,LX people know what they have, but the sale price is determined by the demand. At any given moment there will be more people looking for a K1000 then a KX. The K1000 was cheaper,more popular and manufactured for decades.ebay is a strange thing, I paid more for my chrome KX with a 55mm SMC 1.8 lens then I did for my black KX with a 1.4 50mm SMC and yet the black model is in better condition. Prices go up and down.The KX was only manaufactured for a very short time period and so harder to find and when you do find one it normally comes with a better standard lens which is more often then not,desireable in itself.The KM normaly goes for less then the K1000 though it is a higher spec model, because few people even know they exist. It's always good to do your own research and get what you really want or like and if you subsequently decide you don't like it, sell it on to someone who does.I'm sure they will appreciate it.<br>

We all have limited budgets but I find home developing black and white film literally costs me pennies.I've calculated for an initial outlay that was the same as having 4 black and white films developed by a lab, I can develop 100 films at home! and now I have the changing bag and Patersons daylight developing tank all I have to buy in the future are the chemicals, so it will cost even less. I haven't even tried developing film in coffee and washing soda yet . . .</p>

 

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<p>I know these may not be for everyone but the P3n can be found cheap and offers pretty good ergonomics with an LED scheme where the current speed stays steady and the recommended speed blinks, so you can readily see how many stops you're under/over-exposed. I think the black ones are pretty good-looking as well. They offer depth-of-field preview, full program AE with KA lenses and have ML (AE-L). Cons: a little bit plastic-ey in comparison to the older bodies that had more metal but it feels good enough to me. Viewfinder isn't quite as bright as a ME, there's no aperture indicator in the viewfinder like KX/MX/LX. There's no exposure comp (though P5 has this) and you can't override the DX-encoded film speed. Having ML (AE-L) available helps make up for lack of exposure comp though.</p>
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