The best nikon system for $2500

[doctorbabaguy]

<p>To really fit your budget and your needs, I suggest d300s (~$1699 new from B&H), nikkor 28mm f/2 AIS manual focus (~$450 on ebay), AFS Micro-Nikkor 60 mm f/2.8 ED G N (~$500 new). The 28mm will give you an effective 42mm "normal" lens equivalent with a pleasant bokeh, and the 60mm will give you crisp 90mm equivalent portrait/macro lens which will be equally good for long shots of landscapes.</p>

[carl_becker2]

<p>I think you should go to a camera store and pickup a D300 then a D90. There is a size and weight difference. Either of these bodies perform very well. I use older AIS lenses so a D300 fits that need. Otherwise a D90 paired to a 16-85mm Nikkor with a used Gitzo tripod and good ballhead should give you a lot to work with. Include a CPL filter. BandH photo or Adorama are good stores.<br>

For a computer I use a cheap PC with good monitor. The PC gets replaced. I use Nikon NX2 or Bibble to process RAW files. What little I print is done at Penn Camera through the mail. No printer paper or ink to purchase.</p>

[sy_stepanov1]

<p>Nikon D90 ($899)<br>

Sigma 18-50 2.8 ($425)<br>

Sigma 70-200 2.8 ($799)<br>

Nikon Sb-600 ($219)<br>

Cactus Wireless trigger and receivers ($40)<br>

Adorama Tripod and head ($130)<br>

$2512</p>

[robert_delaurentis1]

<p>When it comes to a Mac portable for photography, I'd avoid a MacBook in favor of a MacBook Pro. The MacBooks are a bit underpowered when it comes to pushing pixels around, and their screens still aren't as good as those on the iMac. The 24" iMac running Aperture is a delight. </p>

[gerund]

<p>A very versatile lens that does all you describe can be found in a Tamron AF 18-270mm f/3.5-6.3 Di II VC LD Aspherical IF Macro Zoom Lens with Built in Motor for about $600. See reviews on Amazon for a consensus about this lens. I use an older Tamron 28-300mm and keep it on my camera about 90% of the time.<br>

Mount that on a D90 along with an SB800 and you still have a good $6-700 to play with for<br /> assy. Speaking of which, one assy I would not be without for outdoor shooting in strong sun is a hood loupe. Expensive little gadget but is the only thing I have found to eliminate glare on your LCD without bulking up your camera with a hood attachment. This one hangs on a lanyard around<br /> your neck and magnifies to get at the detail.</p>

<p> </p>

[cole_paquette]

<p>watch local classified ads, as well as online ads.<br>

someone in my county has an F2 film setup with a full lens set. they only want $200 for it. sure it's film and you want digital, but there are some good deals out there.</p>

[ty_mickan]

<p>If you want the best system for a given budget, then invest in the lenses and get whatever camera you can afford after that. the D40 will give you similar image quality to the d3 at normal iso. going by your interests, you would be shooting at base iso for most of your work, and autofocus would not be required. ai-s lenses can be had cheap and i think the d90 can meter with them.</p>

[johncrosley]

<p>I won't tell you what lens to buy.</p>

<p>I will say, skip the D90 and buy the D300. You can get a refurbished D300 for about $1,100 with a full Nikon USA warranty (plus tax if you happen to be in the retailer's state). You may have to shop around to buy a D300 for that price as a refurb, but I bought my last three for that price (or less), and wouldn't pay more, and probably now wouldn't go above $1,000 for a D300 refurb. With a refurb, you either (1) need to view and handle the body in person yourself or with a person who is familiar with the body's mechanism and settings or (2) make sure of the retailer's return policies.</p>

<p>There is an 'art' to buying refurb cameras and lenses, because a few (a select few) have been camera salesmen's (person's) samples (especially lenses) are optically perfect, however can be horribly beaten up. So long as they function perfectly and are perfect optically they get shipped out sometimes with the brand new lenses that have been returned to Nikon (sometimes for no other reason than a 'made-up reason' when wifey (or husband) said' what? you spent THAT MUCH on a lens for your camera?????' and so the customer makes up an excuse and 'returns' the lens claiming a 'defect'. That causes it to get inspected and 'remanufactured' -- even though it is 'brand new' in every instance except the 'sales history.'</p>

<p>It generally is impossible or next to impossible to tell the usual refurbished product from a new Nikon product, except for the box and the enclosed warranty.</p>

<p>As the product goes out of production, refurb prices should go down, down, down for camera bodies, and any store that just knocks off maybe $200 for selling you a refurb should be passed by, because they are making a very large profit . . . . there is (so far as I can tell) very large room for them to move down.</p>

<p>A refurb D700 should now run next week $1900, if you absolutely have to have one; I have been knowledgeably told. In two weeks, I will answer e-mailed questions about buying refurbs (when I am out of the country and not so busy and have made all my current purchases (I don't want you competing with me from my source for the limited number of refurb items available).</p>

<p>Refurbs are usually catch-as-catch-can; one very large Nikon long-term dealer's store manager told me their store never had been offered refurbs by Nikon; they appear to be available only to a select few stores (and some stores apparently buy them from other stores and still sell them cheaply enough to turn a profit. </p>

<p>Me, personally, whenever I can, I shoot with refurbs, after personally testing and shooting with them, even if only briefly. I only saw and handled one refurb lens that didn't work properly, and the dealer promptly sent it back to Nikon.</p>

<p>Nikon USA has a 90-day parts and labor warranty, so if you buy a refurb body, it may be wise to buy a second party warranty, which often can be had for about $100 for more than a year, and with a good company. For lenses, new Nikon lenses have a one-year warranty and a 4-year 'extended service contract' which is just like a warranty, but apparently is easier on Nikon's accountants and 'books'. It's really a warranty in disguise (for a Nikon USA product.)</p>

<p>The problem with refurbs is they are hard to find; and some dealers offer them for only a few percentage points off the comparable NEW items; even though they pay dramatically less for refurbs. By law, any lens or body that has been returned with a claimed defect cannot be sold as 'new', and if it goes back to the factory (or to factory service) it will come out in a box marked somewhere 'refurb' (and not so pretty usually), and a paper or cardboard warranty, possibly hand written, but Nikon USA has absolutely no problem honoring these warranties (for their limited duration.)</p>

<p>(Beware of one thing, however, some problems (issues) with mechanical/electric merchandise is 'intermittent' and even Nikon factory/service may not be able to reproduce (and thus miss) a problem that caused an item to be returned, especially if it was not the 'MAIN' problem, and thus was not noted for total replacement or total service of that particular part, so the 'issue/problem' might return and Nikon would not have fault, but you must find the issue within the 90-day period (or the period of any extended warranty you might have purchased from a third party.)</p>

<p>My experience with refurb products (and even warranty service on them) has been excellent).</p>

<p>I will answer e-mails from anyone interested, but only after two weeks, as I am planning and making a very long trip, starting today (packing for leaving tomorrow).</p>

<p>If you pay $1,100 for a D300 refurb (without the video on the D300s) you have an excellent, world class camera and weather sealed, unlike the D90, whose users have complained to me about lack of seals. It is the camera I shoot with and have for two years. I could shoot with it for the rest of my life and be content, though I think a full size sensor camera (or two) is/are in my near future (a refurb of course).</p>

<p>With such a good body at a very low price, you have a great deal of room for buying lenses. For $1,400, you can buy a substantial number of lenses, especially if you are able to go the refurb route and have a trustworthy dealer (who won't foist off on you the very very occasional brassed out returned salesman's lens etc., as salesmen I am told take 'horrible' care of their things (I may be wrong, but that's what I am told). </p>

<p>Of course the Nikkor 50 mm f 1.8 is a gimme. It is so cheap (at $110 not $120, that it should not be passed by). </p>

<p>The advice above about the 35-70 f 2.8 lens also was not bad, if you don't mind its design, though it is not very 'wide' for the reduced size APS-C sensor of all but the highest-priced Nikon Digital SLRs (but it will work very well if you upgrade to a full size (FX) sensor camera such as the D700 or D3, and successors. (think ahead!).</p>

<p>(In fact, I think I will add one to the list of lenses I am looking for, as I did have one formerly, now gone).</p>

<p>John (Crosley)</p>

[johncrosley]

<p>Oh, and about warranties.</p>

<p>If buying on the C's List source or the auction site, remember this:</p>

<p>When buying Nikon or Canon products or almost any product with a manufacturer's warranty, the warranty is not transferable. </p>

<p>It may be that the seller tells you that the warranty card is in the box and it is 'not filled out'.</p>

<p>That not only is inviting you to cheat by claiming falsely that you bought or otherwise acquired the item 'new' yourself, but it may trip you up if you do make that false claim.</p>

<p>You see, Nikon USA also has an on-line product warranty registration site, so the product may be registered (and the warranty already run out) even though the warranty card has never been written on or submitted. </p>

<p>Embarrassingly your camera/lens may be registered to your seller (or the person who you were unaware sold it to him/her) electronically, and Nikon repair will know this, but when you submit your item for repair you will not, and you will not be able to answer questions about prior registration. </p>

<p>Beware!</p>

<p>These warranties are NEVER transferable, unless for some very unusual reason Nikon/Canon/etc., should make an exception to usual rules. </p>

<p>On the other hand, 'third party warranties' or sometimes better called 'service contracts' (to escape laws regulating 'insurance', including setting aside money for future claims), often have a feature that allows coverage to be transferred to a new owner of the product. </p>

<p>You must look at the actual contract and carefully read its language, THEN call the company to ensure that the 'contract' has not been cancelled or otherwise invalidated 'for the particular item you are purchasing,' whether and how much a 'transfer fee' may be involved (avoid any that charge a transfer fee of more than a few dollars for one, and make sure that the company has a good history, or its service may turn out to be nonexistent after you've sent your camera/lens to them.</p>

<p>Sometimes dealers offer these things to buyers of refurb cameras and lenses. Make sure the company doing the warranty service is financially sound before purchasing . . . . otherwise 'hands off', even if you know their affiliated repair person (their contract with that person may terminate the minute they get into financial trouble, and you could lose your 'service contract money and have to pay for repairs yourself, even with the same person you thought was going to repair your camera/lens under the 'contract' for no additional charge.</p>

<p>One 'service contract' I saw also 'covered' accidental damage 'including damage by dropping'. If it will pay claims, it may be very valuable, especially for a very expensive camera,such as a D3. </p>

<p>Many dealers that sell 'refurbs' also sell 'service contracts' - some at reasonable prices. Still, buyer beware. </p>

<p>They don't make money if you use their service very much, so turnaround times may be very, very slow. Also, the best reference is that the contract is affiliated for a long time with a repair shop you know, trust and would use -- which also can vouch for the warranty company and its financial integrity.</p>

<p>Also, service contracts for retailers are HUGELY profitable items; the idea is to sell you 'service contracts' then to make it not worth your while to use them - such as building in very long wait times or turnaround times, poor telephone service, bad tracking, etc., so you are discouraged from making claims. (they have borrowed a page from the insurance company play book - insurance companies make huge amounts of money by discouraging claims or making it difficult to process claims)<br>

Still, try to do independent research on financial stability of the 'service contract firm' -- dealers may not want to be heard 'dissing' the company they do work for (or they may be the last to hear of financial difficulties or even be reluctant to tell you if their pay is late in coming or if the company is disputing good claims, etc., for fear of getting dumped from the 'approved' list of repairers. No one wants to lose their rice bowl.<br>

Nikon service minimum for a $250 lens may total nearly the value of the lens, so a service contract for a small percentage of the purchase price may be a very good deal; if the lens is damaged from defect and not under warranty (a refurb for instance) it may be replaced rather than having to be 'thrown away'. And, as noted above, at least one company also covers in addition, accidental damage, such as damage from dropping (which can be very valuable.)<br>

Warranties are covered under special law in California (and possibly under your state too, but maybe not as well).<br>

I hope this helps. (It is not legal advice; I have not practiced law in 20 years.) <br>

John (Crosley)</p>

[rick_helmke1]

A couple of other things have occured to me...I always say that the 17-55 and 80-200, both 2.8, cover 90 percent of everything I do and that's accurate. You might consider 3rd party 17-50 and 80-200 2.8's like Sigma, Tamron or Tokina. Good stuff for much less money. Also, while I mentioned the D300 you could look at the D200 also. I have been very happy with mine. There's a lot to be said for carrying 2 or 3 lenses instead of 5 or 6. You could also budget in a second smaller body like a D40. Just a thought. Let us know what you decide, I'd be interested in knowing. Rick H.

[expfc_wintergreen]

<p>2 D90's<br>

Nikkor 60 mm Micro 2.8, also good for portraits.<br>

Nikkor 20 mm 2.8<br>

You have the full-frame equivalent of 30 mm and 90mm and don't have to swap lenses, so lessen dust issues.</p>

 

[expfc_wintergreen]

<p>Or<br>

Adorama has a Nikon refurbished D700 for $2170.<br>

Then go to KEH and get the Nikkor 35mm f/2 and Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 used in Excellent condition.<br>

I think digital is headed for full-frame as the standard, and there are a world of good wide angle Nikkor lenses available for full frame at reasonable prices.</p>

<p> </p>

[nancy_klich]

<p>Thanks for all the great ideas. What I thought would was a relatively straighforward question that would have an equally straightforward answer has generated so much information for me to consider that I hardly need to worry what I will do until I retire. I especially appreciate responses that sent me to other places for additional information and reviews of equipment.<br>

I still don't know what I will do, but have a range of options that I know will produce a great set up for me. I am torn between the D300 and D 90 and have made initial lists of must-have and like-to-have lenses. I know the used/refurbished route is the most difficult, but I think it may be worth my time and effort since I can get the maximum bang for my meager bucks.<br>

I will report back my final decision. In the meantime, I continue to read and consult the advise given to others. <br>

Have a great holiday.</p>