Switching from hot-shoe flash to studio flash - help?

[michael_s10]

<p>Hi - </p>

<p>For the past several months, I've been shooting with one or two SB600 flashes either through umbrellas or softboxes, mostly outdoors - low power, wider apertures, etc.</p>

<p>I did get a chance to shoot in a studio with profoto lighting - it was nice to be able to shoot more or less as fast as I wanted. </p>

<p>So, I'd like to add some studio lighting to my kit, and I have some questions (I did read the article on choosing studio lighting, but still have some questions).<br>

1. I have Chimera softboxes - can I - and more importantly - should I - use these soft boxes with whatever monolights I get? I'm concerned on a few fronts - are the soft boxes compatible, will they cause overheating (or what do I need to get so that they don't cause overheating), and am I really limiting the creative looks I can achieve by sticking with soft boxes?</p>

<p>2. How much power should I get ? I'd like to start to try some more creative lighting - my understanding is that I need to get more power for that.</p>

<p>3. I typically buy "middle of the pack" equipment - not the cheapest, and not the top of the line. Any suggestions good brands?</p>

<p>Thanks (in advance)<br>

Michael</p>

 

[howard_m]

<p>the softboxes adapt to the light via a speedring so you just purchase the required speedring (for Profoto or whatever you choose)</p>

<p>Profoto is considered very top of the line (also $$$$) so if you're more of a middle of the road kind of guy, perhaps Elinchrom, Hensel, Bowens, white lightning, speedotron etc etc are brands to look at. decide if you want to go monolight or head&pack style.</p>

[hjoseph7]

"How much power should I get ? I'd like to start to try some more creative lighting - my understanding is that I need to get more power for that."

=============================================

 

 

It depends on the size of your studio, but creative lighting includes allot of gels and other light modifiers. These tend to swallow allot of lighting. You can go either way either you buy some moderately priced units at 400WS or so, then keep adding similar units like it if you need more power. Or you can buy some powerful units 600WS or more right off the bat and turn down the power. I found that for home units very powerful units are overkill.

[bob_bill]

<p>Michael,<br>

I agree with Harry on the other modifiers. Softboxes and umbrellas are both tools for soft, wrapping light, the former more controlled than the latter. Can pull out the diffuser panels of some sbs for less diffusion or move back to harden, but dont overlook grids and snoots including making them( I like cinefoil snoots, it doesnt burn) Shooting with modeling lights on produces considerable heat. With the restricting modifiers, you can place light exactly where you want it instead of carpet bombing the room. Some on hair, a cheek, the side, an item or area in the room. Cinefoil can be used to block light as well. It's nice having the horsepower when you need it, eg. out doors. It you are wanting to unleash your creativity, you may want to be able to manipulate all light characteristics, direction, diffusion, intensity and color. I would look for some grids and gells and pick up a roll of cinefoil. A lot of bang for the buck. </p>

[jerry s]

<p>1 - Yes, you can very likely use your existing Chimera boxes, though you'll need to get a speed ring for the specific brand of lighting you choose. If you've been using your existing boxes with speedlights and headshots, I imagine they are quite small. With studio strobes you can use much larger boxes, infinitely expanding your capabilities. I have a combination of small (2'x3'), medium/large (3'x4') and medium octa boxes, and use the appropriate box to create the light I need. Additionally, studio strobes have other light shaping tools available - umbrellas, snoots, grids, and various sized reflectors. Each modifies the light in specific ways. There are also some excellent modifiers available for speedlights.<br>

2 - Your creative choices are more limited by how you SHAPE the light, using modifiers. A good 300-400 watt second kit will probably serve most of your needs. That said, while you can dial down power to reduce the light, you can't add power beyond the capability of the unit. I use 600 watt second lights, which I can dial down within a 7 stop range. My working locations range from 13'x13' to roughly 16'x24' - I've never had a problem with too little light.<br>

3 - Echoing Howard's recommendations - Elinchrom, Hensel, Bowens, Speedotron and Paul Buff all make excellent equipment, supported by a wide range of available modifiers. Also, don't rule out Profoto - their equipment is top-of-the-line, with several newer products competitively priced. Stay well clear of low cost offerings - they will cost you far more in the long run.</p>

[michael_s10]

<p>Howard, Harry, Bob, & Jerry - <br>

Spot on advice and great sensibilities. The softboxes I have are actually pretty big (2x3, 3x4, and 1x3 strip) and I think decent quality, and have 2 removable panels per box.<br>

With the speed lights, I put them *really* close for many of the shots, and use pretty fast prime lenses. It would be nice to be able to pull them back a little and give everyone a little more room.<br>

This is all perfect timing - just waiting for my wife to ask me what I want for Xmas :)<br>

Mike</p>

<p> </p>

[model mayhem gallery]

<p>When using softboxes you actually want them as close as possible to the subject without being in the frame. This gives the best quality of light comming from a softbox and makes your shadows much softer. Fast primes are hard to use wide open in a studio as you will tend to haev too much light. This is why I use both Alien Bee AB800 and White Lighting x1600. The WL X1600 have a 1/4 power switch which allows me to really drop the power down very low if I need to. Even shooting at F2.8 is hard with my AB800's unless I gel them with neutral density filters. But I really enjoy Paul Buff products I use just about everything they make. I am most happy with their new Cyber Commander wireless system which I think is the only system which allow you to wirelessly trigger and set the power of your strobes up to 400' away.</p>

[szrimaging]

<p>As far as power goes, I used to shoot with a Norman 800ws pack split 1:1 between 2 heads. Then I had to run it down to half power (so 400ws) just to get my f-stop low enough for my lenses on my D200. That would be using the native ISO of 200 on the camera. So if you are shooting digital and ISO of 200, I would say that running 400ws is adequate.</p>

[model mayhem gallery]

<p>i have been researching this power thing as I like having plenty of power. However, it seems with the medium format film days very small apertures of f16 - f22 were common. However, with todays digital camera's I can shoot at ISO 800 F8 all day with my 5D Mark II and barely even need strobes. If I do its more for looks and doesn't require much power.</p>

[debra_freeman]

<p>Have you heard of the Westcott Spiderlite TD5's and TD3's? They are daylight balanced flourescent beautiful, soft lighting. I do not work for Westcott or anyone I am associated with. I just love the advantage of constant, cool, soft lighting. I have only used my Canon speedlites until now.</p>