Camera Settings For Childrens Netball Games

[sallydouglas]

<p>Hi Everyone...<br>

I just purchased a Nikon D300s, an 16-85 AFS VR lens and a 70-300 AFS VR lens... I have been asked to be my daughters netball club "official photographer" for the season, and desperately need some advice, as I really have absolutely no idea what I am doing!!!... Everyone assumes that because I have a nice looking camera, I actually know how to use it!!!... I need to take action shots of the kids playing netball... I will be standing on the side line of the courts...<br>

What camera setting should I use to get the sharpest images I can, and freeze the motion really well?... What settings should I use for focus tracking?... What settings for exposure?... Most of the time it is a clear sunny day where I live, and the netball courts are either black bitumen, or a green tennis court like surface...<br>

I dont have time to experiment as the season starts this weekend and I really don't wont to look like a dill!!!!... Any help would be greatly appreciated... Thanks in advance... Sally...</p>

[SteveH]

<p>Think of this as wildlife photography of fast moving creatures. Here's some basic suggestions. Use aperture priority at about 1/2 to 1 f-stop closed from wide open. Then adjust your ISO to get at least 1/250th second shutter speed - faster is better. Use the continuous focus method on your Nikon (on my Canon it's called AI Servo). Put your drive on a continuous shooting mode (several frames per sec). One other thing that's helpful if it's available on your camera is to find the function setting that will switch the focus button to one you can reach with your thumb on the back; in the servo setting it will continuously focus on moving objects as long as your finger's on the button. All the pros I know have this arrangement. Between now and the weekend, get your kids to run around the yard so you can practice panning and focusing. There will be a high loss rate, so shoot lots of pictures in bursts of 3 or 4 to increase your chances of a good shot in focus. Have fun. </p>

[dan_south]

<p>Sally,</p>

<p>I'm going to assume that these games are INDOORS, so my comments reflect this assumption. If outdoors, I would change some things.</p>

<p>There's a dial on the top of the camera that has the letters P, S, A, and M on it. For now, set it to P.</p>

<p>Set Quality to RAW+JPEG (Large).</p>

<p>In the shooting menu set the optimization mode to Standard.</p>

<p>Make sure that the M, S, C switch on the front of the camera is set to S or C, not M. S is probably the safest setting, but C will track moving objects.</p>

<p>To the right of the viewfinder is a button marked AE-L/AF-L. Around that button is a rotary switch that points to three icons to its left. Choose the center icon (Matrix Metering). The upper icon (Center-Weighted) is also a good choice.</p>

<p>To the right of the large LCD screen on the back is a large, circular controller. Below that is a rotary selector switch that can point to three or four icons to the left. Select the icon that has a white rectangle in it. This tells your autofocus system to focus on the object that's closest to you. You can change this later as you learn to use the camera, but this is a good setting to start out with. (Note: Select the BOTTOM icon later when you want to control the focus point selection manually.)</p>

<p>Set your ISO to 1600 for low-light shooting. If Auto-ISO is on, don't let it go over a value of 1600.</p>

<p>Set High ISO NR (noise reduction) to ON and choose a medium value.</p>

<p>At the match venue set the White Balance to Auto. Take a few pictures. Then set White Balance to Incandescent. Take a few more pictures. Which ones look better in the viewfinder. The better choice is probably LESS yellow. Whichever one looks better, set your white balance to that setting and leave it there for the duration of the match unless light source mix changes during the game (e.g less sun and more aritificial light).</p>

<p>Do yourself a favor and leave through the book and try some settings even if you think you don't have much time. You'll be glad you did!</p>

[William Michael]

<p>Gidday Sally!<br />Crikey! You stuck with that Nikon . . . I'd have thought you would have traded it in by now . . . <br />Anyway . . . I know that the girls play netball outside, and you did mention “bitumen” . . .<br /><br />So, as you mentioned you can get courtside, and I will assume you can move around – then I suggest you use the 16 to 85 . . . <em>and move around.</em><br /><br />First off have a go at Aperture Priority and select F/5.6 or F/6.3 (because that lens is a VARYING max aperture zoom and the max aperture at the long end is F/5.6).<br>

<br />Try ISO400 or ISO800 – and note the Tv (Shutter Speed) you are getting. If the girls are <12years than you will need about 1/320s as the slowest Tv – even for Goal Shooting or pivoting.<br>

If the girls are higher grades – then you will need about 1/640s as the slowest.<br>

I mention the slowest Tv for overcast days, early mornings in shadow etc – but if you can get around 1/1000s for most shots that’s good.<br>

I don’t know that camera inside out, but I would use Centre Point AF only and I am sure there is a selection for tracking motion – use that (I say this in total ignorance of the using that camera).<br>

Get the main action / main subject in the centre of the frame as that is where the AF will be focusing – also AF usually likes "contrast" to follow, so nail the girls bibs and the lettering for your focus point.<br>

Have a little wider FL and crop the image a bit later, if necessary. You will be surprised how close you can crop later.<br>

Have a big memory card, but try to select the shots rather than shooting willy-nilly.<br>

My guess most games (if the kids are younger) will be in the morning . . . so select the end with the best light onto your team as they are attacking and be at the side for that light and toward the end they are running to . . . you want the expression of your girls’ faces . . .<br>

That’s all I can think of for the moment. Where, specifically do they play?<br>

WW</p>

<p>PS - yes you can experiment it is only Wednesday - get up early tomorrow and have a go in your front yard you only need a "pivoting kid" at about 20ft just to confirm ISO800 and F/6.3, is a good starting point for a Tv of around 1/1000s, for example.</p>

[William Michael]

<p>AH . . . I meant to explain something else: <br>

<br>

“P” (Program mode) is a good suggestion for a one size fits all. I am not debating that. I suggest a novice use P mode often <em >for use at functions (like a Wedding) </em> <br>

<br>

I suggested using Av Priority <strong ><em >and noting the shutter speed: </em></strong> because I do not know with a D300s <em >the parameters of the shutter speed the P mode will select for you.</em><br>

<br>

“P” mode will prioritize a shutter speed to arrest camera shake, but not necessarily to arrest vigorous subject movement: so usually it is not the most suitable “all fits one choice” for Sports Shooting.<br>

<br>

WW</p>

[dbcooper]

<blockquote>

<p>"...as I really have absolutely no idea what I am doing!!!... Everyone assumes that because I have a nice looking camera, I actually know how to use it!!!"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I'm guessing you left out the part where, knowing all this, you said 'yes' anyway. My level best advice: go back and beg off the 'assignment' until a later date, when you've gained a little confidence with your camera. Any embarrassment from that would be better than the embarrassment you'll likely get from delivering really bad photos vs other parents' expectations. You won't need years...just a couple of weeks to get comfortable with your new camera, if you apply yourself.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"What camera setting should I use to get the sharpest images I can, and freeze the motion really well?... What settings should I use for focus tracking?... What settings for exposure?... Most of the time it is a clear sunny day where I live, and the netball courts are either black bitumen, or a green tennis court like surface.."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>My level best advice: read the camera's manual, and try each bit as you read it. It costs nothing to delete mistakes, which you will make, and that's perfectly fine...it's expected, and quite normal. The manual will answer most, if not all, of your questions (precisely why they supply one with each new camera). Then practice for a couple of weeks at games.</p>

<p>It's really that easy for outdoor daylight shooting, actually. Use automatic features where possible for now...the 'how-to' is in the camera's manual. To freeze action, you'll want shutter priority (S) mode with as fast a shutter speed as will give the correct exposure...it's mostly automatic (again, see the camera's manual). Focus tracking: see the camera's manual for the explanation and 'how-to' for using automatic focusing when shooting moving subjects. Once it's set up for what you're shooting, the camera will focus and set exposure automatically when you press the shutter button. Read, try, practice, enjoy, in that order, and you'll be just fine.</p>

<p>The bad news: there's no way out of the fact that taking good photos takes time and effort on your part, not just spending on gear. I think you're finding that out. It's a process, not an event.<br /> The good news: taking good photos is easier than it's ever been with the features of modern digital cameras. You've chosen a nice camera. All you have to do now is learn to 'drive' it.</p>

<p>By the way, welcome to photo.net. Keep coming back and asking questions, especially about your mistakes (your successes will usually take care of themselves). If you're willing to try, we're willing to help.</p>

[William Michael]

<p>And another explanation - why I did <strong><em>not</em></strong> suggest using Shutter Priority mode: <br /><br />Because you are using a zoom lens with a varying maximum aperture - if for example you select a Shutter Priority and choose Tv = 1/1000s and that is all fine with your lens wound out at 16mm, taking some wide shots - because it will take the shot at let’s say F/8 . . . <br /><br />And then a cloud comes over and drops the EV (light level) by two stops (so you need F/4 to shoot) . . . and you zoom in for a goal shot . . . you only have F/5.6 as the fastest aperture at 85mm - and I don’t know what your camera will do – some cameras will not allow you to take the shot at all and that can cause panic - I have seen it happen at a Wedding, and to a "Professional" - very, very messy.<br /><strong><em></em></strong><br /><strong><em>Does any NIKON user know what the D300s will do in the scenario I have outlined?</em></strong><br /><br />*** <br /><br />There is another option to consider - I assume that there is an automatic “Sports” or “Action” mode on the D300s, which will select everything as automatic.<br /><br />WW<br /><br />PS - I underscore that my suggestion to use Av Priority is to use F/5.6 or F/6.3 and also <strong><em>note the Tv</em></strong> the camera is selecting.</p>

 

[sallydouglas]

<p>William comes to my rescue again!!!... Thank you kind sir for your advice... I will do EXACTLY as you suggest... And yes, I bit the bullet and purchased the D300s last week... I got a 16GB memory card too, which is a complete relief after using 2 x 256MB cards for 5 years!!!... The funny thing is, when I got the new camera out of the box and took some photo's, the miraculous improvement in my photography I was expecting did not appear!!!.... Ha Ha... So it really is true William, my skills and technique are lacking considerably, and it is not my camera after all!!!... Who would have guessed?...</p>

<p>Thanks Steve for your advice too...</p>

<p>Dan, the games will be outdoor, not indoor, and I would very much appreciate it if you could let me know how this affects your suggestions...</p>

<p>Hi DB... I mispoke earlier, I wasnt really ASKED to be the official photographer, I was kind of "volunteered" without any choice if you get my drift... I have read the camera manual about 5 times already, but was just looking for suggestions outside of this manual to ensure I am going about it the right way... Thanks for your advice and your post...</p>

<p> </p>

[William Michael]

<p>Crikey . . . those user manuals are bloody hopeless . . . there's no heading for "swimming shots” in my Canon manual either . . . <br>

<br>

Yeah . . . well practice all I wrote first - I haven't played with a D300s. . . getting the sun kinda behind you is simpler said than done sometimes - and is important if you have a morning game. You can shoot into the sun too - maybe make that task 2 to learn <br>

<br>

I suggest that you do have the <strong><em>all automatic</em></strong> "Sports mode" or "Action Mode" as your Plan B. <br>

<br>

I was actually serious about asking where the venue(s), was / were – email me if you like – I usually shoot several Sporting fields around Sydney - on Saturdays.<br>

<br>

WW</p>