Nikonos II

[ragc]

<p>Anyone have practical experience in replacing the no-longer available o-rings (body and lens base), for weatherproofness (not diving), and/or for diving? Nowhere have I been able to find the spec for these o-rings, yet they must be replaceable, with the myriads of different sizes made and available...<br>

How about the other technician-only o-rings?</p>

[larrydressler]

<p>Well an o ring can be made to size and spliced... I used to do it all the time in the 70's because standards in Housing construction was shit. Go to any real hardware store and talk to the oldest person there they will point you to the o- ring kits.</p>

[ragc]

<p>I have been eyeing those...! I assume a diagonal cut splice is best. Did you use any attachment for the ends (glue, clamping)? No worry about crafstmanship: I build and modify my own LF cameras...</p>

[jim_momary]

<p>http://www.allorings.com/oring_splicing_kits.htm<br>

Of course you need to measure diameter needed, i.e. groove width in the body. You need to use a caliper, not just a ruler, more precision is called for. O-ring diameter (wall thickness) typically wants to be about 5 - 15% larger than the groove width to guarantee some compression and enough material to provide a tight seal. O ring stock is sized both in English and metric sizes. Buna or epdm or nitrile would work here about the same, with epdm being the best for all weather use.<br>

The kit shown, that is only one example of what's available, provides the rubber cord stock and other goodies. T that red thing is a device that allows for you to cleanly slice the ends with a single edged razor blade. Instant adhesive (crazy glue, Black Max, etc.) is usually supplied to allow to glue the cut ends together. No, the joint is a simple square butt joint, no diagonals but the glue joint is really stronger than the rubber.<br>

It takes some practice to get it right, but it's not that hard. We use this all the time in factory applications where custom size o rings are often found or where, oops, we don't have the right size spare. Look to a seal supplier like Conover who should also stock literally tens of thousands of various o rings. McMaster Carr in NJ also is a great source.<br>

Hope it helps and don't glue your fingers together :o)</p>

<p>Jim</p>

[ragc]

<p>Thanks, Jim! I will definitely use the information you provided here!</p>

[pictureted]

<p>Don't forget to grease the o-ring when you install it.</p>

[ragc]

<p>I already have the silicone grease, and I still have not received the camera! <br>

Found a place where their website claims to still do the yearly service on the Nikonos II. It's called Backscatter, and they have places on both coasts. I e-mailed them to confirm they can change the non-accessible rings (and the accessible ones) and depth-test the camera. If they can then I think I am going ahead and doing it, even if I leter continue to replace the accessible rings myself.</p>

[jim_momary]

<p>After you get your toy and get it working you owe us a photo like the below ...</p>

<p>:o)<br>

Jim</p><div></div>

[ragc]

<p><img src="http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h285/ragc01/_DSC3638sc.jpg" alt="" width="722" height="385" /><br>

This is it, for now! Roll in for "dry run" (LOL!). Then service and "wet run". Silly photo to follow!</p>

[ragc]

<p>As promised: my first underwater photo in color...</p><div></div>