Brad Cloven Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>I just picked up a very clean Rolleiflex Automat ca. 1938, SN 674917 with a Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 3.5 lens, uncoated.<br>The lens is very clean and clear. The shutter works perfectly at every setting (including 1 second). The body is probably an 8 / 10. <br>Bought it for $50, and I'm quite happy with my new toy.<br>Question: Considering the lens is an uncoated Tessar, should I limit myself to B&W? <br>I usually shoot only color, but with this beauty I may need to change my film choice. Your advice on the results I can expect using color (Velvia) in such a camera would be appreciated.<br>Thanks in advance for your advice on how to use my new toy!<br>Brad Cloven</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred_haeseker Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>You got a real bargain! My advice is to try it out with a roll of Velvia and see if you like the results. The uncoated lens will give you a somewhat less saturated look than a coated lens. I've used the now discontinued Kodak UC400 color negative film in old MF cameras with uncoated lenses and was very happy with what came out. Tessar-type lenses work best stopped down to f/8, f/11 or f/16 -- used wide open they're soft in the corners.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabor_szabo3 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>Pretty good price for a pre-war Automat, Brad. I don't see any terrible differences between older uncoated and later coated Tessars; I mean , nothing that a little post-processing can't improve when using color. <br> Naturally, you'd want to use a good hood/lens-shade regardless of color or B&W film. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralf_j. Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>The key word is "Hood". There is a difference between coated and uncoated lenses when using color; the contrast is lower on images taken with uncoated lenses hence they seem less saturated.<br />As gabor said, you can repair that with level control in post - processing which I am not fond off, or you can use a hood.<br />Also note that, the contrast will be low for B&W film as well, so a Yello(Y2) filter may be a good idea anyway.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_the_waste Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>$50.00 for a Rolleiflex Automat??? er... could you show us a picture of this little charm?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicaglow Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>NO! Shoot color. Often the subtle colors produced by these old lenses is very pleasing compared to today's over-the-top color brightness and saturation.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lauren_macintosh Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>Time to move up to the New Ektar 100ISO 120mm film Its great and if you look thru this forum you will a lot of folks have post foto from Ektar Color Neg Film , Myself one of them wioth my new Rolleiflex 1938 model #720456 tessar good luck and have fun:</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank.schifano Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>You can use either. Like Ralf wrote, the main difference between coated and uncoated lenses is contrast, the latter producing lower contrast results because of flare. A lens shade or hood is arguably almost as effective at controlling flare as AR lens coatings, unless of course you are shooting against the light. And remember, this lens is a tessar design with 4 elements in 3 groups. With only four internal glass/air boundaries, flare is not much of a problem anyway.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Cloven Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>ROB: Will post pics of the camera tonight. The lady working in the antique mall didn't want the hassle of FleaBay, especially returns, so was happy to be done with it for $50.<br> FRED: Thanks! Will go shoot Velvia here in Jacksonville, OR this evening, if I can. <br> RALF: I'll shoot away from the sun to avoid flare. I have no lens hood (or camera case, or lens caps, etc.)<br> ALL: Any advice on scanning 120 slides while I'm at it? The folks at Fuji (Parsons, Kansas really) develop nicely, but their scanning of 120 is poor. Does another processor do a good job, or must one buy a flatbed scanner to achieve quality scans? (Sorry, I can probably look this up elsewhere on Photo.net when time permits).</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennis_w3 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>Keep your eyes open on the 'bay for a hood. I have a 1945 model Rolleiflex with the uncoated lens, and was able to pick up a genuine Rollei hood for $5.50 USD. A hood makes a big difference.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roseberry guitars Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>Brad, don't worry too much about flair. I used to shoot a couple Zeiss Ikon Nettars with uncoated lenses and never had a problem. Just create a shadow over the lens if shooting more towards the sun. That's what fedora hats were really invented for...oh, and lookin' cool!</p> <p>I mainly use my Ikoflex IIa and Mess Ikonta 524/16 (coated Tessars) as my MF cameras but I do use my Nettar 515 (4.5 x 6) with uncoated Novar lens once in a while as well. There are a few color shots taken with the 515 in my portfolio if you care to have a look. They are pretty indicative of what color is like with these uncoated lenses. I don't remember the film, maybe some out of date Agfacolor Optima II.</p> <p>The only thing I might mentiuon is shooting reversal film unless you are sure the shutter is accurate. Not much latitude with that film. But go for it, you might be surprised. I'm pretty sure my Ikoflex has never been serviced (not since I've had it, 8 years +/-) and I get good results with Velvia.</p> <p>BTW good choice on your TLR. Post some shots for us.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roseberry guitars Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>My post seems a little unclear...The only thing I might mention is<strong><em>,</em></strong> <em><strong>you might be disappointed when</strong></em> shooting reversal film unless you are sure the shutter is accurate.</p> <p>That makes more sence.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Cloven Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>Here's my new baby!<br> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9981416-md.jpg" alt="" /><br> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9981415-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="848" /><br> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9981413-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="822" /></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Cloven Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>Scot: Took it out with a roll of Velvia tonight. I metered with my Nikon F3HP, and matched the 1 second shutter speed to whatever f-stop was required, mostly f/11. The 1 second time did seem to go by at exactly the right speed...."One-one-thousand". Good to have a self-timer.<br> When I get results back, I'll post the pictures to a new thread.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralf_j. Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 <p>Brad -you need a Bay-1 hood. Seer item 200399325902 on the big auction site.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kerkko_kehravuo Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 <p>What are these strange screws on left side (focusing knob side) of the face of the camera? Never seen before. I have been using all kind of Rolleis, old and new. One of my favorites is still Automat ("MX-EVS"), one day would be nice to have also an uncoated Automat.</p> <p>Kerkko K.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Cloven Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 <p>Kerkko: someone screwed on some aftermarket thing that I don't recognize. I took it off. It may have been some sort of flash synch.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick_van_Nooij Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 <p>Very nice camera Brad, I'm casually looking for a pre-war or early-war Automat myself, to complement my Rolleicord Ia. You're lucky to find one at this price, congratulations. <br> I'm looking forward to see your results with it, no matter if you shoot B/W or colour.</p> <p>Regards,<br> Rick</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon_b1 Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 <p>You might also try running some Provia 100F through it; it's a tiny bit more forgiving than Velvia, in my experience. I use Provia with my triplet-lensed Zeiss folders and it looks great with the older glass. It's also a bit more flattering on skin tones than any of the flavours of Velvia, should you be doing any protrait work...</p> <p>I picked up a Rolleicord last week and have been enjoying every second of using it.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabor_szabo3 Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 <p>Yes, those are old style flash sync terminals.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_liberty Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 <p>I have one of these too. I went out of my way to find one w/ an uncoated Tessar and paid about twice what you paid but still consider that a good deal. I think you get the gist of the issue by now. By all means shoot color film. Today's color films work exceptionally well w/ uncoated lenses. I really prefer the unsaturated color look so I tend to steer away from films like Velvia. For B&W use a film like Tri-X, a yellow filter, and a hood and the results will be wonderful.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golden Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 <p>dang what a deal!, i have one of these also, havnt shot any color with it though, but i really liked the results that lauren had gotten, so shoot color with it, that ektar 100 is an excellent film, not sure how chromes would be. good luck and please post your results</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kl122007 Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 <p>Uncoated lens is a also good for colour photography. But what you need first would be the hood. Flare is common when you use color negatives with old glass. A hood helps you to keep away from unwanted light enterance and reflection.<br> For the negatives, use the one that can enrich or favor in strong colour contrast and richness. If you select some ordinary films, the colour might be weak and you might not like it in some cases.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Cloven Posted November 9, 2009 Author Share Posted November 9, 2009 <p>Got the first roll of Velvia back from the Rolleiflex, and here it is:<br> As an article: <a href="http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00Uy25">http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00Uy25</a><br> As a folder: <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=941291">http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=941291</a><br> Thanks, all, for the advice!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Cloven Posted November 9, 2009 Author Share Posted November 9, 2009 <p>Got the first roll of Velvia back from the Rolleiflex, and here it is:<br> As an article: <a href="http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00Uy25">http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00Uy25</a><br> As a folder: <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=941291">http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=941291</a><br> Thanks, all, for the advice!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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