vincenzo_maielli Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>In order to control the temperature of the water and chemicals, i think to use a summersible temperature controller for the aquariums (16 euros against the comparable summersible Nova Protronic temperature controller, that cost 70 euros). I think to fill a large bucket (12 litres of capacity) and fit, in the bucket, the aquarium temperature controller, by the suckers provided with the same temperature controller tool.<br>What do you think about this solution? Believe you that will work? Thanks in advance.<br>Ciao.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btmuir Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>You will need to find a aquarium heater that wiil go up to 38-40C if you are doing color work.<br> Most dont but you may be able to rig the thermostat to go high enoungh and then it should work.</p> <p>I've read that some have done this successfully. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincenzo_maielli Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>I work only in BW darkroom, not in colour developing and/or printing. The summersible controller for the aquarium that i've seen go from 20°C to 32°C (from 68°F to 89°C).<br> Ciao.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkpix Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>I think it would work. I'm curious why you feel the need for that amount of temperature control for black and white processing. What are you developing?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincenzo_maielli Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>Dear Bob, the indicated range, from 68°F/20°C to 89°F/32°C, is the total range allowed by the tool, for employing in the aquarium. I need to use a range of temperature lies between 68°F/20°C for Ilford FP4 Plus and HP5 Plus developed in Agfa Rodinal or Ornano Gradual ST-20 (a very excellent italian developer) and 75°F/24°C for Kodak T-Max 100 and 400 developed in Kodak T-Max, Kodak X-Tol or Ornano MX. <br> Ciao.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_douglas1 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>Vincenzo,</p> <p>I am developing C-41 at 38 deg. C in a home made water bath made from a plastic dishpan and it works very well. I tried using a 150 watt fish heater but it wasn't enough heat. I am using a 1500 watt 240 volt water heater element and running it on 120 volts, which gives me a 375 watt heater which works perfectly. I am using an old waterbed thermostat to control temperature, and it holds the temp to less than 1/2 deg. C. I am using an evaporative cooler pump to circulate the water around the bottles and tank. Total cash expenditure was $30. Good luck.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkpix Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>Vicenzo,<br /> <br /> Sorry, I didn't make myself clear. I'm just curious why you need to use a temperature-controlled water bath at all for black and white developing.<br /> <br /> I'm sure other photographers have different opinions, but I've managed to go my whole life without using one and still can produce well exposed and developed black-and-white negatives with no trouble, even with slightly fussier films like TMX.<br /> <br /> Bob</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig_shearman1 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>Vincenzo, if you're developing B&W, Bob is correct -- you don't need temperature control. Both Kodak and Ilford provide charts showing developing temperatures from about 65 degrees F to 75 degrees. Unless you're living somewhere without heat or air conditioning, your room temperature developer should be somewhere in that range already. Just check the developer temperature and develop for the time indicated on the charts. Even if you're off a little, most B&W film and developer combinations -- at least the Tri-X and D-76 that I usually use -- are very forgiving of minor errors in time or temperature.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincenzo_maielli Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>Bob and Craig, excuse me, you are right, indeed: now I finally understood your words. I too have been developing all my BW films without any system to control the temperature, in the last 30 years, always without encountering any problems. Now, however, since there is a cheap way to control the temperature more precisely, i want to use this system, just to try something new.<br> Ciao.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_shriver Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 <p>Remember that the aquarium heater will only be useful when the ambient air temperature is under 68F/20C. Usually, just getting a large amount of water at the desired temperature, and putting the chemistry containers in it, will be fully sufficient control for B&W. Certainly for a film like TMAX, you do want to be on temperature and on time to get consistent results.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skip_fendl Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 <p>John is right, temperature is very important with TMAX films. A difference if 1 degree can make a difference in your negatives!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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