tom_rittenhouse1 Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>I was thinking of getting a couple of softboxes for small product photography. After some thought I figure maybe I will get a couple of 24x36 inch boxes, and make baffle covers for them so I can use them as: 24x24 square, 8x36 strip, 22 round, and of course 24x36 rectangular. Giving me a lot of lighting options for a small investment. Am I thinking smart, or am I missing something? I have next to no experience with softboxes. (If it matters, my strobes are a 800w/s pack with 4 heads.)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheldonnalos Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>Should work, would be some power loss due to covering part of the front. You've got plenty of power though. Might be some difficulties with getting the box into a position that works... ie. you've got it masked down small but can't fit it into the ideal position because it's still a full size box.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garry edwards Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>It makes perfect sense, and you can mask the front to any size/shape you want just by fixing blackwrap (or even black bin liners) to the front.<br> But you may want to re-think the size: See <a href="007tNJ">this lighting theme</a> , if you want to create diffused specular highlights you'll need a larger softbox. Even the striplight I use for lighting wine bottles is 6' tall...</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric friedemann Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>For small products, Interfit makes a real nice 24-inch, soft-sided, framed box for about $60:</p> <p><a href="http://www.adorama.com/PALBT24.html">http://www.adorama.com/PALBT24.html</a></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric friedemann Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>EZcube also makes portable tents for under $100 and has some nice little video tutorials:</p> <p><a href="http://store.tabletopstudio-store.com/ezlite.html">http://store.tabletopstudio-store.com/ezlite.html</a></p> <p><a href="http://www.ezcube.com/step-by-step.html">http://www.ezcube.com/step-by-step.html</a></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garry edwards Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>None of those are softboxes. They are product shooting 'solutions' for people who know and care nothing about photography</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric friedemann Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>Gary, did what you just wrote make sense to you? ... Geez, I just realized that you're a moderator- your statement that no one who knows anything about photography or cares about photography would use a tabletop tent to shoot small products is neither true nor, well, moderate. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garry edwards Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>Yes, and I hoped it would make sense to you too.<br> The OP is asking about softboxes, the products you linked to are something entirely different.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric friedemann Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>Tom, if you have other uses for a set of softboxes, then yes, you could certainly buy a set and use them in a three- or four-sided square arrangement. If not, you could save money by getting one of the tents above and lighting around it. </p> <p>If I'm not understanding your situation, I'm sorry; I just though I'd make alternative suggestions. I didn't mean to cause a freak-out about soft boxes.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles_Webster Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>The quality of the light is subtly different between a softbox masked down to a strip, and a stiplight of the same size. I can't really describe it, but I think it has do to with the proximity of the edges to the internal reflective surfaces...</p> <p>I often mask my 24 X 36 softbox down to a 6" X 36 strip to create narrow highlights on objects, but I'm shooting fairly small objects (guitars and the like).</p> <p>As Garry says, a larger softbox might be more useful and provide more options in the long run.</p> <p><Chas></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom_rittenhouse1 Posted October 10, 2009 Author Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>Now, now, boys (GRIN).</p> <p>Actually, I sometimes use a light cube (tent), but am interested in more sophisticated lighting. In days gone by I used Photogenic Baby Spots for this kind of thing (My age is showing, huh?).</p> <p>Generally, I use far harder lighting than most folks nowadays, it seems like "Soft is good", somehow became "Flat is good". Anyway, there are two conflicting, to my mind, bits of advise above. "It would be difficult getting the 2x3 boxes close enough because of their size" and "2x3 boxes are too small" (both paraphrased). Considering that my shooting space is small, and I am talking "small" product table top stuff (a sewing machine on the large end, a ring on the small, for example), would folks like to amplify on those comments?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom_rittenhouse1 Posted October 10, 2009 Author Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>Charles, that is the kind of information I was seeking. About the edges, I mean.</p> <p>Eric, light cubes are great for shots like this one I used on eBay awhile back:<br> <img src="http://webpages.charter.net/graywolf/_Pix/HP-10b-II-Calculator-.jpg" alt="" width="750" height="1000" /></p> <p>It gives good detail, so the buyer could see what he was buying. However, with a couple of softboxes and maybe a spotlight/snoot you can produce something far more dramatic and eye catching like ads you see in the glossy magazines.</p> <p>It is my fault that I did not make it clear what level of lighting I was asking about. The fact I mentioned I was using commercial grade equipment clued in guys like Gerry, but probably meant nothing to less experienced viewers. I will try to be more clear in the future.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric friedemann Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>Tom-</p> <p>You obviously know what you're doing. When you decide on a kit and get it up and running, maybe post a sample or two. </p> <p>Best,</p> <p>-E</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garry edwards Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>Tom,<br> Just about everyone who understands studio lighting uses hard lighting, usually the harder the better, pushing the limits as far as the medium can take them, but of course softboxes have their place too, sometimes producing soft light, sometimes producing fairly hard light and sometimes producing overall low contrast but high local contrast. Horses for courses.<br> When softboxes are needed, it's often to produce diffused specular highlights (as in the link I gave you) and I would say that the minimum usable size is x3 the subject size, and so close to the subject that it's only just out of shot. A sewing machine has quite complex shapes, including convex shapes, and would need a softbox far larger than x3 product size.<br> Finding room for a large softbox, positioned just inches from the subject, is quite straightforward when it's mounted overhead, as it often is - but more difficult when it's in a different position. If you're using a small softbox then it will be extremely difficult sometimes to get it as close as it needs to be, and the answer is often to use a much larger softbox and to have it further away.<br> BTW, I think that Charles may be right about the effect from a masked softbox not being exactly the same.<br> Eric, light tents may have their uses, but let's not argue about that. I just thought that your links were off topic. As a member, I have a choice of saying so or ignoring it. As a moderator, I have a choice of deleting your post or ignoring it. I chose to wear my member hat.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheldonnalos Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>Yes, you can use a larger box and put it farther away to get harder light. It will have a different falloff characteristic though. Even though a small box close and a large box far away may take up the same angle of view and produce similarly hard light, the small box up close will have a much more rapid light falloff.</p> <p>Not saying there's no way to work around the differences, though. I was just picturing wanting to cram a small box in somewhere with close quarters, and being annoyed because I was using a physically big 24x36x18 inch deep box that was masked down to simulate a small box.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric friedemann Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>Garry, I'm sorry I got into it with you. If you want to strip my posts out of this thread to clean it up, you have my blessing.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garry edwards Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>Eric,<br> There really isn't a problem, I just didn't want the post to go off topic. And this has now turned into a good thread, with some very useful content.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom_rittenhouse1 Posted October 10, 2009 Author Share Posted October 10, 2009 <p>OK, to give a better idea of where I am coming from; I originally felt the 2x3 foot box would be too small for overhead lighting, but then realized I had a 8x12 foot white ceiling 5-6 feet above I could bounce off of that ought to do for that. One 2x3 box as back or side lighiing, and the other, masked, as my key light. Then the fourth head with the snoot or reflector as a kicker, with foamcore reflectors for anything additional that may be needed or as flags. Using sewing machines, seems I am collecting them, as an example of a complicated shaped object to light, they are about 15x10x8 inches and about the largest thing I will be shooting, is my thinking sound?</p> <p>My reason for asking for opinions is because I am retired and simply can not afford to try, and then replace something if it does not work out. My preferred way of working, BTW. I am going to be kind of stuck with it. To give another point of reference, I like the look I get using a 16 inch reflector as my main for H&S portraits, where most, from what I see on the web, think that you need at least a 60 inch octabox, and I probably have that light farther back, about 5 feet usually. Of course, I am not shooting beautiful young models either....</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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