Focusing and composing with WLF

[david_waugh3]

<p>Just wondering how people generally focus and compose with a WLF handheld using a WLF.</p>

<p>Assuming the subject isn't moving and there's time, I will generally focus using the magnifier, and then fold it back down to compose normally. I love the WLF - having that extra bit of interaction with the subject rather than being 'stuck in a viewfinder'. My only problem is that I love to shoot at fairly wide apertures and unfortunately I tend move enough after focusing with the magnifier to alter the distance to my subject (despite being careful) and my hit rate suffers. Critical focus isn't crucial to me (and of course I can't expect that handheld), but obviously I don't have a huge DOF using say f5.6 on my 150 at 3 meters.... do most people use a prism in this case, or do they also compose with the magnifier in place?</p>

<p>Do you think with practice, I could master the focussing not using the magnifier? I do have a split screen Acute Matte but I find still find it difficult to focus without it.</p>

<p>I understand the physics - DOF and DO focus etc, but hoping to get a better handle on 'best practice' when using the WLF.</p>

<p>Many thanks,</p>

<p>David</p>

[leicaglow]

<p>As I get a bit older, I am not as fast with the WLF as I used to be. My eyesight isn't what it used to be. For any subject with movement / action, I always use a prism finder. For everything else, I use a chimney finder, unless I need to have the compactness for carrying the camera with the WLF folded up. You should be reasonably accurate with the WLF though.</p>

[thomas_sullivan]

<p>Using a Mamiya TLR with WLF, if i really do have the time, I use the magnifier, pop it down, and compose. pretty successful at 7-12 feet with a 65mm lens wide open (f/4). I almost always use the magnifier if the light is very dim to dark. In bright sunlight or hazy cloud covering...but still bright....I just rack the focus back and forth once or twice till i'm sure it's in focus.....can't explain it, but it kinda snaps in place on the ground glass when it's truelly in focus. But of course, that's after much practice with that method.</p>

<p>I also shoot like that with my 80mm lens.....but with the 135mm i almost always use the magnifier.</p>

<p>All of the "pop the magnifier" down shooting does involve my elbows being jammed into my gut...or sides....so the cam don't move horizontally when i go from mag to compose.</p>

[paul_gardener]

<p>David,</p>

<p>Are you sure it is not the effect of slow shutterspeeds that gives you problems?<br>

Although in theory only one point is exactly focused any WA gives you quite a lot of DOF.<br>

For instance at 5.6 used hyperbolically the 38 mm lens of the SWC gives a range from 2m till infinity.</p>

[ondebanks]

<p>Paul, I had to giggle...by "hyperbolically" I presume you mean "hyperfocally". Damn spell checkers, eh?</p>

<p>I doubt that you mean hurling your SWC through the air, so that it lands somewhere between 2m and infinity away from you (although that would be a parabolic trajectory, not quite hyperbolic).</p>

<p>Although it is apt in another sense - hyperbole is indeed a characterisitic of certain forum members (:0)</p>

[kris]

I still have 20/20 eyesight and can not focus properly without the magnifier; even in bright sunny day. Always have the magnifier up for focusing and composing despite not being able to see clearly the corners.

[david_waugh3]

Thanks for the replies.  I actually spent a little bit of time this evening 'practicing' focusing without the magnifier... I think I

need to trust it more :-)  Certainly where I am focussing closer, then I think I will do as Kris does and just compose using

the magnifier also.  With a large neg, I shouldn't be afraid of cropping some corners if required.  

 

It's confidence also (still very new to this Hasselblad thing). I need to be snappier - less time between focusing and

composing. I also shortened my strap tonight and I think that might help.  Closer view and less movement from when I use

the magnifier.

 

Thanks again everyone.  

[User_503771]

<p>I think that if you're shooting with a 150 on 6x6, you should use a tripod for maximum sharpness. I wonder if some of your "misses" are due to simple camera shake rather than focusing error.</p>

<p>It's either that or use very fast film for very fast shutter speeds.</p>

[tim_bosley1]

<p>I find my WLF suitable for rough framing only. Even with the magnifier and camera on tripod I have to sit on the magnifier to discern the contrast to critical focus. I would use the WLF handheld only in excellent outdoor lighting. Maybe my eyesight, maybe screen.<br />I get more mileage from the chimney finder that blocks stray light.<br />My postulate: I think the WLF becomes easier with the format; thus a 6x8 or 6x7 would be easier to critical focus. After all- have you seen a 6x7 fashion portrait that was out of focus ;-)</p>

[paul_gardener]

<p>Hello Ray,</p>

<p>You are quite right. What is in a name?<br>

It must have been good memories from math classes long ago that caused this mix up.<br>

Thanks for your pleasant reaction to my error.<br>

Have one on me !</p>

[paul_gardener]

<p>David,</p>

<p>Maybe you have already found the recommended way to hold the camera.<br>

This is recommended for right handed users.<br>

It gives you a free right hand to adjust lens settings and to wind the camera.</p><div></div>

[david_smith35]

<p>I always focus and compose with the magnifier up. It allows you to see all the detail, and keeps stray light from hitting the screen. Regarding being able to see into the corners of the screen, I fitted a -1 dioptre eyepiece and found that it reduces the image magnification sufficiently to see right into the corners.</p>

[steve m smith]

<blockquote>

<p>I still have 20/20 eyesight and can not focus properly without the magnifier</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>You can have 20/20 vision but still not be able to focus close up as 20/20 is a measurement of acuity at 20 feet. Conversly, I am quite short sighted and (without glasses) can easily focus on very near objects (like a groundglass screen).<br>

I use a combination of magnifier and hyperfocal.</p>

[stever_max]

<p>1) Move the focus quickly. I learned to do this with the Mamiya C-330 and 35mm SLRs. The eye can focus incredibly quickly and if you focus slowly the eye will compensate and make the focusing harder.<br>

2) When I bought my Hasselblad, the WLF was prompted given a place of honor in the camera bag and has remained there ever since. I use a PME 45º finder.<br>

3) I shoot with the 150mm and the 250mm lenses hand held with shutter speed 1/125 and 1/250 seconds or shorter. Below that a tripod is advised and necessary. [Hint: I use 400 speed film at box speed because the negative grain has become so good.]</p>

<p>Steve</p>

[philip_wilson]

<p>Like Michael I find that I have to use the magnifier these days to get critical focus. My tchnique is to compose firts then flip down the magnifier and tweek the focus.</p>