Gary Fong diffuser system

[stephen_fassman]

Newbie getting a d90/16-85, choosing betw an sb600 or 900. I have access to my fathers fx & dx lens collection. I read about the Gary

Fong diffusers as the magical answer to the perfect portrait and bounce flash shot. Is it all that it's advertised to be? Will I need the more

powerful sb900? Will the diffuser that comes with it work as well for portraits ? Has anyone tried the DIY PLASTIC BAG diffuser URL that

comes up when you google Gary Fong? The system is costly and quite bulky in my fathers opinion. Is it worth it? Thanks.

[christina_santavicca]

<p>Hi Stephen. I don't have an answer for you, but I'm glad you posted this, because I was just about to as well, haha. I was wondering the same exact things about being all it's cracked up to be and if it's too bulky. Thanks for the post. and you have to be careful at what DIY system you set up for your hot shoe. I mean, considering how often you'd be firing it, because they do get hot - coming from experience - and depending on what you rig up - it can catch on fire, lol.</p>

[Mary Doo]

<p>IMO it's a very optional gadget.</p>

[bms]

<blockquote>

<p>I read about the Gary Fong diffusers as the magical answer to the perfect portrait and bounce flash shot. Is it all that it's advertised to be?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It's never all its advertised to be, but I think it works pretty nicely. Go to the wedding forum, you'll find quite a few believers...</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Will I need the more powerful sb900</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Well I think that depends on what and how you shoot - it obviously does cut the reach of the flash - on the other hand, you generally won't have to bounce it, either.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Will the diffuser that comes with it work as well for portraits ?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I would JUST get a simple dome to start. I do not think you need a whole "system"/kit.... you probably have to see for yourself. I think I took this image with the dome (not that I am a big weeding pro or anything, but that's all I could find right now)</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9716488-lg.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="500" /></p>

<blockquote>

<p>The system is costly and quite bulky in my fathers opinion</p>

</blockquote>

<p>it is a bit of bulk, but one dome will cost you $40....</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Has anyone tried the DIY PLASTIC BAG diffuser URL that comes up when you google Gary Fong?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Put a plastic bag over your hear, the image will become very soft very quickly..... :)</p>

[stephen_fassman]

<p>Vertex diffuser: I came across this diffuser during my travels. Has anyone used it? Seems extremely complicated, relies too much on bounced ceiling/wall light, and is simply a selective reflector system (directing harsh light when 1 deflector is aimed at the subject)???<br>

http://www.presslite.com/vertexinfo.php<br>

Which Fong dome model was recc'ed as the one to start with for indoor portraits, the clear or cloudy? SB 900 or 600?</p>

[ramon_v__california_]

<p>the cheapest, simplest stofen on your SB-600 will do wonders even on big, elaborate weddings. gary fong's system, to me, is so huge and so expensive. when people/guests are around you don't want to be using that mini street lamp :-)</p>

[john_deerfield]

<p>Please memorize this:</p>

<p>The larger the light source in <em>relationship</em> to your subject, the softer the light. </p>

<p>Period. End of the lesson. Gary Fong has mad a mint out of that principle, but the same principle can be applied using an ABBC bounce card that you can make on your own for under $5. These flash "diffusers" work by bouncing light off of a ceiling or wall. Therefore, the ceiling or wall becomes your primary or "key" light. Since the ceiling or wall is larger than your subject, you now have a softer light source than if you had pointed your flash straight at your subject. The next thing these diffuser do is throw some light forward. Now the light going forward is <em>hard</em> light (though indirect). Why is it hard? Because it's <em>SMALLER</em> than your subject (or most likely smaller than your subject). But the trick is that this is FILL light going forward so you won't notice any hard shadows because it's less light than your key (the ceiling or wall). All of that said, I have used almost every flash diffuser at one time or another because frankly, I was equipment obsessed (ok, I kinda still am) for a long time. I had the clear Lightsphere, the Cloud, & the one sliver dome thing... what I didn't like about them was the weight and the simple truth that it doesn't bounce enough light forward, the ratio is wrong. To get enough light forward I needed to increase my flash power even more. And it doesn't do any better (or worse) than a simple bounce card. Why do I say that? Imagine a Lightsphere on one flash, and an ABBC on another. I am in the same room with both. Now ask yourself: what is the key light? The key light will be the SAME bounced surface using either the Lightsphere OR the ABBC card. Again, it's the <em>same</em> bounced surface. The only <em>possible</em> difference can be in the fill. And the fill will be a HARD light source no matter what. And for me, there simply is too much wasted light from the Lightsphere, I prefer to have more light bounced forward. Now for the record, in terms of on camera diffusers, I prefer the Demb Flip it because I can use that in different ways (such as flagging my flash so as to prevent light from hitting a surface). And finally, the BEST thing you can practice with using a D90 and a SB600 or 900 is getting either flash OFF THE CAMERA! This will do more to improve your photography than any diffuser. I posted the images in my galley (http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=929341) because the have a very strong direction of light component. For the most part, they were shot with an SB800 OFF camera. In most cases bounced off a wall or ceiling (or both!). The sunset shot is direct flash using only the dome "diffuser" (which simply reduces specular highlights). You can see it's a hard light by looking at the fast fall off on the grooms sleeve: half is lit, the other isn't! Contrast that with the 3 girls getting ready. That flash is being bounce off the wall/ceiling camera left, but that shadows are much softer and the light is wrapping around the brides face (larger light source). Now image any of those images with flash being blasted forward (with or without a "diffuser"). The "moment" is ruined. It's the <em>direction</em> of light that gave me the impact. A D90 can control a SB600 or 900 off camera, it's one of the great things about it! But then you will soon want more flashes for even more creativity!</p>

<p>Good Luck</p>

[richsimmons]

<p>Another option is the Ultimate Lightbox from <a href="http://www.harbordigitaldesign.com/">here</a>. The difference, to me, is that, 1. It's bigger than the Lightsphere. 2. Has more options 3. Less expensive. and you can use it with a bounce card attached so you can bounce off the ceiling but still control the light going forward. It takes colored gels and it really quite versatile. I've had mine for awhile and I like it very much.</p>

[lex_jenkins]

<p>Take a peek at <a href="../photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00TDXD"><strong>this thread</strong> </a> from earlier this year by photo.net member Oleg T, as well as his website with reviews of various hotshoe flash diffusers and modifiers: <a rel="nofollow" href="http://photo-tips-online.com/review/best-flash-diffuser/" target="_blank"><strong>The Best Flash Diffuser</strong> </a> .</p>

<p>For umpteen years I've made my own flash diffusers, bounce doodads and modifiers. They all help and none of 'em is radically different from the results I get with the simple and handy pop-on dome diffuser that came with my SB-800.</p>

<p>Right now, the best bang for the buck in commercially made hotshoe flash modifiers seems to be the Demb units. I'm seriously considering selling my Custom Brackets CB Junior and getting the lighter weight, smaller Demb doodad. And I've been very satisfied with the CB Junior, other than the weight.</p>

[dbcooper]

<p>IMO, it works very well, but it's bulky indeed. I used to use one regularly, and still do now and then. For the last year, I've been using a Demb unit. It packs very small and works great. I also use Lumiquest and Honl gear for speedlight flash.</p>

[elliot1]

<p><em>"sb900... Will the diffuser that comes with it work as well for portraits?" </em> Yes, and it works really well. You really don't need anything else. Save your money.</p>

<p> </p>

[bms]

<blockquote>

<p>Will the diffuser that comes with it work as well for portraits ?</p>

 

</blockquote>

<p>Actually misread..."with it" refers to the SB900 I guess. I have used it with the little pop up bounce card and the diffuser, but usually I bounce the flash, which I guess gets similar results to any other contraption (good post, John). Have not used either the Vertex or the Demb vut they look quite similar in a way.</p>

[lesterphoto]

<p>IMO, the key with the Gary Fong system ( I'm a proud owner of a Lightspere II Cloud ) is that you have to work close to ambient light for it to work properly. It doesn't work at f11 or f16 unless you can match the ISO or shutter speed to the ambient.<br>

re:"The larger the light source in <em>relationship</em> to your subject, the softer the light." Amen, brother.</p>

[greg_peterson3]

<p> [begin Rant]</p>

<p>Point your strobe up. Use a rubber band to attach a 4"X6" card to the back. Bend the top edge of the card slightly forward. You now have a system that's as good as, or better than, anything that Gary Fong sells. </p>

<p>The term "Mini-softbox" used by some of these snake oil peddlers is perhaps the ultimate oxymoron. The thing that makes a soft-box soft is its size, and 24"X24" is considered small.</p>

<p>And without a modeling light, it's all pretty much guess work as to how the light will look. Bouncing the light from directly over the subject's head will result in dark eye sockets. If the walls or ceiling aren't pure white you've just added a color cast to you picture.</p>

<p>I could go on about what a big waste of money these things are, but read "Light Science & Magic" (or some other good book about lighting principals) and find out for yourself.</p>

<p> [End Rant]</p>

[cc_chang2]

<p>I have a D90 and SB600. I find that the combo offers you many creative ways to produce natural looking pictures. Clearly bouncing helps, as always. Furthermore the "BL" ((Balanced filled) capacity on the system is quite sophisticated to allow the flash to blend in better with the background. You may want to try it without buying too many things to complicate matters until you can clearly identify the problem.</p>

[mark liddell]

<p>I'm amazed at how much overpriced flash tupperware there is out there</p>

[john schroeder]

<p>The Gary Fong diffusers are nice products but they will never replace proper technique and creativity. I have gotten just as good, if not better, results using an extra large white plastic cup cut length wise in half. It doesn't look as professional but it works just as well. There is a lot to be said about looking professional. Who would you trust more a brain surgeon in a clean pressed lab coat or one wearing bib overalls and a muddy boots. I would buy the SB600 and then upgrade to the SB900 later if you need it. Listen to your father.</p>

[hughw]

<p>You said it Gregg.I agree with you 100%</p>

[jamie_robertson2]

<p>Yes, you can just about make any style flash diffuser yourself out of sticky back plastic, elastic bands and pipe-cleaners ;-)</p>

<p>In all seriousness, for the price you may as well select the best one for the job and just buy it unless you have unique special requirements. I use the <a href="http://www.jackthehat.co.uk/flash-diffusers-lumiquest-c-4_28.html">Lumiquest</a> range of flash modifiers because they have a tool for every job and they are often compatible with each other. The <a href="http://www.jackthehat.co.uk/lumiquest-promax-system-lq105-free-delivery-p-96.html">Promax</a> is a great all round system for every job and I carry one around in my bag at all times. The Sto-Fens are excellent but you need to be in a room for them to work.</p>

[paul_scharf_]

<p>Since you have the D90, then you have access to the CLS capabilities that are built into your Nikon camera. You can have a sb600/900 remote from the camera and fired by the D90, without cords, assuming that the sensor on your remote flash can "see" your pop-up flash. That is so much nicer than having to to have the flash connected to the camera.<br>

I have bought a Clear Lightsphere but found it useful mostly when you can have the flash somewhat near a white wall or ceiling, since you do lose about 3 or 4 fstops of light when it is attached. I do find it useful in maybe 10% of my shooting. What I found was a lot more useful was using either a 12x16 or 16x20 softbox or 22" umbrella, with the flash mounted to it and then mount the rig on a small but very portable light stand.</p>

[mwlyon]

<p>Just a quick note - they are available on ebay for $38 bought one 2 weeks ago for a smaller wedding party in a dark location - worked great (and sure is more reassuring to clients than a gateraid bottle strapped to my Nikon SB's) - like the results so much I just bought another one for my second shooter to use this Saturday. Agree that they are a little top heavy but not difficult to learn how to use pretty quickly and with pleasing results.<br>

Again at $38 it is better than the Sto-Fen diffuser - don't know that I would want to pay the $135 price.<br>

My .02</p>

<p>Regards</p>

<p>Michael</p>