Jump to content

Vivitar 70-210mm f3.5 Series 1


timwitt

Recommended Posts

<p>I have one of these, research indicates this is the first of four or five versions and/or manufacturers. It takes 67mm filters and has a unique macro focusing mechanism. This one is made by Kiron and looks like a serious chunk of glass. Here is a link to some info on this lens <a href="http://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm">http://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm</a></p>

<p>What can this lens do that an 80-200 f4 L can't do?</p>

<p><a href="http://www.robertstech.com/vivitar.htm"></a></p><div>00UEWo-165859684.jpg.27de0889e27d0de38a1317b4e0851c76.jpg</div>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<blockquote>

<p>What can this lens do that an 80-200 f4 L can't do?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Cost $60. I had the f2.8-4 version. Good optic for the money. Nice for butterflies. Long end not so great. No low dispersion glass but a heavy beast. Mine was best between <a href="mailto:90-180mm@ f/8">90-180mm at f/8</a>. Several step below the L zoom in optical quality. </p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>In a low light situation where you are shooting at the long end you get a higher shutter speed. If you need a zoom lens which offers excellent performance in the close-up/macro range you can look for the Vivitar 90-180mm f/4.5 Series 1. This morning I saw an 80-200/4L on eBay for $300 BIN.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Looks like closest focus distance for the 80-200 L is 3.1 feet in macro and approximately 9.5 inches for the Vivitar. The Vivitar is listed as 3 inches from the front element so I added the length of the lens to get approximately 9.5 inches comparing the Canon's distance which is measured from the film plane.<br>

FYI, the Vivitar is EE coupled to f16 but aperture goes to f22.<br>

That's a lot of difference in minimum focus distance if I'm looking at it correctly. I don't want to be using the 80-200L one day and say, I could have made that shot if only I still had that Vivitar. </p>

<p> I suspect the Vivitar is unnecessary because I have the 80-200L and a 50, 90 and 100mm macro lens although the Vivitar sure looks looks like a serious optic.</p>

<p>I'm looking for experienced reasons to keep the Vivitar, I don't want to collect lenses, I just want to have lenses that I will use.</p>

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Tim, the only three FD zooms I ever use are the 20-35/3.5 L, the 35-105/3.5, and the 80-200/4 L. I've had other zooms, both FD and third party, and have ended up getting rid of most them because of lack of use. The IQ of the 80-200/4 L is, as we all know, the best of any FD-mount zoom in its range. So all you'll be missing without the Vivitar is closer focusing capability. But you've already got three macro lenses for this application anyway.</p>

<p>However, I do agree that the Kiron Vivitar is a "serious chunk of glass," and it's in gorgeous condition.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Vivitar Series 1 optics are worth keeping, Tim. If you like bugs and butterflies, it's very versatile with a creamy bokeh. It's build quality is outstanding and its resolution is perfectly adequate for sharp, colorful 8x10 sized enlargements if good technique is used. A great bang-for-the-buck optic. Always useful on a spare beater body and kept in the car/truck for those odd shots that arise tooling around. Also a quality first zoom when you want to assemble a beginner's FD kit for a friend, family member, or youngster.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Jeff, My 80-200 L was like new but had a broken aperture, I paid $90 as-is. I planned on getting it repaired but when it arrived, the aperture did not work with the macro hood but worked fine on any camera in auto, manual or stopped down (DOF preview).</p>

<p>Mark, The 35-105mm f3.5 is a nice lens with a big following, I really like it and have three. Why three.......one was cheap with an EF at a pawn shop ($50), two were about six seconds apart on auction and I was sure to get one of them, I got both (can't have too many).</p>

<p>Louis, Good idea on building an additional kit for whatever reason. I have been working on that but the long zoom I used is the Canon 70-210 F4. I think I'll shoot the Vivitar some to see what I have. I've never parted with any cameras or lenses anyway except an 85-300 mm f4.5 (about the size of a chunk of firewood). Also in that kit is a 35-105mm f3.5, 28mm f2.8 (wish I had another 24mm f2.8), 50mm f1.4 and a choice of AE-1 or AT-1.<br>

And here's the 2.8-4.0 version, probably like you had, it is made by Cosina. I read the IQ is not as good as the Kiron version but I've never compared. The focus works backward which is odd to me. I've never had anything Nikon but I have heard they focus opposite from Canons. If one of these Vivitars has better IQ than the Canon 70-210mm f4.0 I would put it in the kit instead of the Canon.</p><div>00UEn9-165955584.jpg.5d29a63f16268079ab7979a2d261c95d.jpg</div>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>The best ones were version 2 by Tokina (f3.5 max aperture, 62mm filter size) and Version 3 by Komine (f2.8~4 max aperture, 58mm filter size). The later Cosina versions were softer at the long end.</p>

<p>BTW, the claim in the Roberts Series 1 page about avoiding the AF lenses is not true. I have an AF version of the 70-210 f2.8 to 4.0 zoom, that was apparently made by Cosina, and it's pretty good. A bit soft at 210mm but pretty darn good at 180mm or less, and stopped down one stop. A quite decent midrange zoom lens for the $99 I spent on it brand new in Nikon AF mount. Certainly competitive in IQ with the much slower Nikkor 55-200 Kit lens.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I have all of the first three versions of the 70-210 Series 1 zoom. I've used the Kiron (22xxx) version on a Pentax Digital, and the Tokina and Komine versions on the Canon FD mount. I can't really say which one has better optics, but all seem to be adequate for my needs. The one way that the Komine version stands out is that the barrel of the zoom does not slide when aimed at something other than a horizontal angle. The sliding zoom can be very irritating on the Tokina and Kiron versions. I also own the 80-200L and it is really good in nearly every way. It's sharp at f4 and hardly flares (but I use a hood regardless). I use the 80-200L most of the time, but I wouldn't hesitate to use the Komine version for an every day lens (especially with its macro abilities). </p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>One last bit of info not discussed here or on the Robertstech website is that the first version had two generations. The earliest version did not come with multicoated optics. Tim's lens, manufactured in 1981 (according to the Robertstech website), has the multicoating (VMC). My First Version was made in 1973 and does not have the VMC engraved in the filter ring. I purchased this lens in 1977 and I remember it cost $300. It was the same price as the FD 200 f2.8 which had just debuted. If anyone is thinking about purchasing one, make sure it is the multicoated version.<br />As for performance, I always thought the images were very sharp but they always looked "flat" as compared to photos taken with FD lenses.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...