Need Reccomendation for a Camera Jib

[paulrumohr]

<p>I have been doing a lot of pro table top shoots recently and have been thinking that it would be wonderful if I could get some sort of jib to allow me to do overhead shots directly looking down. My client usualy asks me to take some shots of the products straight in, then maybe from a slightly higher or lower angle, and then the doosey request- hey can you shoot straight down on these?<br>

It would save me time from having to do a set up on the floor and shoot down on it.<br>

Jibs seem to be very expensive because they are used extensively in film, and these units tend to be overbuilt for even beefy 35mm pro DSLR cameras.<br>

I've been thinking about adapting my very nice compact redwing light boom to hold my camera, however, this doesn't lock down into place and can't be remotely operated (ie from the end of the boom near the floor)<br>

Can anyone make a suggestion for a low cost solution (maybe under $1,000) or ideas on how I can get these overhead shots without having to do them on the floor?<br>

Fellow pros please help me out<br>

Paul</p>

[GerrySiegel]

<p>It depends on the size and depth of the products I think. It MAY be possible to get away with a Manfrotto horizontal tripod arm- you attach a suitable camera platform and maybe a right angle finder (they aren' too costly)(heavy camera may need sandbag on the other side to dampen vibration.).. if you experiment and can get to viewing the objects on the table top with a small step stool, you are in business. I use this item to do table top copying with a heavy duty tripod. A little fussy, but it works for non production workflow stuff. You can go 90 degree aerial overhead style but not for really big items of course and you have to be able to get the tripod legs up close to the table. I use a QR clamp and a focus rail too on one end...one idea thrown ojut, cheap enough to try maybe, Paul... I can't say I do this professionally, but it works for me.</p>

<p>http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/554331-REG/Manfrotto_by_Bogen_Imaging_131DB_131D_Lateral_Side_Arm.html</p>

[bobcossar]

<p>Another solution is to use a high quality front surface mirror solidly mounted at 45 degrees to the shot, and just shoot the image in the "normal" way.....regards, Bob</p>

[ben_goren]

<p>Paul,</p>

 

<p>It depends an awful lot on the scale. When I need to do that sort of thing, I turn the center post

in my Manfrotto 3021BPRO tripod into a cross post — it’s designed for that —

and extend it as far as I can without tipping the thing. Setting unequal leg heights helps in how far

it’ll extend. So far it’s worked for me.</p>

 

<p>I also find it’s the easiest way to get the subject and sensor planes parallel. Put a two-way bubble level on the floor, note how much the floor deviates from level (<i>e.g.,</i> if one bubble

is on a line rather than centered between the two), put the same level on the camera’s LCD and adjust the

ballhead to get the same deviation.</p>

 

<p>Depending on if you’re using flash, or if you’ve got the resolution to spare, you

could also put the camera on a monopod (or your folded-up tripod) and hold it out like a flag.

It’s quick, easy, and cheap. And if the results are “good enough,” then why

not?</p>

 

<p>Cheers,</p>

 

<p>b&</p>

[Jeremy Stein]

<p>I would suggest that using Live View with the finder view shown on a laptop would be extremely helpful with such setups. I have used this sort of scheme for jewelry shooting, where I have to move the lights and reflectors around all the time in order to get the specular highlights where I need them. Using Live View and controlling the focus from the laptop is a huge timesaver, since this arrangement causes no added vibrations in the setup as long as you have slack in the cables and set the laptop on a separate table. The software I use for my 40D's is DSLR Remote from Breeze Systems, but you may also be able to do this with the software that comes with the camera.</p>

[clay2]

<p>How about using a focusing rail with crank to extend from centre post?</p>

 

<p>I use a Cullmann rail, crank and gear, 15 1/2 inches both ways. Also swivels and tilts.<br>

<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.rtsphoto.com/html/cullm3.html" target="_blank">http://www.rtsphoto.com/html/cullm3.html</a><br>

Model 3060 extension/macro arm.<br>

Best regards,<br /> <br /> /Clay</p>

 

[joseph_wisniewski]

<p>Are you familiar with "camera stands"?</p>

<p>These are alternatives to tripods for studio use. They're like the missing link between a tripod and a cinematographic boom. They usually have about a 24 inch arm, and that rids a column (typically available in 6, 8, 10, or 12 feet) up to 8 foot high) on a fairly heavy rolling base. There's a pulley and invisible counterweight (it's inside the column) that counters the weight of the arm and the camera, so you can slide up and down easily. A jib or a redwing boom (great for lights, I have two) moves in an arc, changing the camera location when you change height. A camera stand moves in pure vertical motion...</p>

<p>Arkay go for about $1000 new, Manfrotto about $2000. I would seriously look at used ones, I've seen Manfrotto stands going for $500 used lately.</p>

<p> </p>