Details of Fred Picker's Development Time Test??

[david schick]

In Newsletter #24 Fred Picker referes to the "Development Time Test." Does

anyone know where that test might be detailed? Is it in his Zone VI Workshop

book?

 

I am trying the exercise of determing exposure without a meter - that he

outlines in that issue.

 

Thanks,

David

[art_haykin]

How are you going about establishing exposure without a meter, or are you only estimating under various daylight conditions?

[jorge_gasteazoro5]

Sure determine exposure without a light meter and take a pic without a camera!

The development test is an enterely different matter than learning to determine exposure without a meter. In the development test you are looking for the correct EI, in guessing the exposure you start with a known exposure say the sunny 16 rule, then for shadows open 2 stops, for open shadows open 1 stop, for snow....well you get the idea.

So to answer your question, yes the development test is on the book, but I think you are confused about what you really want..

[m0002a]

The film development test goes something like this: First determine the film speed for your camera, film, and meter combination. This is usually a Zone I density of about .1 over film base and fog, or some other means you devise.

 

Take a meter reading (using film speed previously determined) of a gray card (Zone V) and then open up 3 stops. Create an image of the gray card, filling up a good portion of the negative, and with the gray card out of focus while your lens is focused on infinity. This will be your Zone VIII image. Develop the film for your best guess of the correct time and temp combination. Make notes about how you agitate, how you account for pour-in and pour-out time, and whether you use presoak, acid or water stop, etc. Consistency is very important.

 

Print the Zone VIII image for the minimum time to achieve maximum black of the film base. This must be done on YOUR enlarger, with your paper, paper developer, toner (if used) etc. Differences in enlarger light sources can vary the Zone VIII value by one Zone or more. If the Zone VIII print (after it is washed, toned, and dried) matches the value reproduced in a published Zone Chart, your film development time is correct. If it is too light, cut development time and repeat until correct; if too dark increase development, etc.

 

It is really a good idea to create images and prints of all the zones (printed at minimum time to achieve maximum black on the film base). This will verify the film speed (Zone I should be distinguishable from maximum black, Zone V should look like a gray card, etc,).

[pat_krentz]

Check Fred's Newsletter #47, also see if you can find his video, he does not use a gray card, and he always uses a meter for film test, get the Zone VI Workshop book. Pat

[david schick]

Thank you all.

 

After posting the question, I picked up the videos at the library,

and found a copy of the Workshop at powells.com (the greatest

independent bookstore on Earth - in my opinion).

 

I relize I may have been too sparce in the description of my

question, but a couple of you hit it and I know that the Dev Test

requires metering. I've sent my meter off for calibration, so when

it gets back I'll continue with the Personal Film Speed Test and

then on to the Development time test.

 

I have several other questions related to the Personal Speed

Test, but I'll post them under another topic.

 

Thanks,

David

[m0002a]

Picker says make a Zone VIII negative as part of his methodology for the film development time test. How you get a Zone VIII negative is not that important to his methodology.

 

In Newsletter 47, he suggests using a white card in full sun and placing it on Zone VIII, presumably by metering the white card and closing down 2 stops (he doesn�t specifically say). This is the same as metering a gray card (Zone V) and opening up 3 stops. Pickers newsletters, books, etc. are not always consistent on such points, and in theory both methods should yield the same results.

 

The advantage of the gray card is that meters are seldom linear over their entire range (even after calibration), especially at the extremes of reflected light. I could find a Picker quote to substantiate this, but I don�t have time. Many people don�t have a gray card, but everyone has a white surface that can readily be used, but my advice is if you don�t have gray card, get one.

[jorge_gasteazoro4]

<i>he suggests using a white card in full sun and placing it on Zone VIII, presumably by metering the white card and closing down 2 stops (he doesn�t specifically say). This is the same as metering a gray card (Zone V) and opening up 3 stops.</i><p>

That is incorrect, if you meter a white card, the meter tries to put that card on Zone V, if you then close 2 more stops you are then placing the white card on zone III. So it is <b>not</b> the same!

[m0002a]

You are correct Jorge. What Picker said in Newsletter 47 was to make a negative of a white card by �placing the reading on Zone VIII." Using a spot meter with a Zone VI (brand) dial installed, this would be done by getting the EV reading from the meter and turning the dial until the meter is in line with Zone VIII indicator.

 

What I meant to say about Picker�s method was to �place� the pure white card on Zone X (pure white of paper base) and then close down two stops to get Zone VIII. Of course some white cards are actually closer to Zone IX unless they are impregnated with optical brighteners. Upon reflection, it was a poor choose of words on my part, even if I had explained it as above. In the �Fine Print� Picker explains that to get a Zone VIII negative, take a meter reading of a white card and open up three stops.

 

To be honest, I am not sure whether using a gray card or a white card is more accurate, even though they should theoretically be the same. I think each has advantages depending on the specific strengths and weaknesses of a particular meter. Maybe it would be best to actually make a Zone VIII card.

[jorge_gasteazoro4]

Mark I actually agree with you that the best would be to use a gray card. Like you said meters are not linear in deviation so it would be better to meter for the Zone they are designed for, no?

In any case your second post does make more sense, specially if you are using one of those Pentax meters with the zone dial. Never could figure out what the advantage of this is, for such a simple task, but what the hey people seem to like them.