8mm Film to DVD transfer (Do it yourself)

[david_joe]

always try and do it yourself.

research the internet and take your time.

the Retired Film Guys

[don_mckinley]

The point of this forum is to 'do it yourself' but the point that comes up again and again here is that why reinvent the wheel people. Sure, have a go, but ruin your film in the process with a crappy old projector like I did, spend a small fortune and immense time and dire frustration with unsatisfactory results. Do your research on companies, don't just take there word for it on websites, spend a few bucks on a sample transfer, compare the results of what you are getting, with that, you will get a feel for not only quality of transfer, but quality of customer service, turn around time etc, then work a deal, if you have quantity, ask for discounts, free copies etc.

 

Sure, some people have to mail, but with fedex/ups, it's old school ignorance to think that technology & tracking capabilities haven't far surpassed risk. The odds are far greater of your car blowing up on the way to the UPS store than them losing it. You either mail them or let them rot in the closet.

 

As for the lengthy reply of 'Philip' above, that shows passion and a belief in what he and his company achieves, not 'fly by night' Sure, companies come and go, do your research before you use any company. We all have passion, passion for preserving our memories and getting the best quality and service.

[kelly_flanigan1]

Whether its done "in house' or "do it yourself" one has to deal with rotten dried out film splices. Lets say you have a "Europe Trip" from 1963 shot with regular 8mm; the complete movie might be on a 500ft reel; the work of say 2 dozen or more rolls shots; with 50% + editing. Its easy to have 100 splices; the bulk of the splices done in 1963/4. The darn movie might have last been shown/projected in the 1970's or 1980's. Now Mom and Dad pass away and the kids want the "Europe Trip" vacation movie they all thought was boring on a DVD. The mvie reels might have never been projected for several decades, have been stored in the basement in a shoebox, the box being wet once when the sump pump failed. The "in house' or "do it yourself" convertor has to deal with a long movie that might be stuck together, that every 5th splice fails. The project then evolves into converting a dozen or two segments.:) A real poor movie reel to convert is going to take more time. DIY for conversions is over 1/2 century old; its in the "how to" collumns in Pop Photo back in the 1950's. Then folks were often converting to another film format; later in the late 1970's converting to Beta tapes evolved; then VHS tape; now its to a DVD.

[ken_ingersoll]

I'm DIY-ing it and having something like results. I have several large reels of Regular 8 and Super 8 that I've

managed to collect over the years. I found them at thrift stores and yard sales and have no idea who the people

in the films are, but they made some great films! So, with a 2400 optical dpi flatbed transparency scanner, vcr

parts, a PC dedicated to the task, and automation software, I present the following:

 

http://youtube.com/watch?v=s3YsPZGC1-U

 

Automating image processing tasks can be challenging. I'm trying to teach my computer to find the sprocket holes

and grab each frame. About 8000 in a 50 foot reel. A very slow, painful process, but it seems to work. A

vacation at Gitmo might be more fun.<div>[ATTACH=full]281578[/ATTACH]</div>

[ken_ingersoll]

I've updated the link to view my sample:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ij0Bh18kDkM

 

Just abit of semi-perfectionist tweaking.

[d_j_gibbs]

That was a lot of fun to watch, Ken!! I don't understand how you did it, but it's very interesting. Are you saying that you scanned the film frame by frame, then used some sort of animation software to make it play again? Cool. I have a scanner that can do that, but it seems to me that it would be a very, very long process!

 

I started a VHS, slides, and photos to DVD business about 2 years ago. I'm constantly being asked if I put 8mm or Super 8 on DVD. (No one in my area does it, and, sorry, but people just don't want to send their films out by mail or carrier. Too many things can and have happened to them.)

 

As a result, I decided to bite the bullet and add that service. Since I've actually never done it (but have a lot of other experience with film and with transferring other things to DVD, I have been doing a lot of research on what method I should use, the costs, the ease of transfer, etc.

 

I've finally decided to go with one of the moviestuff's machine. I'll probably start with the less expensive and as my business grows, I'll upgrade as Eugene Gekhter, the originator of this thread, has done. The reason I've decided to go with moviestuff is because I've read a lot of forums with people talking to each other about the machines and I've never read or heard one negative thing about his machines (except that you have to wait a while to get one)... also, from what I read, he is very supportive and very nice--even walks people through repairs (his machines can be repaired with parts at radio shack) and helps people learn how to use the machines....I can use that sort of support starting out. I'm really excited about providing this service in my area and learning how to do this....and of course, my family has its own movies from the 60s that need to be saved, so my first "batch" while I learn will be ours....then for Christmas Gifts to everyone, I'll be making the DVDs!

 

I wouldn't recommend someone who is just going to DIY their own films to spend a lot of money on a moviestuff machine, because they are expensive, but I think that for a small business such as mine, they are an excellent product with excellent support...in any case after I get mine, I'll let you all know how it goes.

[laura_harvey]

For DJ Gibbs. I am curious if you are happy with your decision to buy moviestuff's machine. I am thinking about it. Want to check with you. Appreicate your reply.

[bryan_cass]

<p>I just wrote a short 'how to' article on how I transferred my 8mm to DVD. But I sent it out to have it done -- the DIY route was too expensive and not as good quality as I wanted.</p>

<p>http://www.ehow.com/how_4705008_transfer-mm-dvd.html</p>

<p>Bryan</p>

[ken_ingersoll]

<p>Hi guys, just thought I'd post an update on my progress making frame-by frame digital transfers of 8mm movies using a flatbed scanner and home computer. I'm moving up to Hi Def, which seems like overkill since 8mm film comes nowhere close to HD resolution, but that's the hot thing these days. It's still a slow process, but it works. Total investment: maybe a couple hundred bucks, plus 50 cents.</p>

<p>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nE8KXvTu-0</p>

<p>Investors, anyone?</p>

[sonja_g]

<p>I enjoy reading your posts. I find them informative and educational. I'm taking on a project of transferring 8mm & super 8mm, this is a first for me. Any recommendations on dual film editors, any I should stay away from? Also, where is the best place to purchase Film Guard?<br>

Many thanks.</p>

[sonja_g]

<p>Perhaps I wasn't clear enough in my post when I asked for recommendations on dual film editors. I am NOT looking for someone to do the work for me because as I stated, "I'm taking on the project of transfering ..." I'm asking for recommendations for a machine called a, DUAL FILM EDITOR that is used for editoring 8mm and super 8mm. To reiterate, I am NOT looking for a company or individual to transfer my film, I'm asking for recommendations and suggestions on how, " I can personally transfer the film."<br>

Thank you.</p>

 

[d_j_gibbs]

<p>Go to <a href="http://www.moviestuff.tv">http://www.moviestuff.tv</a> They sell some fantastic equipment at reasonable prices. I bought their Cinemate. I've been extremely busy with other aspects of my business, but I will be adding 8mm and super8 transfers to DVD services by the end of the month to my DVD business. The Cinemate does both for me, and the results are "shake free" and quite clean and remarkable. I think that the Cinemate will give you the best bang for you buck--and you might even end up with a little "cottage business"on the side for extra money!</p>

[joshroot]

<p>Howdy everyone,</p>

<p>The photo.net forums are not to be used as some sort of "free advertising" location for you to push your business. I hav egone through this thread and deleted all of the ads and all the suggestions that came from users who just "happened" to only have one post to their name on photo.net and that post just "happened" to be suggesting somewhere to spend your money.</p>

<p>Suggestions of professional services from active members are welcome. Word of mouth is the best way to find good service providers. But using the forums for advertising is a violation of the site's rules and is an annoying insult to the site's members.</p>

[tammy_rea]

<p>I have found that using my dry erase board at a distance and slight angle higher than my projector works amazing. I use my JVC Everio GZ-MG255U hard disc camcorder with a shutter setting of 1/15 to capture the home movies with firewire to my computer's hard drive and my projector is angled up very little the results have been nice rich color, and a really nice clear picture.</p>

<p> </p>

[phil_lewis1]

<p >After many attempts at transferring 8mm film to digital media and not being quite satisfied with the results, I believe I have hit on the most cost effective manner to perform what is essentially a frame-by frame transfer, and it is surprisingly simple. I purchased a dual Super8mm/8mm projector on ebay which is capable of projecting in a “step” mode (2 frames per second). My particular model is a Bell&Howell 471A but there are a lot of different projectors out there which will do the same. I paid $70. I then purchased a stop motion software package (StopMotion Maker HDMI) which is capable of time lapse capture from a firewire device and hooked my Panasonic PGVS-120 camcorder to my PC. I removed the tape cassette and plug in the camera to AC which makes the camera work similar to a web cam. </p>

<p > </p>

<p >If you project the film onto a white surface at 2 fps and then activate the time lapse capture at 500 msec (0.5 sec), the stop motion software captures one digital frame for each frame projected. The stop-motion software reassembles the captured frames into an AVI motion picture and, Voila- you have a frame by frame transfer.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >There are some limitations in that the AVI format used by my software limits the AVI file size to 2GB which translates to roughly 2000 frames at NTSC resolution. This means you will have 3-4 separate AVI files for each 50 foot roll of 8mm film, and the transfer does take time and patience. However, once the AVI files are edited and converted to MPEG in your favorite editing software, the results are noticeably superior to a camcorder capture of the film running at normal speed. Also, having many small AVI files to work with can be an advantage in some editing software packages when it comes to applying filters and enhancements.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Best of all, if you have the hard disk space, you can maintain the uncompressed AVI files so that is you ever need to re-edit the films for a new DVD presentation you will not be working with a compressed MPEG file.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Anyway, it works well for me. And it only cost $140 for the projector and the stop-motion software (plus a lot of free time on several weekends)</p>

[joshroot]

<p>Phil, that is essentially what the fancy pants telecine machines do. Only for a lot more money (and in better quality most likely).</p>

[patrick_mont]

<p>Dwayne's photo will transfer 8mm and Super 8 to DVD for $9.00 for a 50 foot roll.</p>

[ric_crawford]

<p>My plan was to project onto a smooth white surface, project the film onto it. Then place a digital video camera in front of the projector, frame in and focus on the projected image. And capture directly to hard drive with firewire. I use a Panasonic PVGS-65 with Sony Vegas 6 software. My B&H projector was re-worked to sync with the video. I don't have a line running through it but the image pulses. Except for that last bit, the procedure that many others have followed works. Any idea why the pulse? </p>

 

[jamie_brown7]

<p>In the DIY category, see the link below for an interesting article where the author uses a flatbed scanner to capture 7.7" of film at a pass and then stitches them back together with a computer. He says it takes 2 hours to process a 150' roll of film.<br>

He also includes some good background information on the process of digitizing old film.<br>

http://www.linuxjournal.com/article/10373</p>

[shela_martin]

<p>Why not transfer from VHS to blank dvd with dvd recorder?</p>

[d_j_gibbs]

<p>We're talking about 8mm FILM that runs through a projector. Not VHS tapes.</p>

[shela_martin]

<p>When you say film do you mean what is called Hi-8 that is used in camcorders? If not, does anyone know the best way to transfer 8 mm (Hi8) to a dvd other than transferred to a video and then to a dvd. I'd do that but because of the one transfer it will lose some of it's quality. Any way you to do it directly from the camcorder/hi 8mm film to a dvd or directly to a computer where I can then burn it?</p>

[d_j_gibbs]

<p>No--we are talking about the old film that ran through a projector--8mm and super8. Through a projector--like this:<br>

http://www.bolexcollector.com/images/projectors/185_1.jpg<br>

There are several ways to transfer Hi-8. I have a Sony multi-function DVD recorder. I simply hook up the Hi-8 camcorder (or any other camcorder or camera) to it and play the tape I want recorded and the DVD recorder does the rest. This machine has made my business more money than anything else I've done so far because it is so easy and does such a great job. I use printable discs so I can print images onto the DVDs. The machine I use is this:<br>

http://dvdvideoburner.com/images/sony-vrdmc5-dvdirect-dvd-recorder.jpg</p>

 

[patrick_mcsherry]

<p>I have been experimenting with copying 16mm films to DVD using my sony handicam DVD108 camcorder. The challenge I have had may be the "flicker"mentioned elsewhere in this forum. The projected image is fine. When recorded with the camcorder I get periodic "blackouts." If I adjust the film speed, I can minimize the speed at which these occur to some extent, but I cannot get rid of them. I am supposing that these are the result of some sort of pattern based on the projection speed and the camcorder recording speed. I can only adjust the projection speed so much...or the image begins to look like a Keystone Cops movie (which, hey, I enjoy but perhaps is not a good way of archiving the rare family footage). My questions are:<br>

1. Is this the "flicker" that has been mentioned?<br>

2. Is there a camcorder option that allows for the speed to be adjusted?<br>

3. Is this a problem with all projectors, or is my projector the problem?<br>

I would love to be able to send the films out to be done. There are no funds available to do that.</p>

[eric_brown3]

<p>Thanks for the years of wonderful info in this thread!<br>

As to the 'flicker question', it may be the shutter speed setting on your camera that's to blame. This from the Cinemate 8mm site;<br>

<strong>Your camera must have the ability to lock the shutter speed to 1/60th of a second for NTSC or 1/50th of a second for PAL or you will get flicker.</strong> </p>